Any experience with 80CrV2?

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Jan 15, 2012
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I have done a few searches and found a thread on this steel by Rick Marchand, from 2011 but no conclusion was ever given. I had not heard of it before really but my steel supplier has started carrying it and it looks like it could be a good solid performer, especially for larger blades. I have also read that it a like a jacked up 5160, an L6 without nickel, or basically L2. I may pick some up but I'm wondering what your thoughts or experiences are. I would likely be having it heat treated by a buddy who has kilns and two salt pots so I'm not overly concerned with heat treating myself, although any info I could provide to him may help if he isn't familiar with it.
 
I just got some in so wont be able to add anything for a few days probably. Sounded good so I figured I would give it a shot for a couple of choppers and see how it does.
 
I have made about 5 heat treated blades with 80CrV2 but they are waiting for final sanding and handles. I have heard encouraging reports of well known makers who have made great blades from it. .
 
80CrV2 is VERY VERY similar to the 1080+ from AKS. I started using that stuff as my first steel, and absolutely love it. I don't have any forging experience, but the steel performs very well. You will love it, I'm sure. Wish I could give you more of an objective reply! I love the fact that it is euctoid, and has a bit of chromium and vanadium in it! That Chromium Vanadium Carbon steel Case used ( and Cold Steel with their 0170-6c) is some mighty fine (no pun intended) stuff. And I think this is close to it.
 
Canadian knifemaker has it now. I ordered some to try it out. The manganese is lower than 1084, it has vanadium like W2, and a bit of chromium and nickel.

Typical Chemistry: Carbon 0.81 Silicon 0.32 Manganese 0.42 Phosphorus 0.006 Sulfur 0.002 Chromium 0.54 Nickel .075 Molybdenum 0.016 Vanadium 0.17
 
80CrV2 is VERY VERY similar to the 1080+ from AKS.
Good catch. 80CrV2 and 1080+ are the same steel.

When we first sold the steel in 2006 many knifemakers thought 80CrV2 was from China and would not buy it. We changed the name to 1080+ and it has sold well since.

If you look at the composition it is close to 1080 with chromium and vanadium added. It is also close to 52100 with a little less carbon and chromium and vanadium added. It could be call 52100 lite.

Tbl--Elements.gif
Tbl-1080+.gif
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Tbl-52100-Latrobe.gif
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I've got a stick of 80crv2, and am somewhat new at knifemaking.

Would the heat treat be the same as 1084? Or, do the other added ingredients change the temps required for proper ht?
 
After normalizing, I soaked mine for 5 minutes (1/4" thick blades) @ 1485˚ with a quench in ambient Parks 50. Then three 2 hour temper cycles @ 400˚. YMMV.
 
Ok, so we know it's pretty good stuff. But, is it a Hamon possible steel? Reason I ask is, I used it on a skinner/hunter I'm making for a friend and I did the whole furnace cement clay dealio, in an attempt to produce a cool Hamon. Coming out of the quench, I scraped off the clay and it appeared that I was going to end up with a really cool Hamon. After doing a bit of finish grinding and a little sanding, I'm not seeing anything remotely Hamon-like. I'm thinking the blade fully hardened, which really doesn't bother me at all, as I know the heat treat was good and that it'll be a nice blade.
 
I'd be curious to know myself. I have edge quenched and clayed 80CrV2 blades. When I knock off the scale it looks like there is a pretty distinct line there. When I do my final grinding, bringing the edge down to "almost sharp", the line is less noticeable or disappears altogether. That doesn't mean you won't get a hamon. When hand sanding I start to see the line again. I haven't sanded any of my blades high enough to begin to polish yet. I think if you are going to get a hamon it will reveal itself in the polishing stages and etch. I'd be interested to hear from people who have actually finished knives from this steel and maybe they can post some pictures as well.
 
