Another Shiro Non-Captive Pivot question

[dshx]

I have a Shiro F3 with micarta scales. I disassembled it several weeks ago to clean and lube. I used a small amount of blue Loctite 242 on the ends of the screws when reassembling. I know - my bad. I’ve read all the warnings but never had a problem using this on my other Shiros. Anyway, after reassembly, I wasn’t really happy with the action and thought I may have applied too much oil on the bearings as I heard somewhere that a Shiro rep advocated running them dry. So in the process of disassembling it again, the rear handle pivot just spins as I attempt to unscrew the screw (front large pivot is ok).
I’ve read many suggested fixes for this - strong tape on the pivot head while applying as much pressure as possible using rubberized gloves, etc. I’ve tried dribbling in acetone to area around the screw head but no go. I haven’t tried the boiling or other heat suggestions as I’m not sure how it would affect the micarta scales. Now I’m considering Nick Shabazz’s “nuclear option” - applying red Loctite around the pivot. I’m thinking that I really don’t need to remove that pivot when breaking down the knife so I’m sort of ok with that.
Thoughts, suggestions, …?

 

[LarryG]

I think these kind of screws are called Chicago screws. I have removed a couple loctited ones successfully by super gluing a flat bit to the back part. After I removed the whole screw, I soaked the assembly in acetone.

 

[Jsega51]

Thoughts, suggestions, …?

With the knife closed, grip it so that you are squeezing the blade into the frame, that’s it. Squeezing the blade and frame together causes tension on the pivot barrel holding it in place while you loosen the fastener. I struggled until seeing a video of this and it works perfect!

 

[dshx]

Thanks but the problematic pivot screw is the smaller pivot screw at the far end of the handle so squeezing the blade has no effect at this end.

With the knife closed, grip it so that you are squeezing the blade into the frame, that’s it. Squeezing the blade and frame together causes tension on the pivot barrel holding it in place while you loosen the fastener. I struggled until seeing a video of this and it works perfect!

 

[dshx]

Thanks, worth a try…

I think these kind of screws are called Chicago screws. I have removed a couple loctited ones successfully by super gluing a flat bit to the back part. After I removed the whole screw, I soaked the assembly in acetone.

 

[Jsega51]

Thanks but the problematic pivot screw is the smaller pivot screw at the far end of the handle so squeezing the blade has no effect at this end.

Ahh I missed that. The word “pivot” is used so many times I thought you were talking about the pivot screw, where the blade pivots, not the body screw. With the body screws, not sure how to go about those if they’re stuck together.

 

[CPP]

Heat the pivot with thread locker on it as hot as possible and it should loosen without having to apply any pressure to its other side. I had a Russian Doctor Death that I had bought second hand apparently with a healthy dose of blue loctite.

 

[dshx]

How do you suggest heating the pivot? Again, I’m not sure how heat will affect the micarta scales.

Heat the pivot with thread locker on it as hot as possible and it should loosen without having to apply any pressure to its other side. I had a Russian Doctor Death that I had bought second hand apparently with a healthy dose of blue loctite.

 

[SharpBits]

It’s recommended to use a soldering iron to heat the screw. I had a knife maker recommend it to me for removing their screws since they use thread locker.

 

[dshx]

Thanks for all the suggestions. Heat was the key. Didn’t have to resort to a soldering iron though. It’s been unusually hot here in SF Bay Area. I left the knife on my truck’s dash in the sun for a couple hours and used Flex Tape over the pivot with a lot of thumb pressure and it finally loosened!
This event has convinced me that the the third consonant in Shirogorov should more accurately be a “t”.