Any danger in a full convex?

schmittie

schmittie

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Nov 28, 2009
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Howdy gentlemen.

I have a question on a full convex. I have a Fiddleback Forge Bushfinger. It's saber convex ground, O-1 with a secondary bevel. With my usual sharpening (sandpaper over strop) and stroping with black and green compounds, I am slowly but surely loosing the secondary bevel. Is there any danger to this? Should I try to reapply the bevel? (Maybe my technique is a bit off but it's still shaving sharp)

My uses for it usually revolve around deer hunting and bushcraft fire prep, if that makes a difference. Thanks!
 
Andy does use excellent steel and his HT is spot on. No critisizing there for sure.

I've never had a full convex knife before and didn't know if it would be more prone to chipping.
 
I have full convex knives with cross sections so thick directly behind the blade that they'd barely cut before I performed major material removal, and have half-height bevels that are too thin and prone to damage. There's nothing inherent about the strength/weakness of convex, flat or hollow grinds, it just depends on your particular geometry. My GB axes are convex ground and feature far finer edge geometries than any hollow ground John Greco field knife (that hasn't been modified).

If the grind gets so thin, with use, that it's fracturing in use, then force a higher angle by grinding a steeper secondary bevel on both sides, and then begin blending that back in with the overall curve. This can be done in literally a couple of minutes--making edges "thicker" is always faster than thinning them out.
 
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