another sharpmaker thread. havin problems

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Nov 4, 2007
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ok, so i got a sharpmaker a few days ago and was super stoked to finally get some real sharp knives.

i read the book.
i watched the dvd.
i attempted to sharpen with no results.
i tried the sharpie trick and i am in fact getting the edge to my suprise.
so then i read and read past threads trying to find my problem.

i am going slow, keeping the knife straight, not pressing too hard- just using the weight of the knife, and am 90% certain im taking material from the edge of the blade because of the "edge painting". the knife is a new spyderco g-10 ffg endura with vg-10. so it really shouldnt need to be re profiled id think.

after sharpening with both sets of stones at both angles i cant even cut paper. i have done atleast 300 strokes with the corners and flats of the coarse stones. i assume that oughta be enough to get it sharp. im thinking i have a burr but cannot see it and have tried stropping as well with no better results.

if anyone can help me get my knife sharp i might be enthused about collecting again cause im feelin like i wanna throw it all away now!:foot:

i searched for a past thread with pretty detailed troubleshooting for the sharpmaker but couldnt find it. if anyone can find that id love to read it again too! i try my damnedest to be observant and try and solve the problem myself first but im frustrated as heck.

thanks- CB
 
Get yourself the best magnifying glass you can find. Take a close look at that edge, and compare what you see to a good edge on another knife.

Is it rough, rounded, uneven? Do the bevels meet? Is there a burr?
 
Is it possible it is THAT particular blade? Usually Spyderco take a great edge easily, and it sounds as if you are doing everything correctly. How about trying a different knife and see if you get good results. The SharpMaker is pretty easy to use, compared with clamp devices or free-hand, and you description sounds like you have read and followed all the proceedures. "Once you eliminate all the possibilities, what ever remains, however improbable, has to be the answer!" (At least so says Mr. S. Holmes!) Try another knife and see.

Stitchawl
 
I don't have a sharpmaker but I use ceramics for sharpening. first I use a coarse stone to even out the blade and then use the ceramics to put a fine edge on. the coarse stone I found to be a very important step if the blade is really dull. if not the ceramics are fine by themselves.
 
Is the ceramic clean or glazed over with metal?

If you suspect a burr or wire edge, try cutting directly into a brass rod or stone after each grit--lightly, with just the weight of the blade. This will get rid of any burr. Then go up to the next grit.

It's counterintuitive, but if you either do this, or use the knife harder, like cutting wooden stakes or similar task, you can get the knife sharper and more importantly that sharpness will last longer because you get rid of any trace of even a microscopic burr.
 
get a sharpie & blacken the knifes edge, give it a few strokes and see what its doing ie if its removing the black, i imagine ya are on the wrong angle.
 
get a sharpie & blacken the knifes edge, give it a few strokes and see what its doing ie if its removing the black, i imagine ya are on the wrong angle.

He originally posted that he used a Sharpie and was getting the edge.
 
wow you guys were busy through the night! im gonna go get a magnifying glass today and see whats up if i can. the problem with using my other blades is that most of them are convex ground so id have lots of removal before i could see anything. but ill give it a try. think i have a slippie around somewhere. thanks for the suggestions -CB
 
wow you guys were busy through the night! im gonna go get a magnifying glass today and see whats up if i can. the problem with using my other blades is that most of them are convex ground so id have lots of removal before i could see anything. but ill give it a try. think i have a slippie around somewhere. thanks for the suggestions -CB

If you have a Radio Shack near by, pick up their 100X magnifier. It was $12 if I remember. It REALLY lets you see whats going on at the edge.

Heres the link for it. http://www.radioshack.com/product/i...igkw=magnifier&kw=magnifier&parentPage=search

Really hope that helps you. There is a bit of a learning curve on the SM so just hang in there you will get it. :thumbup:
 
ok, i went out and bought the hand held microscope to see my edge. from what i can tell i dont have a burr, i guess from alternating sides of the blade. but it appears that i am not sharpening the very edge. with the naked eye i could have swore i was but under the zoom things looked slightly different. still hard to tell.

i was however able to sharpen my al mar shrike to shaving sharp. a relief although its not the one i was slaving away on. the al mar has a convexed edge at a thinner angle than the endura though. slightly confused though becuase i assumed the spyderco angles would match those of the sharpmaker. could my knife have been ground incorrectly from the factory or am i lookin too far into it?

so i pose a new question: would you suggest hunkerin down on some sandpaper and thinning the edge of my endura or just keep on truckin on the stones of the sharpmaker?

i thank you all for all the helpful suggestions.- CB
 
The goal from the Spyderco factory is 30 degrees included. Being final sharpened by hand, that goal is not always met. Cutting a whole new bevel on a Sharpmaker can be rather time consuming. If you are comfortable with using sandpaper, I'd say go for it.
 
If I get diamond stones in for my birthday (9/2), I'd be happy to work on it for you assuming it's plain edged (NO serrations - I HATE them). Just pay shipping both ways (insured, obviously).
 
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move the blade lighter and hold it steady and at a consistent angle/ Stroke it lighter, and then use a little less pressure, and then a little less and you will be using the proper pressure. Basically zero pressure against the stone, as if you are using a paintbrush and making a light stroke.
 
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