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Any Chance of a Special Run of the HRLM in G10???
- Thread starter DWRW
- Start date
Probably mostly looks.
I think you have to see them both together first hand to understand.
Some people might not agree.
I have seen other companies polish up Micarta very nicely - and smooth.
However, the honest truth is Swamp Rat micarta is a little fuzzy.
I can't really describe. the difference real well, but the G10 has a noticably higher level of finish quality.
An extreme example might be like comparing a piece of pine sanded with 80 grit to a piece of polished Hemitite. (???).
For the most part, it is probably more about look. The finish quality just looks better.
Feel is much more subjective. The G10 seems denser and heavier. I don't normally request weight. So, I don't prefer it because of dense and heavy.
The G10 and micarta do have a slightly different feel. The micarta may feel a little more grippy. Probably from fuzzy canvas. The G10 would be pretty slick, but the grooves makes it plenty grippy. The both feel nice enough, just different.
I don't know if that helps, but I tried.
I normally am a big fan of both materials, but I would prefer less fuzz on my micarta.
.
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 1,119
I would really like to see some additions to the standard black Micarta, also. Reds, Greens, Blues, would be great, with a smooth finish. I think they would be big sellers(of course). I would probably duplicate all the knives I now have, with the new handles, and then some. I recently placed an order for a ManDu with Black/Black G-10. I can't wait to get it! TC
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2000
- Messages
- 45,835
I like the G10 on the Ratmandu, but I'd actually like a black micarta as well.
The micarta just feels a little softer in hand, as tough as it is. And it has more of a "grippy" feel as well, especially when wet.
As for the "fuzzy" factor of SR micarta, I think it varies a lot from knife to knife. I don't have that sense at all with a RD, RM, RW, HRLM, and SS. I've only gotten one or two knives from SR that seemed a little "fuzzy" with respect to the micarta.
YMMV.
The micarta just feels a little softer in hand, as tough as it is. And it has more of a "grippy" feel as well, especially when wet.
As for the "fuzzy" factor of SR micarta, I think it varies a lot from knife to knife. I don't have that sense at all with a RD, RM, RW, HRLM, and SS. I've only gotten one or two knives from SR that seemed a little "fuzzy" with respect to the micarta.
YMMV.
- Joined
- May 25, 2001
- Messages
- 1,119
Hi Greg:
not two minutes ago, I got my Black/Black G-10 in the mail from Eric, and I just opened your Email.
I really do like it. I know what you mean about the Black Micarta. I always refer to it as Grey, myself.
I do have enough blades with the black Micarta. I'm holding the knife in my hand right now, and it does have a real nice feel to it with the G-10. I hope that Eric offers more colors in the G-10, and Micarta, and I would prefer them smooth. I'll take a few photos later and put them up, and if anyone does not have a RatManDu, you should have at least one! I thank Eric, again, for getting this right out to me. Always a pleasure to deal with. TC
not two minutes ago, I got my Black/Black G-10 in the mail from Eric, and I just opened your Email.
I really do like it. I know what you mean about the Black Micarta. I always refer to it as Grey, myself.
I do have enough blades with the black Micarta. I'm holding the knife in my hand right now, and it does have a real nice feel to it with the G-10. I hope that Eric offers more colors in the G-10, and Micarta, and I would prefer them smooth. I'll take a few photos later and put them up, and if anyone does not have a RatManDu, you should have at least one! I thank Eric, again, for getting this right out to me. Always a pleasure to deal with. TC
I got my Ratmandu a few days ago, black/black G10. The very first thing I noticed when I grabbed the handle was that along the ridges of the scales, I can feel the small bits of "glass" fibers sticking up and pricking at my skin. I do not know if it is just not sanded good enough at the factory, or if this will always be there. Can I sand it down so I do not feel like I am grabbing "fiberglass" when I hold onto the knife?
I heard you talking about the G10, so I decided that would be better, but I did not know it would be like this. I am wondering if I should go with canvas micarta instead?
I just looked at my Mandu again, and the ridges definitly have a catchy feel to them, only going in one direction, like hair growing on a face, smooth one way, rough the other. NOW, on the edges of the scales, it appears it was sanded, and it is as smooth as a baby's butt. THAT I like. I guess I should try and sand the ridges. Now, what do I sand it with if this is glass?
I posted this at the swamp rat boards, but did not get much response, as to if anyone else notices this, or if I am just being picky. I am going to try and sand it down with some 660 grit.
**Update**
Ok used the sand paper:
Good news: It seems to have done the trick, nice feeling now.
Bad news: I took down a good bit of material VERY quickly, I was shocked how quickly it took it down.
