any great canoe tripping axes?

H

Hassilov

Joined
Aug 7, 2005
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As I pack up my gear for a canoe trip next week I find myself disappointed with my options for axes. I own an Estwing 26" camping axe that I picked up at the last minute in Vancouver en route to a car camping trip to the Yukon. It's been ok as an axe... did the job it was supposed to. It weighs in at 3-1/2 lbs. That's somewhat heavy for canoe tripping but acceptable. Due to multiple portages, every pound carried counts. The longer handle is the main benefit of this axe - downsides are the head nicks easily, the vibration is pretty harsh and it gets wedged quite often. I also own a Bahco HUP-0.6-380 hatchet at approximately 1-1/2 lbs total. It has a thicker head and a great feeling hickory handle, well balanced - overall length is 15". I'm probably going to take this on the trip instead of the axe. I don't use this one as much as it's more work to split wood. The wood we use is either fallen pine or birch, diameters reaching 7", with cuts first made with a Trail Blazer 15" Sawvivor Saw. Both of these tools are feeling too compromised for my liking. What's the one axe out there that's best for my canoe trips?
 
It's hard to say. It seems you need something good at cutting and splitting. This is usually a big problem, due to different head weights and angles are made to do specific work. As I've said many times on this forum, I believe the large Fort Turner hammer pole tomahawk to be the best all around the trail and campsite. The cutting edge is about 4" long with a sturdy 18" handle. For $50 it won't break you either. It's what I would take. Just my 2 cents.
 
well... I'd like a long hickory handle for safety and shock absorbsion. And I want great balance and an edge that holds well. I'm not into a throwing axe. Since I posted I've been learning about the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe and the Scandinavian Forest Axe. Seems they'll remove limbs as well as anything. If they can split 6" dia. saw cut wood, then I'm sold. Probably on the longer handle one. The weight and length is comparable to my Estwing so it's acceptable to carry on portages (it gets strapped to the outside of my pack). It might be a good compliment to the Sawvivor, which I will also always carry. Cost-wise, I don't have a problem with investing in good equipment.

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In addition to firewood duties, I’ll need the axe to help create a portage trail I have planned to a couple of un-named lakes. I’m planning on marking the trail with painted blazes in the standard rectangular format but need to remove smallish trees, branches and bushes as necessary. The larger GB models are looking like standouts.
 
Throwing is only one of many uses of a tomahawk. In fact, it's best to think of it as a tool first and a toy second. The reason that I like the tomahawk is due to the thin blade. It's strong enough that it won't ever bend or break, but narrow enough to make deep, accurate cuts. It's just what I prefer; your milage may vary.
 
The longer handle is the main benefit of this axe - downsides are the head nicks easily, the vibration is pretty harsh and it gets wedged quite often.
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That is what I found as well. Makes a good beater axe though.

In addition to firewood duties, I’ll need the axe to help create a portage trail I have planned to a couple of un-named lakes. I’m planning on marking the trail with painted blazes in the standard rectangular format but need to remove smallish trees, branches and bushes as necessary
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A machete, even a small one (12") is many times more eficient fo this use in my opinion. They are light and cheap. Check out Bartueax, Tramontina, Ontario and Martindale models. The Martindale #2 Golok would be a decent choice and is on sale at Brigade Quartermaster for under $15.

Since I posted I've been learning about the Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe and the Scandinavian Forest Axe. Seems they'll remove limbs as well as anything. If they can split 6" dia. saw cut wood, then I'm sold. Probably on the longer handle one.
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You already have the answer you seek. The SFA is big enough for any task you are likely to encounter I would imagine. It will split 6" wood, but you have to factor in the type and length. Clear, straight graine woods? No problem. If you use the Scandinavian you can buck the wood into longer lengths, but the SFA will handle any campfire sized wood you would likely use.

A small machete and GB SFA will be lighter and more effective than the Estwing you currently carry.

When it comes to canoe camping information, Cliff Jacobson is my favorite writer and source of information. Guess what he heartily endorses for an axe? No suprises, it is Gransfors Bruk.
 
The SFA is big enough for any task you are likely to encounter...
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Glad to hear that. I was hoping the smaller and lighter one was suitable enough. Is the SFA awkward to swing two-handed?
 
