Another sharpening question for yous guys...

Kaizen1 · Oct 21, 2006

I have several knives so far and I can all of them shaving sharp on the Sharpmaker. The one knife I keep having trouble with is my Camillus Heat. It's the only knife I have in AUS8. I'm not sure what I may be doing wrong, but I I don't seem to have any issues with any of my other knives. Hell, I was bored once and took a cheapo kitchen knife and made it shave.

I've tried sharpening it at both angles. First I sharpened it with the 30 degree angle, and after an hour or so (I wanted to get some chips out) and I couldn't get it that sharp so I tried the 40 degree angle-not very sharp either. I've used it and attempted to sharpen it 3 times and I can't figure this out.

Dog of War · Oct 21, 2006

I find AUS8A to be a little tricky to sharpen. For a long time I'd read what a fine edge many people claim they get with this steel, and it just wouldn't respond for me.

I'll assume you're working the edge completely, since your technique works with your other knives. Of course this is worth checking if you're not sure, either by making sure you raise a burr on edge side before finish sharpening, or marking the bevel with magic marker to make sure you're getting all the way to the edge.

In my case I finally figured out that AUS8A can be very prone towards forming a wire edge, small but very stubborn to completely remove. What I do now is I use Jeff Clark's trick of making a few passes on the Sharpmaker or CrockSticks at a very elevated angle to get rid of all traces of a burr before moving on to the final sharpening, and then add a microbevel using only the very lightest of pressure. Compared to stainless steels like VG10 or Sandvik 12C27M for example, which may take only 5-10 strokes per side to add a microbevel and achieve a high level of sharpness, AUS8A tends to take more work at the final stage, maybe as many as 30-40 strokes per side. I can only speculate why this may be, and the particular AUS8A knives I've used could be a factor. As much as anything, I suspect it's because manufacturers tend to run this steel a little soft that a wire edge can be a problem, but alloy composition could be a factor as well. With patience, however, I can confirm that AUS8A really can take a very fine edge, and hold it pretty well.

Cliff Stamp · Oct 21, 2006

The first and most likely problem is always that the edge is more obtuse than the Sharpmaker, even if it is only so on one side is enough to cause a problem.

-Cliff

Jeff Clark · Oct 23, 2006

I think that the root of your problem was that you were starting from a rather bad edge in the first place.

If you had chips in the edge it indicates that you need to remove a lot of material before you will get a decent edge. To do this you should hone exclusively with the medium grit (darker) rods until you have a sharp edge. To insure that you are removing enough material blacken the sides of your edge with a felt pen like a Sharpee. Hone a few strokes on each side and look closely at the where the ink has been removed. Use a magnifying glass if necessary. When you have done enough honing the ink will be removed right up to the edge. Any ink left immediately adjacent to the edge indicates more honing is necessary. If that's the case go back to honing with the medium rods until you see bright metal without black all the way to the edge.

You will get best results with a minimum of burr formation if you hone alternating left-right-left-right sides. Don't apply excessive pressure as you hone or you are likely to break down the edge. I doubt that your edge will seem adequately sharp if you do very much honing at 20-degrees per side. I would work exclusively with the medium rods and exclusively at 15-degrees until the knife will do a rough job of shaving. Only at that point switch to the flats of the fine (white) rods. Use light honing strokes with that white rods for about 10 or 15 strokes per side. At that point put the rods in the 20-degree slots and do about 5 strokes per side using extremely light pressure and alternating left/right sides.

Ben Dover · Oct 23, 2006

I have a Cold Steel Voyager in AUS8A. I keep push cutting edge on it by using the grey rods of the Sharpmaker ONLY. I use ONLY the 15 degree per side setting.

It was a real bitch to get it there initially, but in my experience, it's easy to maintain as long as you touch it up OFTEN!!! REAL OFTEN!!

My Voyager is used only for very light work, due to the inability of the AUS8A to maintain a good edge with heavy use. However, if you finally get that "rough" push cutting edge, AND MAINTAIN IT, the knife cuts incredibily well.

After the Voyager, though, I will NEVER have another AUS8A blade.:grumpy:

trekon86 · Oct 25, 2006

Yeah,
I had a Gerber knife that had AUS-8A steel for the blade material and it was a nice knife, however, I found that I ended up having to hone it over and over within a month or two to figure out the proper angle. No matter how thin I took it down to, I still had to hone it every month or so, so now I just buy knives with slightly softer steel (like AUS-6M) and I find that for me it works just as well. I use my knives almost every day, sometimes multiple times a day depending on whether I am working a summer warehouse/receiving type job or just out helping my grandpa on the farm.
PMZ

Ben Dover · Oct 26, 2006

trekon86 said:
Yeah,
I had a Gerber knife that had AUS-8A steel for the blade material and it was a nice knife, however, I found that I ended up having to hone it over and over within a month or two to figure out the proper angle. No matter how thin I took it down to, I still had to hone it every month or so, so now I just buy knives with slightly softer steel (like AUS-6M) and I find that for me it works just as well. I use my knives almost every day, sometimes multiple times a day depending on whether I am working a summer warehouse/receiving type job or just out helping my grandpa on the farm.
PMZ

Ya really ought to try a blade of A-2, D-2 or M-2 tool steel. It's nice to be able to use a knife for heavy work, and only have to sharpen it a few times per year.

sevenedges · Oct 26, 2006

If it was me, I would use a belt sander and get rid of the chips. Re-beveling the edge. Then run it across a DMT fine stone for a few strokes followed by a loaded strop. The whole process takes about ten minutes if you take your time. And they come out scary sharp. You can pick up a 1"x32" sander/grinder for around $60.00. It's hard to go back once you've used on of these puppies. It saves a *lot* of time and hand work.
Jeff

Jeff Clark · Oct 27, 2006

PS. AUS-8 is one of the easier to sharpen stainless steels and will take a sharper edge than most. It is very unlikely that the problem is with the steel itself.