anvil hardface attachment

C

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Jan 27, 2005
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I bought an anvil yesterday, well sort of, i bought a 186lb piece of steel from a scrap yard, it's about 6 inches by 6 inches and maybe 18 inches long, i am thinking about mainly using the end as a work surface, mounting it long ways in a wooden stand,
my question is this, i have a piece of 3/8" thich 4140 which i can heat treat and use as a working surface, but i can't figure out how to attach it to the mild steel effectively, any suggestions? i could do the ht and have a buddy weld the face on, but that would ruin the temper at the edges, and i can't weld it and then ht the whole thing, won't fit in my oven very well, i was thinking of a mechanical means that would cost me too much work space, ie bolts? pins? something, or is there some sort of adhesive that could tolerate being heated and beaten on? jb weld?
whats my best option?
by the way, i walked away from the yard with that hunk for 40cents a pound, is that good?
 
What about welding the 4140 on and then heat treating the face with a rosebud tip on an oxy/acet torch? Biggest problem would be lowering the whole hunk into a quenchant.

-d
 
i could do that, and douse it with quenchant, but then i have no way to temper it, it won't go in my oven
 
I made an anvil from a piece of round stock 6" dia.X 12" long, it's about 75#, 4140, heated the work surface using IG's forge and a torch, when done heating we just hosed it down with a garden hose, no cracking. Rebounds almost as good as my Peter Wright. :D

Larry T
 
no tempering after the quench then? i would think that would be way to brittle, but i don't know
 
T Blade said:
I made an anvil from a piece of round stock 6" dia.X 12" long, it's about 75#, 4140, heated the work surface using IG's forge and a torch, when done heating we just hosed it down with a garden hose, no cracking. Rebounds almost as good as my Peter Wright. :D

Larry T
Click to expand...
Yep!!! He did that and my shop still has the scares to prove it.:grumpy: :jerkit:
 
if you are able to use a rosebud torck to harden it, you should be able to use that same torch to draw it back.

While hardening a 4140 face may be nice, and you will get a bit more action when hand hammering, it isn't overly critical. I have several fullers and power hammer dies made from 4140 that I never bothered to harden, they still work great after several years of use.

Just make sure, hardened and tempered, or leave as is, that the weld between face and body is solid, and completely penetrated. just welding around the edges may crack and seperate at a bad time.

Good luck
ken
 
4140 is air hardening, so quenching isn't a real big deal. As for tempering, you could get close enough going by color.
 
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