Cliff Jacobson is a great writer...he has studied the gold standards in Calvin Rustrum and of course the great Bill Mason. In his book Expedition Canoeing he does indeed recommend the Gransfors small forest axe followed by the wild life hatchet as choice two.

This is some of what Cliff has to say about Axes:

"For years I relied on the all steel Estwing hatchet....then in 1998 my friend, Dick Person, who lives in a log cabin gave me a Gransfors Small Forest Axe, which is far superior to any ax I have ever used. It has a 19" hickory handle and a 1.5 pound head. It's hand forged, razor sharp (really!) blade is hardened to R57C, which is harder than conventional axes and as hard as most knives. An excellent sheath is provided."

He says more but you really need to get this book. Full of solid advice on gear and techniques. Enjoy the GB they are truly great tools...you made a great choice.
 
Hassilov said:
If they can split 6" dia. saw cut wood, then I'm sold.
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Unless the wood is in horrible condition like, dried and then soaked again, or just littered with ring and cross knots, the SFA will bust that clean without the need for a reverse poll strike.

If the wood is really bad you could always pack a small wedge or two, just shape them out of hardwood. If the axe gets stuck, use the wedges to open the wood to free it.

The steel in these axes will rust easily if wet, try to keep them covered with a thick layer of grease or similar.

-Cliff
 
Nice link by knifetester...even though you Americans can't spell a simple word like axe. I am a man of sudden enthusiasms and have an embarrasingly large collection of GB axes...had to build a special hanger in the garage to house them. When I use a tool that feels perfected I go a little overboard. Remington 660 magnum carbines, Japanese saws, Wegner designed hunting knives, Arctic Oven Tents, Old Town Trippers and GB axes have engendered this crazy collecting response in me. I have fought the over-acquisition syndrome in some cases but not with GB's.

I have bought 7- GB's from the Mini to the Splitting Maul and I have been very happy with all of them. As in the article I have a special weakness for the mini.

I live in the Boreal forest and we probably have very similar wood species to those found in Sweden. Certainly for small Birch and softwoods the SFA has sufficient splitting power. Even the mini with a baton is surprisingly effective and so damn cute.

If you are most concerned about splitting the small splitting axe is fantastic. It's relatively handy, can be easily used one handed and is the axe I take on winter sledding trips to feed the wood stove. Not an all-round design but a very efficient splitter.

Careful though it's easy to suddenly find axes all over the house and getting the "look" from the spouse.
 
I just spoke with the Canadian office of GB in Burlington, Ontario about my order. A very nice woman took my call. She is the sole person in the office and apparently broke her ankle last week so the order shipments are getting quite backed up - she has to stay off her foot as much as possible. I'm leaving this Sunday on my canoe trip and Canada Post delivery would be possibly mid-week, too late for my trip. But, she said she would courier it to asap so I can get to bring it with me! That's pretty nice service.

People... thanks for the links and advice. I've read them all. Cliff, your posts are among the most informative.

I will post when I'm back from the trip. I'm going to demand the others in my group treat this baby with respect. As for my hatchet, I'll give that to my parents for their garden work. I'll still have the Estwing 26 for dirty work.
 
The GB reps are some of the nicest to deal with I have ever seen. Shipping is fast and you don't get loaded with surcharges.

-Cliff
 
A good outfit apparantly. BTW, I will be following your sharpening method Cliff... 2 wet stones, CrO + strop. I have a Spiderco and kitchen knives that need work. I may as well make the investment now.
 
You can get a really nice combination waterstones from Lee Valley. I bought the big green block (~3 lbs) and cut it up into pieces as I like to hand hone axes with small stones with the axe fixed in place. I then finish with the small 1000 and 4000 stones they sell and a final few passes on CrO loaded leather. GB uses really nice steel, the hair should just fly off your arm, and the axe should easily take down a swath of grass on a swing.

-Cliff
 
They have the Norton and the other (cheaper) one.

Also, the Gransfors Axe Stone... is that different grits than 1000/4000?
 
I have the cheaper one brand, they work well. I have not used the GB one, but you get a lot more abrasive for less with the cheaper waterstones.

-Cliff
 
The GB seems to come in a rubber holder which I find appealing. It would stay put on the countertop while doing the passes. I'll ask GB about the specific grits in their stone.
 
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