Another question for Leatherman.... Care of Leather Sheaths?

[Guyon]

Started to just email Dwayne this one, but thought some here might could chime in or even benefit from tips/advice.

In the past, I have used Sno-Seal on some of my leather items--a few inexpensive sheaths and a leather rifle sling. The line on this product from its maker is that the beeswax finish holds up well and that it doesn't break down leather like mink oil or other products made from animal fat. Seems to give leather some moisture while also protecting it from the elements. It does, however, darken leather a bit.

So here are my questions...

With a quality leather sheath, do you do anything besides keep it clean and dry?
Does Sno-Seal do any good for a sheath in terms of waterproofing?
Does Sno-Seal do any harm to a sheath?
If I need to waterproof, is there some other product that I might consider?

 

[safong]

I've used Nikwax on my hiking boots and my sheaths and it's worked great so far. Besides keeping it clean and conditioned, I don't think there's not much else you can do to maintain your leather. In fact, I kinda like that "worked" look.

 

[leatherman]

Hey Guyon, Great questions! So far as I have been able to find out from Sno-Seal is its good stuff, and wont soften the leather so much that its floppy. Mink oil is an old time leather preservative, but like you said it can be rather invasive (and tasty to the family dog ) not only does it over soften the leather but it also can leave behind that nasty white residue that I seem to see on half the old sheaths and holsters at gun shows.

Some other good ones I have found over the years are: Aussie Leather Conditioner by Fiebings, gooey stuff, but a little goes a long way, and it smells good too. Its base is beeswax like Sno Seal. Another Fiebings product is Leather Balm with Atom Wax, its a thin watery product that penetrates well and leaves a nice warm shine. Its what is on 90% of the sheaths I put out there. I like it because its light, doesnt leave behind a bad residue, and its open to any other treatment that the new owner sees fit, be it Aussie Conditioner, Sno Seal, etc.

I'd avoid most Neatsfoot oils as most out there have petroleum bases, theres only a few out there that are pure. The neatsfoot oil at wal mart and such are highly volital (flamable) and really eat up a sheath in short order, and they smell like Turps. :barf:

There are some good conditioners and preservatives available at good boot/shoe shops. Simply reading the can will tell the tale about them. Some are made to soften the leather for footwear but will normally state it clearly, those are to be avoided as well. The key words for weatherproofing are beeswax, and natural oils and preservatives.

As far as the darkening, they all seem to do it to a point, the deeper a treatment penetrates the darker the result. the Atom Wax doesnt darken too awful much, but it does leave a nicer finish in a nice warm shine where the Aussie conditioner will leave an almost satin finish.

I'll check the ingredients on my Aussie Conditioner and Leather Balm and get back here with the listings. but none of them seem to harm the leather in the long run, so far all mentioned treatments are good stuff. Even the venerable saddle soap is good stuff, all be it rather messy, but not as good at repelling water as the aformentioned stuff.

Hope this helps a little. Any other questions, suggestions, comments, would be much appreciated.

 

[leatherman]

I've used Nikwax on my hiking boots and my sheaths and it's worked great so far. Besides keeping it clean and conditioned, I don't think there's not much else you can do to maintain your leather. In fact, I kinda like that "worked" look.

Nikwax, cool! I'll have to look that one up next time I'm out and about! thanks!

 

[Guyon]

I've used Nikwax on my hiking boots and my sheaths and it's worked great so far. Besides keeping it clean and conditioned, I don't think there's not much else you can do to maintain your leather. In fact, I kinda like that "worked" look.

I've used Nikwax on hiking boots as well. Works nicely for repelling water, but does have to be reapplied every so often. Both pair of my boots need a new coat right now, in fact. Nikwax darkens the leather slightly too--just not as much as the Sno-Seal though.

 

[Guyon]

Hey Guyon, Great questions! So far as I have been able to find out from Sno-Seal is its good stuff, and wont soften the leather so much that its floppy. Mink oil is an old time leather preservative, but like you said it can be rather invasive (and tasty to the family dog ) not only does it over soften the leather but it also can leave behind that nasty white residue that I seem to see on half the old sheaths and holsters at gun shows.

Some other good ones I have found over the years are: Aussie Leather Conditioner by Fiebings, gooey stuff, but a little goes a long way, and it smells good too. Its base is beeswax like Sno Seal. Another Fiebings product is Leather Balm with Atom Wax, its a thin watery product that penetrates well and leaves a nice warm shine. Its what is on 90% of the sheaths I put out there. I like it because its light, doesnt leave behind a bad residue, and its open to any other treatment that the new owner sees fit, be it Aussie Conditioner, Sno Seal, etc.

I'd avoid most Neatsfoot oils as most out there have petroleum bases, theres only a few out there that are pure. The neatsfoot oil at wal mart and such are highly volital (flamable) and really eat up a sheath in short order, and they smell like Turps. :barf:

There are some good conditioners and preservatives available at good boot/shoe shops. Simply reading the can will tell the tale about them. Some are made to soften the leather for footwear but will normally state it clearly, those are to be avoided as well. The key words for weatherproofing are beeswax, and natural oils and preservatives.

