Anvils, anvils, anvils, which one?

[unky_gumbi]

So after missing out on the Peter Wright anvil last week I have been searching for other anvils in the area and have found a few at local auctions, but what ones to try and get. I only want one and have a price that I am willing to pay set so if I get out bid so be it.

These three go on the block next weekend

They are listing 4 but only showing 3 of them weights are 140, 100, 90, and 40, but you can sort of see the fourth in the background of the bottom picture. I have no interest in the little one, but opinions of the condition on the other two would be nice.

This one goes on the block the same weekend at a different auction and is listed at 150lbs

Looks to be in good shape but there is only one so I figure I may get out bid on it

This one is marked at 75lbs but clearly the edges are in rough shape. It could go cheap, but is it worth it?

On the same weekend at and estate sale two of these are on the block, no weights listed but the back one and middle ones catch my eye

And finally there is this one, looks like it is just hidden in the back of a barn and hasn't seen any duty in some time. Looks like it is welded to the cart and the edges looked chipped and damaged to me, but if it goes for a good price is it worth getting and trying to bring back to life?

So what are the best ones I have shown? There is one more but there is no picture of it to show.

 

[Mr. Bad Example]

About all I know to look for is a fairly flat surface (no swayback) and sharp edges are good. There should, from my understanding, be a good rebound if you let a hammer fall on it from a short distance. I would think one around 100 pounds would be good yet still easy to move around.

Looks like one of them has a hot cutter with it. If you can get any hardie tools (and/or tongs, etc.) with the anvil, do it as they seem pretty costly.

 

[unky_gumbi]

About all I know to look for is a fairly flat surface (no swayback) and sharp edges are good. There should, from my understanding, be a good rebound if you let a hammer fall on it from a short distance. I would think one around 100 pounds would be good yet still easy to move around.

Looks like one of them has a hot cutter with it. If you can get any hardie tools (and/or tongs, etc.) with the anvil, do it as they seem pretty costly.

The auction for the one with the hot cutter is selling the tongs separate I know that for a fact, I am not sure if there are any other hardie tools for them. also I don't think I can bargain and grind at an auction, never been to one before There is a place not far from where I live, walking distance, that sells hardie tools and tongs, but no anvils

This is the list for the Blacksmith tools and horse section of that auction. Yes there is a Canadian giant trip hammer there, but I don't think I could afford it, and I don't have the room for it

• 14 yr old Quarter Horsemare
• 18 yr old Arabian Gelding, Both Adult Saddle Broke
• 2) Western Saddles
• Canadian Giant 25 Trip Hammer & Dies
• Canadian Forge
• 4) Anvils * 140 lb * 100 lb * 90 lb * 40 lb
• Leg Vise w/ Heading Tool
• Forge Tools
• Tongs2) Forge Blowers
• Leg Vise
• Horse Collar

Picture of the hammer

 

[Russ Andrews]

Of the ones posted, I'd go for either the larger one in the first photo,
or the 150 lb anvil in the third photo......between them would prefer
the third.

If you have the oportunity to check them over, take a ball bearing with you.
....1/2" to 3/4" in diameter. Use it to check rebound...drop the bearing
from a foot or less...it should rebound 90% +.

Anvil face should be flat...preferably...but many are slightly sway backed.
This can be ground flat...but would influence the price.

For forging flat stock into blades #100-110 is about minimum weight..IMO,
and would prefer heavier. If forging thicker stock....go for a heavier....it's
better to get one that you think might be heavier than needed, than to
get one that's too light, and regret.

 

[unky_gumbi]

I like the 150 pounder too, but with there only being one I think I will get out bid on it. Luckily it is the day before the first set so if I get out bid there are others to try for the next day

 

[12345678910]

You say you have never been to an auction before.

about them in general...

If you are serious, get there minimum 2 hours early, get a good parking spot, get your registration taken care of and look at EVERYTHING twice. Have no preconceived notions about what you are there to buy...the bargains are usually serendipity.

The bargains that are are there are on the one little special tool in the bottom of that nondescript box of broken files...you recognize it and no one else does or saw it there.

Once they start bidding, the crowd will surround the action and you have to already know what you are looking at.

Open EVERYTHING, I once missed a new VFD for $5 because it was in a box i ignored.
I missed a DC motor and controller for $20 when slept in and got to an auction late and didn't have time to eyeball everything.
Be on the watch for the bastards who move that special little gizmo to a different box to outfox you on it.
Remember what you saw in each little bundle. ven if only 1 wrench in a bundle actually might be Snap-ON, they will yell it out loudly and repeatedly, don't let it influence what you decided it was worth to you when you looked at it...

