- Joined
- Jun 15, 2009
- Messages
- 1
While we were at Ryecon's, we also took some time to reface that old Fisher anvil that scott had. We cut the base plate off of a section of railroad track, (making a V cross section) and flipped it upside down, to weld it solid from the center out
first we sized it for length
this was all that was left of the original face
first I had to clean up the base (ridge) on the cuttoff section of track
here's a pic of the slight Gap I left so the welds can touch in the center
We then tacked it in place with a mig, and started the weld at the center, working out.
there was a lot to fill as we worked our way outward, and I used the leftover nubs to help fill. It's important to keep the amperage high, so the steel can FULLU liqify, putting the slag on the top. so you can chip it all out before the next pass. At 225 amps, I was getting about 1 inch deep liqifaction, helping to keep the slag inclusions to a minimum.
in the middle of all of this, a GIANT red oak broke during an afternoon storm, Killing a Volvo next door, and forced the changing of drawers for some of us involved. The anvil got put on hold for the day to allow for cleanup
after dark, I got back to the anvil
the track was a little wide, so I trimmed a bit off
here's the Ugly thing all welded up
Ryecon agreed to to the cleanup grinding to true everything up and take some good pic's of the final thing.I would have blown the holes for the hardie and pritchel with the cutting torch, but we ran out of acetalene.
I did this project specifically to pull the beards of the all knowing out there that say it cannot be done. we preheated the anvil in a campfire (it only needs to be heated to about 500 degree's) I used nickle rods on the cast iron, then welded 7018 to the rest. The anvil has great rebound, but little ring, due to the cast base.
first we sized it for length
this was all that was left of the original face
first I had to clean up the base (ridge) on the cuttoff section of track
here's a pic of the slight Gap I left so the welds can touch in the center
We then tacked it in place with a mig, and started the weld at the center, working out.
there was a lot to fill as we worked our way outward, and I used the leftover nubs to help fill. It's important to keep the amperage high, so the steel can FULLU liqify, putting the slag on the top. so you can chip it all out before the next pass. At 225 amps, I was getting about 1 inch deep liqifaction, helping to keep the slag inclusions to a minimum.
in the middle of all of this, a GIANT red oak broke during an afternoon storm, Killing a Volvo next door, and forced the changing of drawers for some of us involved. The anvil got put on hold for the day to allow for cleanup
after dark, I got back to the anvil
the track was a little wide, so I trimmed a bit off
here's the Ugly thing all welded up
Ryecon agreed to to the cleanup grinding to true everything up and take some good pic's of the final thing.I would have blown the holes for the hardie and pritchel with the cutting torch, but we ran out of acetalene.
I did this project specifically to pull the beards of the all knowing out there that say it cannot be done. we preheated the anvil in a campfire (it only needs to be heated to about 500 degree's) I used nickle rods on the cast iron, then welded 7018 to the rest. The anvil has great rebound, but little ring, due to the cast base.