Anvil shaped object

T

The Gopher

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Mar 4, 2011
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Since I currently don't have an anvil I am always on the lookout for anvil shaped objects. When I saw this in the metals dumpster at work I thought it was just the top. As I started digging it out I realized it was big. I think it was a forming station or something. The base plate is 3/4 inch thick and the main frame is 2.5 inches thick. I'm not sure what the steel is but what do you think about this for an anvil? I'm not crazy about the cutout area, but the whole thing does weigh around 150 pounds I'd guess. I took the top plate off since it also wasnt a solid connection.



 
Thats a nice chunk of whatever it it !!

If you re-configure its sections to create maximum mass directly under the striking surface, it be great forging knifes & trinket size work.
 
Looks like an injection mold from the spring lifters and shaped cavity/core. It should be heat treated steel and make a fantastic ASO. Especially that lower u shaped section if it's a solid block. Even if it has cooling lines it will still serve you well. Honestly it might be better than a lot of actual anvils out there depending on the steel.
Save any of the ejector pins if there are any. They will make good hot working punches and other shop tools. (Probably not blades)
 
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I don't think it is an injection mold tool, but your right, there are spring lifters there. I believe this was a forming tool for bending heavier sheet metal. the underside of the uppermost block is concave and there is a feature to indent a notch.

The bottom "C" does appear to be solid, with the exception of a couple tapped holes on top. I wish the surfaces of the larger blocks didn't have so many holes in them but beggars can't be choosers! If I wanted to fill a few of the holes, do you think it would work to tighten a tall bolt in the holes then cut it off and grind it flush?
 
Here is what I would do with that:

1) Use an angle grinder and cut the welds to the base plate.
2) With the angle grinder, clean up the welds you cut on the anvil part, and set the anvil part aside
3) Grind the old welds of the base so it will sit flat when flipped over.
4) Turn the plate over so the smooth bottom side is up.
5) Flip the main assembly sideways on the plate so the "U" ends are on the base plate and the current smooth side is the anvil surface.
6) Weld the anvil to the base.

This will make a bridge style anvil suitable for knives and small work. The part that is the top now will become the cut shelf. The cut shelf can be used for cutting and hammering in steps, like drawing a tang.
 
What Stacy said. If it's hardened steel it'll work even better, but not required. For knives a traditional anvil is not ideal, the horn and heel gets in the way, a large square or rectangle works super for forging close to shape.
 
My pc's dead so I can only see small images of the dies on my phone. If it's a stamping or punch press fixture the base steels are likely still going to be great for making an anvil out of. I would be really cautious about using the dies themselves though. They may be full hardened and a serious hazard for chipping or at the very least destroying the faces of your hammers. The C turned into an "n" will be awesome though. I would definatly follow Stacys advice and turn it. Not only will you have a flat working surface but if you leave the leg up unsupported it will likely ring significantly more than it would with the legs down.
 
Thanks everyone! I'll be turnng it on its side to make a bridge anvil as suggested!

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OK guys, I got it cut off and cleaned up, now I just need to take it to a shop to get welded back together as I don't have a welder for this type of work. This is how it will look in the end.

 
Nice, Thats precisely how I would re configured it.
Just curious, How does the stuff feel for rebound, Had you tried it ?
 
Since I don't have experience with other anvils I'm not sure entirely. I went to you tube to see some others then tried it myself with a 5/8" steel ball. To be honest I wasnt impressed compared to what I saw on you tube. However the lower shelf was much better than the taller bridge. Will it get better once welded up and on a proper stand?

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Welding won't make a difference with a ball bearing bounce test. Most likely it's not very hard, but you could use surface hardening welding rods and harden the top. A bit more work then what I'm guessing your after but would give you a much better rebound.
 
While a properly hardened anvil face is great, a nice ASO like yours will get plenty of use. Use lighter blows and avoid striking the anvil face with the hammer. Do tasks that will beat up things on the lower steps, and use the upper surface for general flat work. Remember that much of the final shaping will be done on the grinder, and there is no need to get the forged blade down to precise size and shape.
 
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