anti scale compound

The Brownells liquids better than the powder IMO. You have to REALLY clean the blade or the stuff can "bead" up.
 
Not sure what you are using it for, but I have had good luck using satinite on my carbon steel stuff. You might be looking at SS, then forget what I said.
 
Turco is for HT below 1600F. It works very well. I was not aware that K&G carried it.
 
The Brownell's powder will cause pitting if you have a "lump" of the stuff on the surface of your blade. That and not having to heat up the blade to apply the compound is why I switched to the liquid. I have read on the interwebz that Turco can also cause pitting.
 
i just called ATP and spoke to a Tim Conner,
I purchased a pint of the 641
He was very helpful and I can recommend calling him.

thanks
 
I found that with the liquid heating the blade up a little combats the beading up it wants to do. I apply mine with a popsicle stick ( I have kids so have a million of them for their art stuff) and holding it on an area for a few seconds then moving on I get a nice thin coat.

You can still use a forge for heat treat at least for 1084 ( only one I have tried it with ) as the glow will shine through and a magnet will still work on it. HT oven of course no problem.

I love the stuff. clean up post HT is a breeze, no decarb to mess with.
 
ATP 641 is great stuff. Virtually eliminates decarb. Will flake off during quench, and with an air cool usually most of it flakes off. So for thermal cycles you need to re-apply, which I don't mind doing. SS foil may be better/more efficient for cycling, but for hardening, ATP-641 is awesome. I don't have any problem with beading, but prior to application I scrub with Acetone and then windex. To apply, I use an old toothbrush and my wife's hair dryer!
 
I like boric acid (roach powder) and denatured alcohol. Mix in an old jar until its a muddy consistency and dab it on your blade decently thick. Let it get dry and crusty and its good to go. In the kiln it will become clear and glassy. Quench per usual. The boric acid will wash off under hot water. Blade/parts come out as shiny and scale free as when you put them in.
 
I also use foil for anything other than the quench. I used the lower temp foil for forge welding Ferry flip billets, It survived the first welding press and started to disintegrate during the second press when i wanted to remove it anyway.
samuraistuart said:
ATP 641 is great stuff. Virtually eliminates decarb. Will flake off during quench, and with an air cool usually most of it flakes off. So for thermal cycles you need to re-apply, which I don't mind doing. SS foil may be better/more efficient for cycling, but for hardening, ATP-641 is awesome. I don't have any problem with beading, but prior to application I scrub with Acetone and then windex. To apply, I use an old toothbrush and my wife's hair dryer!
Click to expand...
 
When I couldn't find Turco anymore I made my own. It is a thick slurry of yellow ochre and boric acid in water. I shake it up well and coat the blade. Let dry and HT. It comes off in hot water and leaves a blade with a clean and decarb free surface.

The ratio doesn't seem critical, but around 75% ochre and 25% boric acid seems to work good. I add a 40z bottle of gum Arabic when I have one around, but it works OK withoiut it.
Lately, I have also added a little satanite to the mix, which seems to make it grip a bit better.

When the mix gets a bit thick, just add a little more water. I store it in a large mouth cat food jug that is about 12" tall. I shake it well, stick the blade in to coat it, let the excess drain off back into the jug, then put the lid back on. I have a magnet bar in the forge to stick the blades on while the coating dries ( it is also good for holding blades while they cool, etc.).
 
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