Another Tree Falls - BAS

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Dobe_1

Joined
Jun 19, 2013
Messages
836
I decided to drop another tree, and finish cutting brush today, so I dropped this one with a BAS. This particular BAS is 25oz. And the standard 15" OAL.
I started off by steeling the edge. When satisfied with the edge, it was was straight to work.


I cut one of the trees in half that I had cut down earlier into smaller pieces, and de-limbed it. Next it was on to a fresh tree.

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Here is what is sweet. After all of this chopping, 5 stokes each side on a steel, and the edge is back. By the way, the paper you see in this photo is flimsy thermal receipt paper.

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In case you are wondering, between the two, I'd chose the M-43. The feel of that blade is superior, but the BAS is no slouch.
Tomorrow, I'll get my chainsaw and take all those stumps to ground level. I know what some of you must be thinking. Why didn't I just use a chainsaw in the first place. That would have been much more efficient and practical. All of us on this forum know, it's not about practical, it's about fun.
 
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I drunk to that! Hic! Thats some pretty dang big chunks for a lil ol BAS;)! Nice shots and nice blade Dobe:thumbup:
 
That is flat bad ass. I'm very impressed with you taking the Kukri to task , and very impressed how they perform. These knives are so beautiful I could see not wanting to thrash away, but it proves they are the real deal.

Nicely done!
 
PappaCutter said:
That is flat bad ass. I'm very impressed with you taking the Kukri to task , and very impressed how they perform. These knives are so beautiful I could see not wanting to thrash away, but it proves they are the real deal.

Nicely done!
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HI kukris are indeed beautiful blades, but I'm a utilitarian. If they can't perform, they have little value.
 
Hey guys, what method do you guys choose in putting an edge on your Kukri. I honestly don't know all the different kind of edges, I just hit 23 degrees and roll.
 
That tree didn't stand a chance. lol. Sweet blade, and I am glad it is working for you.
 
PappaCutter said:
Hey guys, what method do you guys choose in putting an edge on your Kukri. I honestly don't know all the different kind of edges, I just hit 23 degrees and roll.
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There's a lot of threads on this. The convex is not extreme, and with some it is practically flat ground. I generally go about 20 - 22 degrees with an oil stone, and finish with a strop or butcher's steel.
When using a stone, I feel the friction more than I look for the angle. That's something you just get used to.
I really don't bother with using the mouse pad method. It works, I just don't bother, and prefer using stones. With all of the chopping I did with this BAS, and what I did with the M-43, the edge held up well, and it only took a few passes on a fine finishing steel to get the edge back.

As with any blade and continual sharpening, a slight re profiling is in order. That is simple too, and only requires dropping the angle ever so slightly. You shouldn't have to do this for some time. Many will never re profile an edge.
 
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PappaCutter said:
Hey guys, what method do you guys choose in putting an edge on your Kukri. I honestly don't know all the different kind of edges, I just hit 23 degrees and roll.
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Many questions you may have can be answered here ( if it's not, just ask :)): http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...me-to-Read-the-Himalayan-Imports-Link-Library

As for sharpening:

Probably the best sharpening post ever made
Tips Tricks and Useful Finds
Sharpening a Khukuri
Simple way to put a convex edge on a CAK?
How To - Sharpening Questions... again....
(WiP) A kukri's "working edges"
 
Dobe1, reviews that compare knives at the same task are great. I got a 2 lb AK as my first khukuri so I could experience what a lot of people considered the best chopper. So the AK is my baseline. Lighter is next, but I'm not sure I'm willing to give up the 12" blade. It's optimal to baton with. Your reviews are helpful in determining my next khukuri, thanks.
 
Just a word of note: HI does not condone the usage of powered equipment for sharpening, secondary bevels or reprofiling of the factory edges.
Doing these things may render your blade unstable for chopping, voiding your warranty and shortening the usable life of your blade.
 
Good to know. How do you make sure you don't re profile. I'm practicing on crap knives and machetes. Do you try to always use finer stones with minimal pressure ?
 
PappaCutter said:
Good to know. How do you make sure you don't re profile. I'm practicing on crap knives and machetes. Do you try to always use finer stones with minimal pressure ?
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As for me, I often use a combination of the mousepad method and coarse to fine stones to sharpen using as little pressure as possible/needed. I always try to remove as little steel as possible while maintaining the original angles of the edge. For chopping, always leave plenty of meat behind the edge and never make it scary sharp. For chopping scary sharp is unnecessary and may contribute to edge failure. Think "field" or "axe/hatchet" sharp. Always better to be safe than sorry. A missed strike involving a body part will be that much worse with scary sharp.
 
My philosophy is different, not necessarily better, just different. I'll sharpen at about a 20 degree angle for a small bevel. I'll start with an India fine, and next with an Arkansas soft. Then, I use a strop or a butcher's steel to hone the edge. By that time, the edge will shave. An edge like this is actually less fragile than coarse sharpening, because it's the angle of sharpening that determines in large part how durable the edge is.

By honing, as opposed to sharpening, you achieve a very sharp edge by aligning the edge, and removing micro serrations. These serrations tend to snap and bend when the blade strikes something hard, i.e. a tree. You're not actually making the edge thinner, you're making the edge more uniform throughout the length of the blade, and aligning the edge.

If you want to know how to sharpen a Khukuri, find someone who has sharpened a lot of axes, same principle, and you'll be hard pressed to find a more convex grind than the grind on a cross-grain cutting axe. Although I generally don't take the same amount of time and honing with axes as I do with my HI blades, the principle is the same.
 
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