As far as the darkening, they all seem to do it to a point, the deeper a treatment penetrates the darker the result. the Atom Wax doesnt darken too awful much, but it does leave a nicer finish in a nice warm shine where the Aussie conditioner will leave an almost satin finish.

I'll check the ingredients on my Aussie Conditioner and Leather Balm and get back here with the listings. but none of them seem to harm the leather in the long run, so far all mentioned treatments are good stuff. Even the venerable saddle soap is good stuff, all be it rather messy, but not as good at repelling water as the aformentioned stuff.

Hope this helps a little. Any other questions, suggestions, comments, would be much appreciated.

Great information and list of products. Thanks!

I wondered if you put some sort of conditioner on them before they went out the door.

 

[safong]

Guyon, you're right about the need for re-application with Nikwax. I spent a month walking through 4 feet of snow in Japan and by the third week of use, water was getting through my boots. But I actually find that performance pretty remarkable, and I'm sure the stuff would last longer on a sheath since you have less bending of the leather.

 

[senorcosas]

Hey Leatherman,

What about sheaths with reptile skin inlays? I just got the Infi Coot with your rattlesnake inlay sheath in the mail. The sheath is in great shape overall, but the snakeskin inlay seems really dry (some of the rattlesnake scales are beginning the curl up). Can I use one of the products you recommended to condition the snakeskins inlay?

 

[gk4ever]

Hey Leatherman,

What about sheaths with reptile skin inlays? I just got the Infi Coot with your rattlesnake inlay sheath in the mail. The sheath is in great shape overall, but the snakeskin inlay seems really dry (some of the rattlesnake scales are beginning the curl up). Can I use one of the products you recommended to condition the snakeskins inlay?

I have been wondering the exact same thing. What should be used to condition and preserve the snakeskin?

When I upgrade my membership, I will be sure to post a picture of the sheath - it is a work of art!

Gene

 

[Guyon]

When I upgrade my membership, I will be sure to post a picture of the sheath - it is a work of art!

Just an aside.... While I advocate supporting BF (eg. my sig line), I'm not sure you have to have an upgraded membership to be able to link to pics that are hosted on other sites like Photobucket.

As for the snakeskin, I wonder if a cowboy boot store could provide some info about conditioning. Any of you wear snakeskin boots?

 

[Rat Finkenstein]

what about Renaissance Wax? I have a jar coming in the mail.

 

[leatherman]

Just an aside.... While I advocate supporting BF (eg. my sig line), I'm not sure you have to have an upgraded membership to be able to link to pics that are hosted on other sites like Photobucket.

As for the snakeskin, I wonder if a cowboy boot store could provide some info about conditioning. Any of you wear snakeskin boots?

Bingo! The boot and shoe stores will have the best stuff for reptile skins, they have special needs requiring different oils to keep em looking good. But yours senorcosas is sealed with a special stuff so it wont gather moisture in the scales, if I remember the sheath right. But bring it with you next time we meet and I'll take a look at it, the curling iirc was there to begin with. The scales on that one were very close to the belly and they were huge. btw, project "blood red" is coming out sweet! and almost done!

 

[leatherman]

what about Renaissance Wax? I have a jar coming in the mail.

Not sure about Ren Wax, I've heard it used on hard substrates, but not on soft materials. I'd have to take a peek at the ingredients.......

 

[Rat Finkenstein]

Not sure about Ren Wax, I've heard it used on hard substrates, but not on soft materials. I'd have to take a peek at the ingredients.......

this link mentions some uses

SAFE to protect all these Materials:
Wood; raw & finished. Leather, Parchment & Paper. Metal; Silver, Silverplate, Gold, Copper & Copper Alloys (Bronze, Brass, Tin, Zinc, German Silver, Nickel), Lead & Pewter, Iron & Iron Alloys, Tin & Tin Alloys. Damascus; Stone, Marble, Onyx, Limestone, Granite, Brick, Tile, Terrazzo, Obsidian, Alabaster; Gems, Glass, Porcelain, Holloware, Bone, Ivory, Horn, Shell & Mother-of-Pearl, Gutta Percha, Dammars; Gilding & Gold Leaf, Patinas. Enamel, Lacquer, Japanning, Cloute, Pose d'Or, Pique Point, Varnish, Marbleizing, Stains & Artificial Graining. Plastics, Formicas, Paints, Polyvinyl Acetates, Esters of Polymethyacrylic, Polycyclohexanones, Fiberglas Epoxy Resins, and much more!

Seems like it might be ok, I can't find a list of ingredients.

Polycyclohexanones

- say that ten times fast

 

[Vikaden]

Here is the link to the Ren Wax MSDS http://talasonline.com/photos/msds/Renaissance_wax_MSDS.pdf

 

[idahoskunk]

try this, i use it on my saddle and sheaths, won't soften

http://www.lexol.com/

 

[wetdog1911]

Glycerin, pure, and just a little,goes a long way on reptile skins.

For plain leather, I use a beeswax/mink oil mix, or Montana Pitch Blend.

Rob

 

[Rat Finkenstein]

Renwax, according to the literature that comes with it, is excellent for shoes and leather upholstery. they basically say is it good for everything, even coating archival photographs. It is a hard dry film that protects and waterproofs whatever you use it on. It is also acid free. I might try it on some leather scraps and see what it does. sounds like it might be the shiznit.:thumbup: