Any Gerber-Paul Mod.2 owners out there?

Joined
Jul 19, 1999
Messages
443
I'm happy. I'm more than happy. I'm estatic!!
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I've finally got my Gerber-Paul Model 2 series 2. Beautiful knife. All those reflective chrome-like surfaces. Solid, heavy feel. None of that super space-age zytel or air-craft aluminum. Solid steel (of the 400 series, the card says). Well not quite. Dealer said the black scales are micarta. But the most important part of a folding knife: Wonderfully tight and sure lock up with extremely smooth action. It opens and closes so smoothly, it's a pleasure to fold and unfold it over and over. And I've been playing with it so much. Haven't put it down since I got it.

But now, important questions. The card says "Made from 400 series steel" Any idea which particular 400 steel it is? The folks at AG Russell (whom I bought it from) says that their version uses 425 in the blade. (No letter designated). But this is the original Gerber-Paul. Does it use the same steel?

Also, does any one know how the locking mechanism works? (Blame it on being an engineer. I always need to find out how it works.) Can the end user adjust the mechanism if necessary? Can I open it up to clean the mechanism?

In addition, I understand that this knife is no longer being made. And even the model which AG Russell is making from left over parts is limited. Should I be using it hard? Or would I be doing a great injustice if I didn't keep it in mint condition?
 
Steelwolf, I own 3 Paul knives one of the original series and two model 2's. It is my experience that these knives are solid, well made working knives. Altough I have "retired" them I am very satisfied with their durability. I believe that the first series used 440A stainless and as you thought the series 2 has 425 stainless steel. Whatever steel is used I would say that I am very satisfied with its performance. Enjoy your Paul knife, I am very pleased with mine!
 
I've had the Gerber Paul II knife for over a year.The steel is 425 and I'm pretty sure the scales are zytel not mircata.I like the finish on the blade and its very sharp.There are many models with other scales-wood,ivory,bone ect.I think A.G.Russell had some of these.
I was lucky enough to sample a custom Paul at a knife show.It was extraordinary,unbelievably smooth and expensive.Too bad Gerber stoped production.
 
Steelwolf, I've got one, a Final Production Run that I bought from AGR. I love the knife, fit and finish is amazing, fun to play with, and just beautiful. Mine has never been used, I have no need to. The lock is a little finicky, I had to send mine back once to AGR to loosen it up, it couldn't have been from anything more than dust from the presentation box.

For anyone that wants to take a peek, http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=254126&a=1889225&p=16593196
Sorry the mirror polished blade didn't show up better from the scan.

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"Will work 4 Knives!"
Homepage: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=254126
 
I have a first year production of the Paul II and it is a neat little knife. Like PhilL's, mine is a little tight and the lock is finicky. It's kind of like a Luger, beautifully made but must be kept very clean or it fails to work.


Mike
 
Any ideas on which particular 425 steel? From what I understand, the earlier types of 425 (A,B,C) were not really that great as a blade steel. Maybe that came from carbon steel purists?
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'Cause whatever it's made of, the edge seems to hold similar to my SAK Adventurer, which is pretty good. Maybe it's 425V (if there is such a steel). I hear all sorts of good things about 440V when I remember discussions that basically condem 440A.

MNH, PhiL (or anybody else) have you actually tried to open it up to adjust or clean the mechanism? Was it easy? Any springs that are ready to pop out and disappear in to the farthest corner of the room?

BTW, I really love it, but one thing I've noticed about myself and this knife. The chrome like surface just begs to shine. So I get really upset when I start to put all those nasty finger prints all over the knife.
Anyone have this idiosyncracy too? I notice that I'm not so particular with my SAK, maybe because it's really used and scratched, but I am with my AMK Quicksilver, which is practically NIB.
 
Steelwolf,

I'm seeing pretty much what you are seeing. The handle slabs come off pretty easily. beyond that who knows? There is a small hole in the ring that surrounds the lock button which looks like it might accept a small tool to allow the ring to be turned off. The instructions however do not suggest that this is a good idea.

According to the instruction/information sheet that came with my knife "This folder is manufactured using various 400 series corrosion resistant steels that are heat treated and tempered to their specific hardness."

If anyone would like to take a shot at translating that into English I would love to know what it says. It almost looks like they used a random sentence generator to put it together.

It also says that "The handle onlay are made from an engineering alloy of carbon fiber and nylon resin for superior strenth, light weight, and durability." and that "The onlay is secured to the side plate with a precision threaded fastener." (they look like Allen screws to me
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Mike
 
Steelwolf, no sorry I never attempted taking it apart, in fact I was hoping someone would know how to do it. When I had a problem I sent it back to AGR thye fixed it and sent it back "No Charge" great service, but I would prefer to be able to do it myself. I'm not adventurist enough to just start taking it apart, not knowing what tools I need or what to expect inside. My understanding is they stopped production because it is a complicated lock.
 
Mike, about the 400 series steels, there are many different types of steels, quite a few of which start with the number 4. 416, 420 425, 440 are just a few I know of. Some of them also have letter designations to denote that although the steel has been modified to improve some of its characteristics. For example, 416 is a good spring steel, but doesn't get hard enough to make a good cutting edge, so it is always hardened enough to make a springy liner, but no one attempts to make it hard enough to hold a good cutting edge, cause it just wouldn't work. The 440 steels, especially 440V is supposed to be the best of the stainless steels to be made in to a blade. But somehow,it doesn't make a good spring.

So by saying that line in the manual, they mean to assure us that they haven't tried to use 416 in the blade and 440V in the spring.
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As for the rest of the stuff they wrote, perhaps G-10 or Micarta was pretty impressive stuff back when they first started manufacturing this knife.
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and Allen keys were new (just like torx screws were considered cutting edge stuff until just recently.)

PhilL, it is a complicated lock and that is the challenge!
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I hope somebody out there, who has tried to open the lock, sees this and replies with advice before I do something stupid.
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Steelwolf,

Yea, I know there are a lot of 440 steels, and that they can be hardened differently, But Gerber isn't going to tell us which steel they used for what, or how hard they made it. Compared to Spyderco or Benchmade that print the steel type on the blade, and list the hardness in their catalogue.

To my untrained eye it just looked like they (Gerber) intended that sentence to fill a required amount of space on the paper. Anatomically and grammatically it is a very nice sentence. It only fails to convey information.

Anyway, I don't know if your knife came new in the box or not. If you do not have the original paperwork drop me an email and I will scan the papers that came with mine and email them back to you.


Happy trails,

Mike
 
Mike, Thanks for the offer. I managed to get mine NIB with all the paperwork, etc. Looks like the previous owner only bought it to play with, but never used it.

And that sentance must have been written by a Microsoft engineer wannabe, 'cause it's technically correct and very impressive sounding, but contains no useful information whatsoever.
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