Antler Straightening 101

Dan Gray

Dan Gray

Joined
Jun 25, 2001
Messages
8,474
hey guys
tell me please
about two weeks or so ago someone here mentioned
Antler Straightening 101 that was on
on ezboard.com and posted a link to it in shop talk some where..

but it's been deleted now on Ez board I think... :grumpy:
can you remember anything about it or where it went?
one of the guys e-mailed me noting that it's not a good link on the knife making site now..?? :( Thanks

edtited to add the link thanks Mike :)
http://p222.ezboard.com/fprimalfiresfrm12.showMessage?topicID=12.topic
it should work from here ok..nope I'll fix that real fast..wait one... :grumpy:

posted by 1932 on ezboard.com
there :)
Antler Straightening 101

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

www.viewoftherockies.com/Antlers1.html

This is the way I straighten antler tines.

Picture 1, page 1, shows the straightening tool which is a vise with 2x6 redwood jaw liners.
They are held in place by duct taping deck screws that have been screwed into the 2x6s to the vise jaws. This allows you to move the jaws in and out and not have the 2x6s fall off. The screws and tape are not structural, the pressure applied to the antler holds the wood in place as the straightening process occurs.

Picture 2, page 1, shows antler tine lightly clamped in vise for a trial fit. This is very important because of the time element involved in the straightening process. Make sure that when the tine is placed in the clamp and lightly tightened it doesnt just flop over, if it does you will have to put the tine back into the hot water and start over when you actually do the straightening. Do a few trial runs so that it is automatic and smooth, insert tine with one hand while at the same time you tighten the vise. Once you feel confident that you can put the tine between the boards and tighten the jaws without the tine flopping over or falling out leave the vise jaws set at the proper spacing to rapidly accept the tine and go put the tine in a pot of boiling water. Use a big pot, 6 quarts or so is what I use, that way the water doesnt cool off while I am transporting the pot with the tine in it to the vise. For a piece of anler the size shown let it boil for about 20 minutes then take the pot with the tine in it along with the water to the vise. Retrieve the tine from the boiling water with a pair of tongs, wear gloves which will allow you to grab the tine and put it between the boards just like you practiced. Immediately run the vise fully closed, you should feel very little resistance from the tine as it straightens. 10-15
 
Hi Mike I found it too

the link won't work from the page (my page) for some reason?
it's the same but I think it's that way because of band width usage.
I sent the info to the guy and the picture link also

thanks again Mike. I knew someone would find it if I didn't.. :)
 
You're welcome, Dan. Hope you can make it work from Knivesby.com.

Edited: Look at the link on Knivesby... is there an extra character at the end after "topic"?
 
fitzo said:
You're welcome, Dan. Hope you can make it work from Knivesby.com.

Edited: Look at the link on Knivesby... is there an extra character at the end after "topic"?
Click to expand...

Thanks mike
I'll do it the way I edited it anyway in case they edit it on ez-board this way they can't change it unless they ask me to :)
and I'll post this link on the making site.. :D
I wonder if they'll put me in jail? :p
 
Dan Gray said:
Thanks mike
I wonder if they'll put me in jail? :p
Click to expand...

YW, Dan.

I hope the hairy Portagee doesn't see that jail comment tonite... LOL
 
fitzo said:
YW, Dan.

I hope the hairy Portagee doesn't see that jail comment tonite... LOL
Click to expand...
Who Me??? I wouldn't say a word. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
PS: Dan would make some one a Fine Bitch in jail. :eek: :eek: :p HEHEHEHE!!!
 
indian george said:
Who Me??? I wouldn't say a word. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
PS: Dan would make some one a Fine Bitch in jail. :eek: :eek: :p HEHEHEHE!!!
Click to expand...

why thank you IG :)
I'm glad I'm ranked on top of the food chain :D
 
Thanks for posting this. I had no idea this could be done. The things you can learn on these forums is amazzzzzzzzing. I'm going to go boil me some water and cook up some antler.
tell me please
about two weeks or so ago someone here mentioned
Antler Straightening 101 that was on
on ezboard.com and posted a link to it in shop talk some where..

