another noob question. Handles

Y

yoippari

Joined
May 8, 2004
Messages
341
I realize that this is probably more of a personal preferance but what does horn have that wood doesn't? pros/cons of each.
-Jacob
 
On a more serious note, both materials are very nice--attractive, comfortable, and durable as well. Horn probably holds up better in wet environments, and wood is probably a bit better in drier environments. However, excessive heat and low humidity can cause handle cracks in both materials.

In my opinion, horn generally looks better out of the box. Wood, on the other hand, takes a bit of work. The results, however, are well worth the effort. If you ask nicely, hopefully Ferguson will post some pics of his tru-oil handles to show what I am talking about.

As far as repairs, both types of handles can be repaired with epoxy and\or superglue.

--Josh
 
Either pick by the look
or
ignore the handle material
and instead pick the blade you like
based on the blade itself & maybe grip shape.


That said,
all else -equal-
I'd pick wood.
 
I'll add that wood dents eaisier and deeper than horn.

On the the other side, it is said that dents can be steamed out of wood (though I've not done it), and many people are more comfortable finishing wood, which is good, because the wood handles are not as polished as the horn out of the box. But with a little care, either can be reshaped if desired and polished with just hand tools, elbow grease, sandpaper and the appropriate dressings.

Then there is the appearance, which is a matter of preference again. Wood has a lot more variability to show attractive grain, and the wood that the Kamis use for handles can be quite handsome as wood goes, and often exceptional. Handles made of the later are often referred to as "glow in the dark". When properly finished, they can hold their own against the exotic woods favored by woodworkers or custom knife-makers IMO.
 
I ment to say, "what does horn have that wood doesn't? and visa-versa?" So far its looking like wood is easier to maintain, but more work at first. Other than that is is preference.
 
You can make wood shiny. :)
KobraHandleSmall.jpg

You can make horn shiny. :)
DSCN0470.jpg


The horn the Kamis are getting from India right now is kind of green. It will probably shrink some with time after you receive the khukuri. This makes the brass buttcap stick up above the surface. You'll have to file the excess brass away, a 10 minute job. A thin gap may appear between the end of the handle and the buttcap. This can be fixed with super glue.

I love the feel of horn in the hand. I love the feel of a wooden handle too. Kind of just personal preference.

Steve
 
Hi Richard,
Basic method is HERE.

Or you can search the forum for woodchuck and find more and better methods.

Steve
 
is about it. They are both excellent materials for handles. I do prefer horn meself, but most of my current HI pieces are horn handled.

Keith
 
DKP said:
I prefer horn, because it seems to stick to your hand......like glue.
Click to expand...

Yes... For some horn seems to stick to your hand when it's slightly damp or wet. Others say it slips. They tend to stick in my hand so it's a good thing. I reckon you'll have to try one in horn and one in wood to find out for sure.

Besides, I need all the "mojo" I can get. Though I'm not sure what "mojo" is, I figure it can't hurt to have more.

I have both types and don't mind either type.
 
yoippari said:
wood ......... more work at first.
Click to expand...
Only if you want to bring out the beauty.
For a working khuk you don't -need- to do anything.
 
Love the looks of horn, hate the cracks. When you get a good piece (like on my newest, dearly departed to a better home BDC), it's awesome. Ohio seems better suited to wood, so most of mine are.
 
Is there a resource on good types of wood for handles? I have been itching to try a villager handle replacement, and have seen some beautiful burled maple that I think would look cool, but I don't know much about wood strengths, etc.
 
bilestoad said:
Ferguson, how DO you get the horn handles to shine like that?
Click to expand...

I sand with the silicon carbide wet-or-dry sand paper starting with 400,600,1000 grit. Then I buff on a muslin buffing wheel on my grinder with red rouge, or "Scratchless Pink" buffing compounds. If you don't have a buffer, you could continue with the sandpaper in 1500 and 2000 grit, using water or hooflex as a lubricant to keep the sandpaper from loading up with dust. Then take a rag, shoeshine style with a little red rouge on it and buff it by hand.

If you use a buffer, be careful! It's the most dangerous power tool in the shop, as it can grab the workpiece and throw it with considrable force. Nothing more disconcerting than a 15-20" khukuri at 100 miles per hour flying around randomly!

You can also buy muslin buffing wheels mounted on an arbor that you can chuck in an electric drill. This should work pretty well if you can clamp the khuk to a table, or put it in a vice.

Steve
 
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