While I don't have any picture to post, this stuff will give you a hamon. Now the mangangese content is at .42, but not so high that you won't get one. Also, there is a bit of Chromium in there, .60, but you still will get a hamon. Understand that it won't be the type you can get from low Mn 1095, or W1/W2, but you should get a nice distinct hardening line. I've done two hamons with 1080+. Lovely steel. From what I recall, the hamon was visible right out of quench and temper, kind of disappeared while sanding, but came right back out with the vinegar etch. Not spectacular, but definitely doable.
 
I have done a few searches and found a thread on this steel by Rick Marchand, from 2011 but no conclusion was ever given. I had not heard of it before really but my steel supplier has started carrying it and it looks like it could be a good solid performer, especially for larger blades. I have also read that it a like a jacked up 5160, an L6 without nickel, or basically L2. I may pick some up but I'm wondering what your thoughts or experiences are. I would likely be having it heat treated by a buddy who has kilns and two salt pots so I'm not overly concerned with heat treating myself, although any info I could provide to him may help if he isn't familiar with it.
I know it's used in more expensive impact tools, like high quality camp axes and tomahawks. Someone told me it was the same as the Ka-Bar/Becker 1095 Cro-Van. I'd have to do some research to see how similar those steels are. I also heard it was the same as Cold Steel's older Carbon V steel.
 
Salem made this for me 6 or 7 years ago and it has seen dozens of hours of the kind of use it was designed for.
80CrV2 is excellent for a knife like this, that much I can say for sure.
rPRRudP.jpg
 
Carbon V was 50100B supposedly? 1095 Cro Van, 0176-C, Carbon V, etc were supposedly pretty much the same steels. 80CRV2 is close, but lower carbon and more nickel it looks like. I've played with 50100B a bit; I have 2 bars of .105" x 2.75x36 and 2 .145" x3.5" x 36" bars. Used the thinner stuff for a nice 6" petty knife for someone whose relative worked at Sharon steel, so that was pretty cool! 80CRV2 is close, but there are some differences,

Screenshot 2026-01-23 032235.jpg

I've also done several knives in 80CRV2 and it is a nice steel, very tough, takes a wicked edge, but decarbs badly during heat treating if not protected! I learned the hard way when I did the normalizing, DET anneal and quenching without protecting it. My blanks went from .135" oversized 1/8" to around .095" or so after grinding the decarb off! It was often used in carbon Swedish Puukko knives as well. Too bad Buderus closed; a lot of those steels will probably be much harder to find and get unless someone else takes them over! Lots of people are using it for swords and bigger stuff as well as smaller EDC type sized knives. Very good all around carbon steel!
 
Carbon V was 50100B supposedly? 1095 Cro Van, 0176-C, Carbon V, etc were supposedly pretty much the same steels. 80CRV2 is close, but lower carbon and more nickel it looks like. I've played with 50100B a bit; I have 2 bars of .105" x 2.75x36 and 2 .145" x3.5" x 36" bars. Used the thinner stuff for a nice 6" petty knife for someone whose relative worked at Sharon steel, so that was pretty cool! 80CRV2 is close, but there are some differences,

View attachment 3084188

I've also done several knives in 80CRV2 and it is a nice steel, very tough, takes a wicked edge, but decarbs badly during heat treating if not protected! I learned the hard way when I did the normalizing, DET anneal and quenching without protecting it. My blanks went from .135" oversized 1/8" to around .095" or so after grinding the decarb off! It was often used in carbon Swedish Puukko knives as well. Too bad Buderus closed; a lot of those steels will probably be much harder to find and get unless someone else takes them over! Lots of people are using it for swords and bigger stuff as well as smaller EDC type sized knives. Very good all around carbon steel!
I appreciate the detailed explanations. And you're correct. Certain steel types get more expensive if companies don't use them. It sounds like 80CrV2 is an upgrade to 5160 spring steel, and 9260 spring steel, which were often used in impact weapons. I noticed a lot of the expensive tomahawk makers use 80CrV2. And while you'd think SK5 steel (roughly 1080HC) would be decent for tomahawks, because it's good for large fixed blades, the sharp edges of the tomahawk tend to chip on impact.
 
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