Another Lansky thread

[Danny Linguini]

I just pulled the trigger on a Lansky standard diamond kit. I’m thinking maybe I’m not as good at free-handing as I’d like to think I am, and I want something that will keep my modest collection of folders and a few others functionally sharp. I’ve got steels ranging from 8Cr13MoV to Magnacut and a few CPM’s in between, so I figured diamond hones should cover everything. The Lansky system seems to get good reviews, and looks to handle smaller blades better than the Worksharp Precision Adjust, which I was also considering. I’m not looking to re-profile anything, just keep them all to as close to factory-sharp as I can get them, as they have all been sufficiently sharp for me right out of the box (except for one Chinese cheapie). Everything I’ve read here and there says the Lansky fine diamond hone should do just that, but I did add an ultra fine hone to the order anyway, just in case. I don’t plan on using the coarse hone unless somebody uses one of my knives to chop up bricks; otherwise, I’m not what you’d call a heavy user, so I don’t usually let my blades get bad enough to need more than a touch-up.

My biggest question now is, considering I want to stick as close to the factory edges as possible, how do I ensure that I’ve got the correct angle for each blade? I don’t want to waste time removing material that’s nowhere near the edge, but neither do I want to gack up the edge by going too obtuse. Part of my concern is that this particular system is very limited in its angle options at 17, 20, 25 and 30 degrees, and no in-between. My thought is, the first time I put a blade in the clamp, do the sharpie thing on the edge, and start at the lowest angle with the ultra-fine hone, just to see where it’s touching, and work my way up until it’s preferably cleaning off the entire edge bevel. Then depending on how good or bad the knife is cutting, start hitting it from there with either the medium or the fine hone. I do know I need to keep the pressure very light, so I’ll probably start by just using the weight of the hones themselves until I get a feel for how much material is being removed.

Any other suggestions for the first attempt(s) to minimize (eliminate) any risk of borking up my blades?

 

[000Robert]

With diamond stones I just use enough force to keep the stones flat against the blade. But I use Wicked Edge stones and know nothing about Lansky stones.

 

[Ajack60]

Tape the blade, it will hold better in the clamp. Try to put the clamp in the middle of the blade favoring the tip end. Make sure the clamp is perpendicular to the edge of the blade, on some knives, the clamp will be crooked to the spine. During the sharpening process, a burr should form on the edge assuring you’ve reached the apex of the edge. Some steels are easier to feel, that’s where the ultra fine stone comes in handy. You can reduce the wire edge with the ultra fine and final removal with a leather strop.
You have a little wiggle room on the limited angle choices. Either keep the guide rod on the top or bottom of the angle slot. It will make a degree of difference when trying to hit the whole edge.

 

[cudgee]

Look at as many videos as you can about the system, and write down all the useful tips, but i implore you, be patient and take your time, if you are impatient it will do your head in. Especially in the learning phase, every system, and i mean every system has it's flaws, but you must have patience. And practice, practice is so important, good luck with your new system.

 

[kreisler]

Part of my concern is that this particular system is very limited in its angle options at 17, 20, 25 and 30 degrees, and no in-between. My thought is, the first time I put

you haven't started testing the system on a cheap knife yet?
I just watched some youtube comedy vid and while doing so sharpened a small concave blade like this one freehand in my lap:

nobody would sharpen such a small concave blade (very common in kitchens) on a lansky. so yes, lansky system is very limited. but helps you learn the principles of sharpening, including stropping.

 

[UncleBoots]

My thought is, the first time I put a blade in the clamp, do the sharpie thing on the edge, and start at the lowest angle with the ultra-fine hone, just to see where it’s touching, and work my way up until it’s preferably cleaning off the entire edge bevel.

This is a good plan, and strongly resembles what I do, to get my guided sharpener stones properly angled, although I just use one stone. If I'm removing sharpie from the entire bevel, or from top and bottom, or from the center, then I know I've got the angle.

 

[toker]

My biggest question now is, considering I want to stick as close to the factory edges as possible, how do I ensure that I’ve got the correct angle for each blade? I don’t want to waste time removing material that’s nowhere near the edge, but neither do I want to gack up the edge by going too obtuse. Part of my concern is that this particular system is very limited in its angle options at 17, 20, 25 and 30 degrees, and no in-between. My thought is, the first time I put a blade in the clamp, do the sharpie thing on the edge, and start at the lowest angle with the ultra-fine hone, just to see where it’s touching, and work my way up until it’s preferably cleaning off the entire edge bevel. Then depending on how good or bad the knife is cutting, start hitting it from there with either the medium or the fine hone. I do know I need to keep the pressure very light, so I’ll probably start by just using the weight of the hones themselves until I get a feel for how much material is being removed.

That's the method I would have suggested. I used the Lansky for a few years, but as I bought more and more knives, I realized how limiting those fixed angles were. I couldn't match the original angle, so I was either taking off too much metal or I was sharpening an angle that was higher than the factory angle. I wasn't a fan of the factory stones either.

I'm also a Wicked Edge convert.