***Update on update***
Ok after close examination, there is still some catching of the skin on portions of the handle. Mainly where I was very conservative with sanding as to not reduce too much of the handle. Will work it a little more.
I heard you talking about the G10, so I decided that would be better, but I did not know it would be like this. I am wondering if I should go with canvas micarta instead?
I just looked at my Mandu again, and the ridges definitly have a catchy feel to them, only going in one direction, like hair growing on a face, smooth one way, rough the other. NOW, on the edges of the scales, it appears it was sanded, and it is as smooth as a baby's butt. THAT I like. I guess I should try and sand the ridges. Now, what do I sand it with if this is glass?
I posted this at the swamp rat boards, but did not get much response, as to if anyone else notices this, or if I am just being picky. I am going to try and sand it down with some 660 grit.
**Update**
Ok used the sand paper:
Good news: It seems to have done the trick, nice feeling now.
Bad news: I took down a good bit of material VERY quickly, I was shocked how quickly it took it down.
***Update on update***
Ok after close examination, there is still some catching of the skin on portions of the handle. Mainly where I was very conservative with sanding as to not reduce too much of the handle. Will work it a little more.
- Joined
- Oct 29, 2005
- Messages
- 18,769
Yikes! As I understand it, G-10 dust is considered toxic and shouldn't be inhaled. Take precautions.
Yikes! As I understand it, G-10 dust is considered toxic and shouldn't be inhaled. Take precautions.
Yeah, I put on a dust mask, laid down a damp paper towel, put on rubber gloves, and sanded away. I still have some more sanding to do though. I do wonder what would be the best thing to buff this with though?
Kylun,
If you are taking the material down too much, I would consider a much finer grade of sandpaper. And/or possibly reconsider your technique.
.... not trying to sound too critical or judgemental here... just making some assumptions. Bear with me.
Try at least 400 grit and maybe 600-800 grit or higher. You can usually find 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper at auto stores.
Most of the big box hardware stores won't carry over 400 grit since you don't usually use them for woodworking.
I would think 600 - 800 would be sufficient. 400 grit might be fine enough, but 400 will probably still leave the G10 a little dull.
I would think the 400 could just be lightly used to knock off any pricklies and follow with 600 - 800 to buff it up a little more.
If you can't find 600 - 800 grit or higher, you might try 400 grit followed with 0000 steel wool (????). Or just try 000 wool followed by 0000 wool (????).
I am pretty confident you shouldn't need 1500 - 2000 for G10 or micarta.
1000 grit .... not likely needed, but maybe preferred (???).
1500 - 2000 grits will "start" to put a mirror finish on steel. You shouldn't need that much polish. Plus, the finer grit papers at an auto store cost more than the common grits at the big hardware store. I would probably recommend either not purchasing over 800 grit or purchase and don't open unless you feel you need to and then return if you don't use. I have some for when I want to polish certain materials. But, I think it is expensive. I don't like paying for it.
* Steel wool is cheap.
Also, when sanding detail and small contours, I find it is better (for me) if I rip small pieces about 1" - 2" and just sand with the tips of my fingers or side of my thumb. Same with steel wool. I don't use the whole pad for detail work. I just rip small pieces.
If you are sanding the whole handle all at once, especially if using 150, 220 or even 320 grit paper, you will likely be "Re-Shaping" the handle.
* Based on your description of the pricklies, I would think you would only need to focus your sanding efforts in the grooves. I would think this would be a common area for "fuzzies" or in this case "Pricklies" to happen. It is easier to sand and polish the more exposed areas. Those grooves are cut with carbide cutters on a CNC machine, then I am sure the Busse/Swamp Rat crew goes over the handles with some sort of wheel or belt sander or buffer. The raised areas probably just got cleaned up more and the grooves just got missed a little. The fix should be easy enough with the right tools and technique.
400 grit would probably fall in the middle of reshaping vs. smoothing and polishing.
I would think steel wool would actually work well with G10. For pricklies on G10, I am guessing that 000 followed with 0000 would work very well and steel wool is cheap.
3M and some other companies make buffing wheels and pads as well out of various synthetic materials with abrasives embedded in the material.
I know many people are using the Scotch-Brite buffing wheels for micarta and steel. I think they can be used with a drill. But, I am not familiar enough with the various grits on those type of wheels. You would probably have to do a search for Scotch-Brite, a little trial and error or somebody else would need to post.
I have been meaning to try the Scotch-Brite wheels. I am sure they would be great for many different uses on steel and various handle materials. I just can't advise on the different grits.
