ANY BUFFING ADVICE OUT THERE?

[Craig Daniel]

I have done quite a few mirror polished blades lately but always end up with semi cloudy finish with buffer marks on the blade, I can never get the finish to be free from defects. I have been using 154 cm, ATS 34 and 1095, I work up to 1000 grit belts and then switch to 1000 grit cork loaded with green compound then to the buffer with a spiral sewn wheel loaded with green compound. I have fought with this for a few years and am determined to get that clear mirror polish down at all costs.

 

[john april]

hi. i used to go up to 2000 grit and buff, now i go up to 3000. it cuts the buffing time down and preserves the crisp edges. i do the 1000 cork like you do, then hand sand with 1000 , 2000, 3000 at 45 degree angles to the last scratch pattern, making sure all the scratches from the last grit have disappeared. when you do your 1000 cork belt, first coat the blade with dy chem marking/layout fluid ( or use a black sharpie permanent marker). this will help you be sure you did not miss any spots. i would do that twice before hand sanding. a mirror finish with no scratches you can see is very satisfying, but not easy.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Use a clean buff for the final buffing.
Store it in a sealed zip-lock bag with its polish.
If the polish and the buff are out on the bench, or used with lower grit polish, the buff will leave scratches and clouds.
Use enough, but not too much polish on the buff.
Clean the buff with a rake as needed to remove burned polish or cake ( packed polish).

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Can you launder buffing wheels?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Probably not.

 

[Craig Daniel]

Thanks for the help guys, I really appreciate it.

 

[LARRYZ10]

Texas Knife Supply sells a white compound called 51000 which is equivalent to 1300 to 1400 grit. I use it at the finish of my high polish and get good results especially on CPM 154. Start with a clean new buff for this compound. Larry

 

[Fred.Rowe]

The buffing head on this hand held buffer is made of well used Levi material stacked in alternate layers. The benefit of using one for final buffing is the buffing mop can be turned in a 360 pattern. It will remove small blush patterns on most highly buffed steels. It is excellent for guards and other smaller parts.

 

[Craig Daniel]

Appreciate the help guys.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

You can remove some "frosting" by hand polishing with Simichrome (or similar polish) after final buffing.

 

[Craig Daniel]

Frosting is one of the problems along with what looks like light buffer marks.