Any good techniques for drilling pin holes?

Phillip Patton

Phillip Patton

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Jul 25, 2005
Messages
5,359
I keep seeing gaps around handle pins, every now and then, and I'm getting tired of it. I tried the search function (why bother anymore?) and checked the sticky thread, and I can't find anything.

I just did one of my JS knives, and one end of one pin has some gaposis. Aargh!! :mad: I tried to fix it, and it is better, but I may have to nix this knife, or take these pins out and put bigger ones in.

Help me! How can I prevent this? Would drilling the hole undersized, then reaming it, work?
 
The best luck I have had is to use copper wire for pins (which I like a lot), as it expands easily with a couple of hammer taps to make a tight fit in the hole.
 
Check your pin stock diameter with a mic. and match it with your drill bits. Cut the pin a little long and put a point on the pin, and use 320 grit sand paper to sand the first quarter of the pin. You'll drive the pin in past that but it helps to get it started. Use slow set epoxy as a lube. It will help the pins slide through a tight hole and there not going anywhere once its set. When you tap the pins through have the knife setting on a folded towel or a piece of foam or anything that the pin can actually drive in to and takes some of the shock off the handle material. Really helps with brittle material. I really like using 3/32" and 1/16" pin stock and this method has helped me not ruin a few handles. Hope this helps I'm never sure if I describe anything well or if I'm just rambling.
 
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Your drill press bearings might be worn or if you sharpen your own bits then you may be getting the point off a bit.
Del
 
delbert ealy said:
Your drill press bearings might be worn or if you sharpen your own bits then you may be getting the point off a bit.
Del
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Actually, the shaft is bent. Do you think that might matter? :eek: :D Maybe I should get a new shaft and/or drill press?

Yes, I do "sharpen" my own bits, but I'm not sure I've done this one yet...


Steve Hayden said:
The best luck I have had is to use copper wire for pins (which I like a lot), as it expands easily with a couple of hammer taps to make a tight fit in the hole.
Click to expand...

Hmm. I'll keep that in mind for when I use copper, unfortunately, stainless doesn't peen so well. Also, I'd like to avoid peening if possible, because I have a hard time keeping them round....



bikermikearchery said:
Check your pin stock diameter with a mic. and match it with your drill bits. Cut the pin a little long and put a point on the pin, and use 320 grit sand paper to sand the first quarter of the pin. You'll drive the pin in past that but it helps to get it started. Use slow set epoxy as a lube. It will help the pins slide through a tight hole and there not going anywhere once its set. When you tap the pins through have the knife setting on a folded towel or a piece of foam or anything that the pin can actually drive in to and takes some of the shock off the handle material. Really helps with brittle material. I really like using 3/32" and 1/16" pin stock and this method has helped me not ruin a few handles. Hope this helps I'm never sure if I describe anything well or if I'm just rambling.
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When you match the pin size to the drill, do you want them exactly the same, or the drill a little bigger or smaller?
 
Try drilling to the pin size then sand down the pin to a smaller diameter. That's what I just did on one.
 
T Blade said:
Try drilling to the pin size then sand down the pin to a smaller diameter. That's what I just did on one.
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Thats what I do. I rough the pin to size on the rotary platen and then chuck it up in the drill and use sandpaer to finish it up..
 
A nice sharp drill a little bigger than the pin ie: 1/8" pin =#30 drill.
5/32" pin = #20 drill,3/16" pin #10 drill use a good amount of clear epoxy on the pin.Pin the slabs before you do your final sanding .

Richard
 
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If the drill press had any run out or any problem with the shaft or chuck, it will make a tapered hole.....TAPERD THE WRONG WAY. The back side of the hole will be larger than the entrance side.
Stacy
 
Phillip Patton said:
When you match the pin size to the drill, do you want them exactly the same, or the drill a little bigger or smaller?
Click to expand...