Get a feel for the auctioneers rhythm and style.
Some are lightening fast and some will spend a LONG time on every 50 cent item...don't get caught missing something with speedy.

I find that the first number they start with is the amount that they estimate to end at...
The actual starting bid should be 1/2 or 1/4 of that
Watch and wait, is the crowd hot and bidding high,or really quiet and priced low.

Don't be afraid to shout a different price, if they can't get a bid to start where they think it should, offer a dollar or 2, you may be the only bidder and get it at that.
If you get known as the guy that has given them some starting bids, they may reward you a bit and end quickly on you just to keep things moving and people bidding faster.

The anvils, with the exception of the power hammers are likely to be the very last item sold.
They will keep the crowd there to get the best prices on all the misc and junk at the beginning.

If something really belongs together and is useless unless matched with something else, tell the auctioneer before the auction and see if they will bundle it together...I've never had them not listen.

Buyers premium
Some auctions add 10% on top of the purchase price and then taxes on top, it amounts to an additional 26 % here beyond what you bid...
Know the new prices of things and pay less, afterall that's the advantage to an auction sale....
I have seen people pay new price for broken junk...

Show absolutely no hesitation, bid fast and with steely eyed confidence, you will bully the teenaged kid with less money than you into stopping early and it will save you the inflated price of his bids.

Take along some things,
$ CASH, most auctions are cash based,
(including small bills and coins, the best deals i have made are side deals where I pay a buck or 2 for something in the bundle the guy beside me didn't want.)

Drivers license and credit card, sometimes needed for registration.
a pen-write down what you bought on the back of your card, or what stuff sold for(for later reference)
a pocket flashlight (for the back corner of the old barn moments)
warm comfortable clothes (and rain gear)
food, water...
comfortable shoes
a shirt with a chest pocket to keep your bidding number handy
...only needed after you win the bid, no need to wave it around all the time.

Be memorable, funny hat, whatever, some way for them to recognize you throughout the day.

If you are happy and comfortable, you will be sharper and have more fun than those who didn't prep for it. (dry warm fed and watered)

If they use "barkers" ignore them and get up front close, deal directly with the auctioneer, they will try to keep thing going fast and loud. I'v seen people bid against themselves in the confusion, but the hired men are useless and the main guy is the only one that counts.

Have a way to get your goodies home.
Take along a hand cart for that anvil, and a couple of 5 gallon pails to carry various things out with.
That 5$ box of tongs, chisels, files, punches and crap will bust out of that ratty cardboard box half way to the car.

 

[RMLamey]

Go for that 150.

 

[unky_gumbi]

I am only interested in getting an anvil so all the little side bargains mean nothing to me. I also have a set limit of what I am willing to spend so once it goes over that I stop bidding. Its not so much that i am looking for a deal on an anvil, I am just looking to get an anvil in my price range. Right now I am just trying to find transportation to the first two auctions next weekend. Both are about an hour out of the city and I don't drive any more I could request proxy bidding but I would want to see the anvils in person before bidding on them.

 

[12345678910]

I know you are focused on an anvil, but if you need tongs or something like that,
10 or 15$ with no shipping is quite different than $45 USS plus $30 shipping.

...an old hammer for $1 or 2 can be reshaped into a special forging tool, hot cut, pierce whatever...

Look at everything... you will be there anyway...

and talk to people, have a little fun, these people are relatively local to you with the same interests, maybe somebody local can show you a trick or two...

 

[unky_gumbi]

No shipping on tongs for me I can pick them up at Western Rawhide only a 15-20 minute walk from home. May not be perfect for what I want to do, but they are a start. They have a few blacksmith tools there

 

[unky_gumbi]

So I have been doing a little thinking on the anvil subject. I have decided that because of my up coming elbow surgery, and the fact that I wouldn't be able to use it till next summer that I am going to pass on getting one this year. Instead I am going to put the money into my grinder build that I will be able to use over the winter.
So if anyone in the Winnipeg Manitoba area is looking for an anvil I am willing to pass on the locations and times of the auctions to you, just drop me a PM.

 

[PigPopper]

12345678910,

Great write up on the auction. I have not been to one before but thanks to your write up, I will be better prepared than probably 60-80% of the people there when I do get to go to one. Great tips on the side items as well.

Thanks for taking the time to educate us.