Anvil Stands Complete!

Brian Ayres

Brian Ayres

Joined
Feb 4, 2011
Messages
1,429
So,

I bought my 300# Fisher a year and a half ago and just tonight got the stand built. :eek: :D
I built the stand for the 157# Fisher a couple of weeks ago.

Both of the base plates are 1-1/2" thick


Picture065.jpg


The 300# anvil sits at 32-1/2" and is closer to knuckle height. The stand's base plate is 107#. The stand and anvil weigh around 425#. I have some rounds of W2 to strike down now!

The 157# anvil sits at 35-1/2". The base plate on this stand is 61#. I imagine the stand and anvil run around 240#.

The legs are splayed out at around a 8 degree angle with cross supports. 2" Sch 40 steel pipe legs with 1" Sch 40 cross supports.

Both take a lot of effort to tip. I can't anchor either to the ground in my rental house/garage, but the feet can be drilled later if desired.

I had the forge going last night to help a friend heat treat a blade. Tomorrow I fire it to forge a blade! :D
 
As both anvil's are Fishers there is no inherrant ring to be transmitted through to the stand. I used a piece of 1/2" thick heavy asphalt shingle to isolate any further transfer of sound.

If I owned a cast steel or wrought bodied anvil I would fill the legs with sand and oil. I still might drill a hole and fill the legs then tap and thread a plug in...

The pipe was free from work, if I was buying material I'd lean towards square legs as they are easier to mark and cut an 8 degree angle....
 
Brian Ayres said:
As both anvil's are Fishers there is no inherrant ring to be transmitted through to the stand. I used a piece of 1/2" thick heavy asphalt shingle to isolate any further transfer of sound.

If I owned a cast steel or wrought bodied anvil I would fill the legs with sand and oil. I still might drill a hole and fill the legs then tap and thread a plug in...

The pipe was free from work, if I was buying material I'd lean towards square legs as they are easier to mark and cut an 8 degree angle....
Click to expand...

Fishers are designed in a way that they don't ring? I'm not familiar with them, but I like that idea.
 
Very nice. I might suggest mounting both on a solid piece of sheet to spread the load across the whole floor and for future anchoring to prevent turnover.

Someday..............

Larry
Tinkerer
 
mgysgthath said:
Fishers are designed in a way that they don't ring? I'm not familiar with them, but I like that idea.
Click to expand...

Yup. Fisher anvils are cast iron bodies. They patented a process where they weld the W1 tool steel face on during the pour.
You get more of a thwack than a ring. Vulcan anvils are also cast iron bodied but are hit or miss on quality.
Fishers are known as the "neighbor friendly" anvil.

I am going deaf in my right ear due to a machine I've run for 15 years so I purposefully searched for a Fisher anvil. Anything to minimize further damage along with proper diligence with hearing protection now...

I don't really see a need for a plate at the base. You have to really push to get either stand to tip. Eventually I'll drop a couple flushell anchors in the concrete and they will be one with the earth.
 
Those are some nice stands, I need to make something for my sodefor and PW, both are kind of ringy though. Looks solid enough to me.
 
They are pretty stout. I probably should have brought my Mom over to weld them so she doesn't criticize my welds when she visits.....:D

Adding sand with some oil inside the legs of a stand like these would help quiet your PW and Sodefors.

Thanks for the compliments. I love the beauty and grace of old tools. It's pretty cool forging on an anvil that has a hundred years of unknown history on it.
 
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