Any issues I need to know about the XM-18 ?

B

Belstaff1464

Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Messages
14
Hi All !!

Newbie to this forum and high-end knives in general. This is my first thread, not counting my intro and listing on WTB, so please be kind ;) .

I've never really been into knives apart from playing around with Balisongs in my early teens, and as such I don't really have any experience with high-end knives. The only blade that I carry is the one in my Leatherman Charge TTi. The laws in Oz are very prohibitive in this regard. I've also recently gotten into high-end flashlights as well, and whilst browsing through the subforums on CPF, I came across threads and pics of members' lights and knives. Who would have thunk that knives and lights went hand in hand ? To cut a long story short, I came across a couple of pics of the Hinderer XM-18 with orange scales...............and I was instantly smitten :o . The orange XM would go really well with my orange Cerakoted HDS Clicky, and I knew that I had to have one :D . Trust me to fall in love with an expensive and sold-out knife !!!

Normally, I would take my time and do a lot of research and weigh up the pros and cons before making a decision based on logic. I'm afraid that logic doesn't really factor too much in this decision. Does it ever when love/lust is involved ? I have done a bit of research but time is against me. My WTB thread has yielded a couple of nibbles and I need to make a decision and act soon or forever risk missing out on my grail knife. This is going to be a b-day (mid-Nov) present to myself so I need to act fast if I want to ensure it gets here before then. This is where you lot come in. From my meagre research, I have gathered that the XM-18 is a well-designed, well-built, and extremely tough knife, which is one of the reasons I was attracted to it in the first place. I appreciate well-engineered tools. It's durability will exceed my intended use. Yes, I do plan to EDC and use the knife. It's primary use will be to strip cable sheath, cut cardboard, cut rope, peel an apple, etc. That is, nothing too strenuous. Nevertheless, I know that nothing is perfect, yet a cursory search on these forums comes up with very little. The closest thing that I found was a couple of members had a couple of handle screws break. Is this a common occurrence ? I need to know what other possible faults/flaws owners have experienced with this knife no matter how improbable. All my research so far have yielded all the "pros" and very little of the "cons" (apart from the price tag and handle screws). I would very much like to be able to make an informed decision so any feedback will be greatly appreciated.

Also, can someone tell me a bit more about the steel used. Is Duratech 20CV the standard steel used in the gen 3 version ? I'm assuming that CTS-XHP is better. In what way ? Edge retention ? Strength ? What would be the price difference between comparable XM knives with the different steel ? Are these the only 2 blade materials used ? With most manufactured products, the latter versions are generally better as they address any issues from the previous model. With that in mind, how is the gen 3 better than the gen 2 ? I know that gen 1 and 2 are custom and gen 3 is the production/semi-custom model, but I'm guessing there were some improvements made to the gen 3. I'm not talking about cosmetic changes here. Lastly, is $580 a reasonable asking price for a pre-owned gen 3 ? Any info will help.


Thanks in advance,
Mike.

p.s. I'm not sure if this is the right sub-forum for this thread. Mods, if it isn't, please feel free to move this thread or direct me to the more appropriate section. Thanks.

p.p.s. Why is my thread the only one that I can see on WTB ? I thought there would have been others. Is it 'coz I'm a Newbie and not permitted to see other WTB threads ?
 
I'll second that.

Blade steel is not that important.Either is excellent.

The gen 2 is always a full custom. (with a higer price)The gen 3 is in full custom and production.According to it's price (which is fair) it will be a production.

Only difference is the blade.On a custom it's hand ground and on a production it is CNC'ed.All the other hardware is the same.I have both and like them both a lot.As my main EDC's I have an XM-18 and an XM-24 production.Ti and blade is tumbled (doesn't show use marks)

Issues?None that I know of.Maybe some grip screws as you say (first production run new flat screws)
But they take care of it if it should happen.Warranty and service is first class
 
To answer your question,
No.. there is no issue, not from the past that i have seen or personal experience.
and yes, it will handle all the task that you throw at it.
Mind that many people claim that the custom model is a better slicer, i think so too.

as for the price, people sell them around 400 up to 700 plus. My advice is just check regularly on some dealers. Normally, you will be pay for an almost new knife if they call it mint. If a user, you still be getting a good knife because i dont see a XM worn or broken in the next decade.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for the feedback so far. Is there a way of telling the models with the suspect screws ? Are the heads different ?
 