I use the same size but sand the first part of the pin with fine emery. on an inch long pin I sand about 1/4" Using epoxy for a lube is a big help. My last batch of 4 knives had 12, 3/32" pins each. it looked good but a PITA
 
bladsmth said:
If the drill press had any run out or any problem with the shaft or chuck, it will make a tapered hole.....TAPERD THE WRONG WAY. The back side of the hole will be larger than the entrance side.
Stacy
Click to expand...

The hole in question is tapered the other way. What would that mean?


undersize drill and reamer. ;)

Bill
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That's what I'm leaning toward, Bill. What size drill bit for a 3/16" reamer?
I have zero experience with reamers.

Thanks for your help, guys!


I did go out last night and bought a new drill press. My old one is about 50 years old, and besides the shaft being bent, the bearings aren't what they used to be....
 
After I drill the holes for my pins I use a taper pin reamer to enlarge the holes. I cut my pins to be proud of the handle about 2/3 the diameter of the pins. When setting the pins a heavier blow will begin to swell the pin over its length; many light blows spreads only the top of the pin where it receives impact from the hammer. I usually don't profile my handles until I have set the pins giving maximum strength to the handle material to avoid cracking.

With Ivory and pearl I don't taper the holes and I set my pins with lighter blows. When using Ivory and pearl I tend to use silver annealed or dead soft. I usually leave less material proud of the handle, 1/2 or 1/3 the diameter of the pin.

Check out riveting by Grace Horne on u-tube...Take CAre...Ed
 
Make sure the drill bit is the same size as the pin stock. Firmly clamp work to prevent any wobble or the hole will be oversized as a result of wobble. Go easy and use cutting oil to keep things cool.

Epoxy handle materials and gently press in the pins. Let glue set, then peen pins. Grind off, if the peening is even then there should be no trace of the pin on bolsters such as brass stock pinned with brass rod.
 
lot of input here , hope it helps you . My 2 cents . If you are talking bolster , then I found Bufford's reply above to work great . On handle material , I oversize ( with a wire #ed drill bit ) the hole in the blade tang . Drill the handle pin size and use a reamer to clean the hole . Since pin material is always larger , sand the pin until you can push it thru the hole . I do not press or peen with a hammer , split to much material that way . At this point, like someone else already said , epoxy is the answer . I have had great success with Devcon 2 ton slow set . As another said , it acts as a lube and like superglue it absorbs the color ( so to speak ) of the handle material . If there is a gap only a microscope would see it . Thats just my way .
 
If you're drilling through a handle with hidden tang. When your bit drills through the steel tang, it is wallowing out the hole it just made in the handle material, the hole on the other side will be right. The larger the hole, the worst it will be, this is why I use 1/16" or 3/32" pins.

Drilling under size and ream will help.
 
Don Hanson III said:
If you're drilling through a handle with hidden tang. When your bit drills through the steel tang, it is wallowing out the hole it just made in the handle material, the hole on the other side will be right. The larger the hole, the worst it will be, this is why I use 1/16" or 3/32" pins.

Drilling under size and ream will help.
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Yes, this is exactly what's happening. I just ordered a 3/16" reamer from Sheffield, we'll see how that goes.

I should have said in the original post that I'm drilling through handle material with a hidden tang. But I appreciate all the advice given, I'm sure it will come in handy. Thanks guys! I think I'll have Dan Gray put this in his newbie thread. There's nothing in there about pins...
 
Good thread. When responders refer to "reamers" do they mean to use a slightly smaller drill bit to clean the hole? Or is there some special tool? Someone used the term "taper pin reamer".
 
Phil705 said:
Good thread. When responders refer to "reamers" do they mean to use a slightly smaller drill bit to clean the hole? Or is there some special tool? Someone used the term "taper pin reamer".
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It's a separate tool. Here's what they look like:

reamer-001.jpg



Some have straight flutes, some have spiral flutes, like the one in the picture.
 
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