but it's been deleted now on Ez board I think... :grumpy:
can you remember anything about it or where it went?
one of the guys e-mailed me noting that it's not a good link on the knife making site now..?? :( Thanks

edtited to add the link thanks Mike :)
http://p222.ezboard.com/fprimalfire...opicID=12.topic
it should work from here ok..nope I'll fix that real fast..wait one... :grumpy:

posted by 1932 on ezboard.com
there :)
Antler Straightening 101

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

www.viewoftherockies.com/Antlers1.html

This is the way I straighten antler tines.

Picture 1, page 1, shows the straightening tool which is a vise with 2x6 redwood jaw liners.
They are held in place by duct taping deck screws that have been screwed into the 2x6s to the vise jaws. This allows you to move the jaws in and out and not have the 2x6s fall off. The screws and tape are not structural, the pressure applied to the antler holds the wood in place as the straightening process occurs.

Picture 2, page 1, shows antler tine lightly clamped in vise for a trial fit. This is very important because of the time element involved in the straightening process. Make sure that when the tine is placed in the clamp and lightly tightened it doesnt just flop over, if it does you will have to put the tine back into the hot water and start over when you actually do the straightening. Do a few trial runs so that it is automatic and smooth, insert tine with one hand while at the same time you tighten the vise. Once you feel confident that you can put the tine between the boards and tighten the jaws without the tine flopping over or falling out leave the vise jaws set at the proper spacing to rapidly accept the tine and go put the tine in a pot of boiling water. Use a big pot, 6 quarts or so is what I use, that way the water doesnt cool off while I am transporting the pot with the tine in it to the vise. For a piece of anler the size shown let it boil for about 20 minutes then take the pot with the tine in it along with the water to the vise. Retrieve the tine from the boiling water with a pair of tongs, wear gloves which will allow you to grab the tine and put it between the boards just like you practiced. Immediately run the vise fully closed, you should feel very little resistance from the tine as it straightens. 10-15[/QUOTE]
 
See, Dan, he didn't notice 'til this morning and I think it's a little milder than I expected!! :D
 
So the question is: Wouldn't 'straightened' antler have the tendency, over time, to move back towards it's original shape? After all, there must be some sort of 'grain' in the antler which is formed when it grows, and if you bend the grain abnormally, it would only stand to reason that it would try and spring back to it's original curvature. So if the straightened antler on a knife handle was exposed to high temperature and moisture, (like if it was damp and left in the sun) would it move ?
Has anyone made a knife handle out of straightened antler and subjected it to any testing to see if it moves after the fact? Just curious.
 
jiminy said:
So the question is: Wouldn't 'straightened' antler have the tendency, over time, to move back towards it's original shape? After all, there must be some sort of 'grain' in the antler which is formed when it grows, and if you bend the grain abnormally, it would only stand to reason that it would try and spring back to it's original curvature. So if the straightened antler on a knife handle was exposed to high temperature and moisture, (like if it was damp and left in the sun) would it move ?
Has anyone made a knife handle out of straightened antler and subjected it to any testing to see if it moves after the fact? Just curious.
Click to expand...

I've done steam bending on oak and other types of wood. It does not have a tendency to revert to its original shape after being bent. The antler is some what along these lines. I still have my steam bending outfit. I will try a piece of antler in it and see what happens. You might have it stabilized after it was straightened. That should keep it from reverting to original shape. My 02 cents.
 
I've made my own water-skis back 35 year ago and they are still bent :)
and they get wet... I don't keep them sealed like I should either..
 
fitzo said:
See, Dan, he didn't notice 'til this morning and I think it's a little milder than I expected!! :D
Click to expand...
he was most kind wasn't he.. :) must be getting old and tired.. :D
 
Let me know how it works. I have a gorgeous slender sambar stag carver that is a bit on the wiggly side and I would love to be able to straighten it out rather than have to "grind down the high spots"
 
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