Off of the top of my head, I think the following sandpaper grits and steel wool grades are about alike:
00 steel wool pretty close to 320 - 400 grit sandpaper
000 steel wool pretty close to 400 - 600 grit sandpaper
0000 steel wool pretty close to 800 - 1000 grit sandpaper
Here is a decent link explaining 3M pads, wool and paper grits and uses:
http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf
I am guessing a little here, but I think a material that might buff micarta might actually dull G10 because of the difference in material charactieristics. You might need one grit finer for G10 compared to micarta (????).
I have two of the G10 models and I have not been able to find any issues with pricklies. All of mine are very smooth.
I would think it would be very easy to remove little pricklies from G10. So, my explanation may be overblown and probably took me at least 5 times longer to type than it would take to remove the pricklies, but I hope it helps.
Good luck.
Sorry to hear you are having issues. I love my G10.
.
If you are taking the material down too much, I would consider a much finer grade of sandpaper. And/or possibly reconsider your technique.
.... not trying to sound too critical or judgemental here... just making some assumptions. Bear with me.
Try at least 400 grit and maybe 600-800 grit or higher. You can usually find 600, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper at auto stores.
Most of the big box hardware stores won't carry over 400 grit since you don't usually use them for woodworking.
I would think 600 - 800 would be sufficient. 400 grit might be fine enough, but 400 will probably still leave the G10 a little dull.
I would think the 400 could just be lightly used to knock off any pricklies and follow with 600 - 800 to buff it up a little more.
If you can't find 600 - 800 grit or higher, you might try 400 grit followed with 0000 steel wool (????). Or just try 000 wool followed by 0000 wool (????).
I am pretty confident you shouldn't need 1500 - 2000 for G10 or micarta.
1000 grit .... not likely needed, but maybe preferred (???).
1500 - 2000 grits will "start" to put a mirror finish on steel. You shouldn't need that much polish. Plus, the finer grit papers at an auto store cost more than the common grits at the big hardware store. I would probably recommend either not purchasing over 800 grit or purchase and don't open unless you feel you need to and then return if you don't use. I have some for when I want to polish certain materials. But, I think it is expensive. I don't like paying for it.
* Steel wool is cheap.
Also, when sanding detail and small contours, I find it is better (for me) if I rip small pieces about 1" - 2" and just sand with the tips of my fingers or side of my thumb. Same with steel wool. I don't use the whole pad for detail work. I just rip small pieces.
If you are sanding the whole handle all at once, especially if using 150, 220 or even 320 grit paper, you will likely be "Re-Shaping" the handle.
* Based on your description of the pricklies, I would think you would only need to focus your sanding efforts in the grooves. I would think this would be a common area for "fuzzies" or in this case "Pricklies" to happen. It is easier to sand and polish the more exposed areas. Those grooves are cut with carbide cutters on a CNC machine, then I am sure the Busse/Swamp Rat crew goes over the handles with some sort of wheel or belt sander or buffer. The raised areas probably just got cleaned up more and the grooves just got missed a little. The fix should be easy enough with the right tools and technique.
400 grit would probably fall in the middle of reshaping vs. smoothing and polishing.
I would think steel wool would actually work well with G10. For pricklies on G10, I am guessing that 000 followed with 0000 would work very well and steel wool is cheap.
3M and some other companies make buffing wheels and pads as well out of various synthetic materials with abrasives embedded in the material.
I know many people are using the Scotch-Brite buffing wheels for micarta and steel. I think they can be used with a drill. But, I am not familiar enough with the various grits on those type of wheels. You would probably have to do a search for Scotch-Brite, a little trial and error or somebody else would need to post.
I have been meaning to try the Scotch-Brite wheels. I am sure they would be great for many different uses on steel and various handle materials. I just can't advise on the different grits.
Off of the top of my head, I think the following sandpaper grits and steel wool grades are about alike:
00 steel wool pretty close to 320 - 400 grit sandpaper
000 steel wool pretty close to 400 - 600 grit sandpaper
0000 steel wool pretty close to 800 - 1000 grit sandpaper
Here is a decent link explaining 3M pads, wool and paper grits and uses:
http://academic.evergreen.edu/projects/biophysics/technotes/fabric/finish.pdf
I am guessing a little here, but I think a material that might buff micarta might actually dull G10 because of the difference in material charactieristics. You might need one grit finer for G10 compared to micarta (????).
I have two of the G10 models and I have not been able to find any issues with pricklies. All of mine are very smooth.
I would think it would be very easy to remove little pricklies from G10. So, my explanation may be overblown and probably took me at least 5 times longer to type than it would take to remove the pricklies, but I hope it helps.
Good luck.
Sorry to hear you are having issues. I love my G10.
.