Another rookie mistake on custom handles

tsavickas36

tsavickas36

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Jan 14, 2025
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Hello everyone up to this point I have used single material handles either G10 or stabilized wood. I decided I wanted to start making some cool multi material handle scales.

I started with burled maple, copper spacer, epoxy scale, copper spacer, then burled maple again.

I tried my standard Starbond 5 minute epoxy to start for glueing but when I tried to sand down the handle flat the epoxy let loose.

I tried Starbond Medium CA glue based on another knifemaker's recommendation with the same result.

Is the copper generating too much heat while sanding? I see others use copper, brass and stainless and seem to make it work so I am sure I am doing something incorrectly.

Any advice is always appreciated.
 
Yes, metals will conduct heat very well. I try to go with slow belt speeds and fresh sharp belts.
 
On a metal/wood assembly (especially copper) it may be best to shape with a file or rasp and then switch to paper and a backer. If using a grinder, run it at a very slow speed, use fresh belts, and let cool often.
 
tsavickas36 said:
Hello everyone up to this point I have used single material handles either G10 or stabilized wood. I decided I wanted to start making some cool multi material handle scales.

I started with burled maple, copper spacer, epoxy scale, copper spacer, then burled maple again.

I tried my standard Starbond 5 minute epoxy to start for glueing but when I tried to sand down the handle flat the epoxy let loose.

I tried Starbond Medium CA glue based on another knifemaker's recommendation with the same result.

Is the copper generating too much heat while sanding? I see others use copper, brass and stainless and seem to make it work so I am sure I am doing something incorrectly.

Any advice is always appreciated.
Click to expand...
Just an added tip for glued/epoxied joints in general: no residue! Make sure to clean surfaces (I prefer acetone or isopropyl alcohol) and also make sure that the surfaces are a little scuffed. This gives the adhesive a place to go. Hope that helps!

John
 
I work with a bit of copper and it gets hot very fast and does not grind well. As mentioned use a file to rough shape, it will actually go faster and easier than a belt sander.

Also make sure everything is next level clean before glue-up. I wouldn't mess around with anything other than a good slow cure epoxy too, something like G-flex is the way to go. You can use the 5 minute or super glue too though, if you need to go that way just let it cure overnight. I have done epoxy soaked fabric where I had to hold something in place with a dot of super glue first... even if you use accelerator you will see off gassing through the epoxy if you do not wait a day or two for it to cure first.
 
Awesome thank you all. I generally acetone everything prior to any glueing but will let them cure longer. I thought with the accelerator I could get away with it. I will also scuff better to try and get some grab in the copper.

Hope it works this time or I will revert back to g10.
 
tsavickas36 said:
Awesome thank you all. I generally acetone everything prior to any glueing but will let them cure longer. I thought with the accelerator I could get away with it. I will also scuff better to try and get some grab in the copper.

Hope it works this time or I will revert back to g10.
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G10 Needs to be scuffed up too.
 
I did not add that copper is one of the hardest metals to get glue to stick to. It has to be coarse sanded (100 grit) immediately before the glue is applied for any hope of a good bond.
 
You can build up quite a bit of heat just using a file.
Also, using a coarse rasp can grab and misshape the copper if you aren't careful.
 
I use JB Weld and JB Kwik Weld when I had to work with copper since those had a higher temp rating, but it was still a PITA! Really rough up the copper a lot and work super slow, dunk in water or use a mister constantly and with light pressure. I don't use metal spacers unless I absolutely need to.
 
Taz said:
I use JB Weld and JB Kwik Weld when I had to work with copper since those had a higher temp rating, but it was still a PITA! Really rough up the copper a lot and work super slow, dunk in water or use a mister constantly and with light pressure. I don't use metal spacers unless I absolutely need to.
Click to expand...
I am thinking I need to start with some G10 spacers and get wet behind the ears. Sounds like i picked the hardest material to work with as a starting point.
 
Yeah, I did an acrylic handle with copper liners before...First attempt delammed the handle and melted the acrylic. 2nd one, I added in a spacer between the copper and acrylic and slowed the grinder WAY down and kept everything wet while grinding it. Copper gets hot quick even using a hacksaw to cut it!
 
tsavickas36 said:
I am interested to see if you have some pictures as a reference on running alignment pins through the thin side of scale material.
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I thought you meant a hidden tang.
But on full tangs I also use alignment pins trough the tang. I shape the scales first, then epoxy them.
They only have to go app. 1/16" or less in to the scale.
I don't have any pics at hand
 
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