Any advice on methods for a nice fuller cut?

Athenas Edge

Athenas Edge

Founder / Chief Bladesmith
Joined
Jun 26, 2016
Messages
129
Hey Guys,

I really want to get some fullers on my blades, but I don't have an end mill or any special tools in that regard. Most of my equipment's pretty simple. Angle Grinder, 2x72, Forge, Anvil, Buffer among plenty of hand tools. My 2x72 is a LB1000 from Chris Williams, awesome belt sander and extremely affordable. I have no attachments on it, just what came with the thing which is a basic flat platen. Is there a method you guys would suggest to make fullers that come out pretty well, or even maybe a tool I could buy to get the job done? Thanks!
 
Make a sen and cut them by hand. It has been the preferred method for 1000 years. All you need is a piece of 1095/W2 and a few things laying around the shop. Search with the custom search engine in the stickys for "Don Fogg sen", "Fullering tool", and "fullering sen". A fullering sen has a rounded scraper, like a lathe tool the shape of the desired fuller. A beveling sen is like a draw knife.
Here is a nice one:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/522813-Groover-Fullering-tool
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Make a sen and cut them by hand. It has been the preferred method for 1000 years. All you need is a piece of 1095/W2 and a few things laying around the shop. Search with the custom search engine in the stickys for "Don Fogg sen", "Fullering tool", and "fullering sen". A fullering sen has a rounded scraper, like a lathe tool the shape of the desired fuller. A beveling sen is like a draw knife.
Here is a nice one:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/522813-Groover-Fullering-tool
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I'm curious if I could get that nice ramp at the start and finish with something like this.
 
Yes, you can angle them in and out. Clean up is with shaped slip stones or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel.
 
Here's my version of that same of that same fullering scraper. You can grind any shape of scraper for it out of lathe bit stock. Fullers can be blended up to the surface easily enough. I recommend EDM stones for finishing afterwards.

14317517_1118968344845907_5119693023856561995_n.jpg


Test cut on mild
14264233_1118968378179237_1664469893924881857_n.jpg


Kukri in 80crv2 with scraped in fuller
14359148_1128173727258702_3409099316128906688_n.jpg
 
I have been wanting to make one of these for a long time.
 
Thanks for all the feedback Gents! I'll have to find some time to put aside and make one of these bad larry's.
 
If I make another, I will certainly try to make one of the tools described above.
I made the one shown below, just with files (starting with a triangular to scratch, and moving up to a piece of a chainsaw file).
My fingers got pretty sore and there are some flaws (stray scratches) I'm not happy with.
ry6o4X3.jpg
 
Salem, how does that thing work? Do you push or pull it?
It has one handle. Does that mean you work it with one hand and keep your other hand in your pocket?
 
The video in the thread Stacy linked shows pretty well how they operate.
 
It works better if you pull it. Often another handle is put out front, as it's good to steady the tool in use. I just guide the shank with my other hand.
 
They are surprisingly easy to make.

I used a 12" piece of 5/8" square stock. I drilled a 15 degree angled 3/8" hole 1/2" from one end for the cutter.

I made the cutters from 3/8" round W2 stock. I made them about 4" long. On the cutter end, the back side of them is ground flat for the set screw to seat on.

The bit and guide arm are locked in place with hardened 1" long, square head, 1/4-20 set screws. I turned a round wooden knob to go on the exposed shank of the cutter (like a large wood plane has). This allows controlled downward force and guidance by my left hand.

The edge guide I made was identical to Salem's. The hole was 1/4" and right next to the cutter.

I put a bend in the tool about 3" past the cutter, and ground the other end into a 4" long round tang. I turned a nice fat wood handle to go on the tang, and epoxied it on.

It is at a friend's place right now, but when he is done with it, I will post photos. Or, I may do a WIP on making a new one.
 
Before I make a sen I have an idea I would like to try. If it works out I will post in here with my results. Hopefully sometime next week I can find out!
 
Scrapers at by far the best method if you want to follow/mirror the spine profile (eg. tanto) If you want to cut a fuller down the middle of a blade (eg. dagger) I find it easier to grind it in. Using your drill press and a simple arbor made using a 1/2" bolt, you can mount various thickness angle grinder disks to cut your fuller.

Screw/clamp your blade to a piece of dressed hardwood, mark a center line on the timber to help you line it up. Adjust the drill press table so the disk is cutting at the right height and using many passes cut the fuller in. Regularly round/dress the edge of the disk to maintain the profile of the cut. I find it best to cut the fuller in before grinding the bevels.

Cleaning the fuller is same as mentioned above, shaped slip stones followed by wet and dry around a mandrel. Keep in mind the disk will cut a channel a bee's dick wider than itself. Also lateral pressure on your drill press spindle over a long time (years) can cause undue wear.














 
Last edited:
It always amazes me all of the out of the box techniques this community comes up with sometimes! "You mean I only have a toothpick to make this knife with?! - Puts on Macgyver face"
 
Del Raso: That looks great on the dagger!

Stacy, I for one will appreciate if you do manage to detail your process in a WIP.
 
Yeah, that dagger is slick! You can also mirror that grinding technique, but instead of the drill press, fabricate an adjustable spacer that clamps onto the "guard" boss of an angle grinder, then use grinding discs with a profiled edge to get long fullers into a sword blade. Works if the fuller follows the edge.
You can always clamp the blade to a piece of bar stock for a guide to follow for a straight fuller on a profiled blade.
 
Del Raso Knives said:
Scrapers at by far the best method if you want to follow/mirror the spine profile (eg. tanto) If you want to cut a fuller down the middle of a blade (eg. dagger) I find it easier to grind it in. Using your drill press and a simple arbor made using a 1/2" bolt, you can mount various thickness angle grinder disks to cut your fuller.

Screw/clamp your blade to a piece of dressed hardwood, mark a center line on the timber to help you line it up. Adjust the drill press table so the disk is cutting at the right height and using many passes cut the fuller in. Regularly round/dress the edge of the disk to maintain the profile of the cut. I find it best to cut the fuller in before grinding the bevels.

Cleaning the fuller is same as mentioned above, shaped slip stones followed by wet and dry around a mandrel. Keep in mind the disk will cut a channel a bee's dick wider than itself. Also lateral pressure on your drill press spindle over a long time (years) can cause undue wear.














Click to expand...

That blade(s) is sick. But if your cutting in the fuller befor you grind the edge bevels then you could even go ne step further and scrape them in befor you profile the blade. If the blade is straight bar stock it would be easy to cut a center fuller the length of the blade.
 
really neat, i am going to have make a sen.Might be some nice hex shafting laying around...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top