Gen3 wil have Hinderer stamped onthe back just above the Pivot, Gen 1&2's will have Hinderer on the blade. Happy hunting.

If you get a 3'' the same rules apply except there are no Gen1's.
 
Belstaff1464 said:
Thanks for the feedback so far. Is there a way of telling the models with the suspect screws ? Are the heads different ?
Click to expand...

There were only a few screws that had the issue and the problem was resolved before RHK sent very many sets of screws out. I doubt there are ANY more out there now with the machining problem.

You will find that the XM was designed to be used hard. I have read of very few problems over the years. The worst I remember reading about was a blade stop pin (closed position) that was not tight and had come loose which caused the blade to make contact with the standoffs.

I love the pivot design, stand offs, LBS, 20CV, spanto grind, the option to change scale color, and solid lock up the XMs all have. Plus Rick H. and crew are great people.

Picking an XM up in the after market brings a hefty price, but even for a semi-custom (CNC'd blade) it is well worth it. I really doubt you will be disappointed. :D
 
Rico801 said:
I really doubt you will be disappointed. :D
Click to expand...



The only way I can see myself being disappointed is if it is seized by Customs !! :(

On another note, this is probably a really stupid noob question, but what purpose does the square cut out on the framelock side serve ? I know that it must have some functional reason as I've seen it on other similarly designed knives ? It just strikes me that that part would be a bit weaker because of the cutout.
 
If you are referring to the part that is milled out on the lock that allows it to bend easier. You'll see them milled on either side. Sebenza milled on the inside, XM on the outer.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums...........From reading your post, you have pretty much all your bases covered and are very well informed on the xm's. I am a CRK fan, but after awhile, I wanted to see how the XM's compared to other knives I had. The hype is real as the XM's in all 3 sizes are just as good as everyone says. So YES, the hype is real. The only issue is that they are not readily available and the price is high. I did have a handle screw break and it was of the new flat head design. It was when they first made them and the problem has been fixed. An email to Rob and in about a week, he had me a new set of screws at my door. First class customer service. The different in screws is that the first ones were kinda thin right under the screw head, while the new ones have much more metal under the screw head. So, I would not consider that a real issue as Rob will take care of you quickly and only a few got ot that way. Mine was a 3.5". They are tough knives and I have been edcing a 3" flipper lately. The 3.5" is my favorite size with the XM-24 being just a monster. I havent used the 24 yet, but have fondled it a bit and its a folding tank of a knife. The best all around size is the 3.5" with the 3" being an excellent edc when your just cuttin cardboard, paper, and just normal edc stuff where a larger knife is not needed. I would suggest a flipper as it gives you 2 ways to open the knife and the flipper also serves as a guard which I can not say enough about. The non flippers are nice, but after trying both, its fliper all the way for me. The only other flaw I can think of is they kinda have a weak detent. Not sure why, but it does. Sebenzas and striders have better detents I think. And out of all the xm's I have had, every detent feels a little different. I have 4 of them now that feel great. If your able, get one and try it, if its not for you, you can easily sell it for what you paid for it. $650 and under on the forums is a good price. Over that is getting too high I think unless its a 24 which go for about 1K
 
Rico801 said:
If you are referring to the part that is milled out on the lock that allows it to bend easier. You'll see them milled on either side. Sebenza milled on the inside, XM on the outer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. It so obvious now !!!


nyefmaker said:
Welcome to Bladeforums...........From reading your post, you have pretty much all your bases covered and are very well informed on the xm's. I am a CRK fan, but after awhile, I wanted to see how the XM's compared to other knives I had. The hype is real as the XM's in all 3 sizes are just as good as everyone says. So YES, the hype is real. The only issue is that they are not readily available and the price is high. I did have a handle screw break and it was of the new flat head design. It was when they first made them and the problem has been fixed. An email to Rob and in about a week, he had me a new set of screws at my door. First class customer service. The different in screws is that the first ones were kinda thin right under the screw head, while the new ones have much more metal under the screw head. So, I would not consider that a real issue as Rob will take care of you quickly and only a few got ot that way. Mine was a 3.5". They are tough knives and I have been edcing a 3" flipper lately. The 3.5" is my favorite size with the XM-24 being just a monster. I havent used the 24 yet, but have fondled it a bit and its a folding tank of a knife. The best all around size is the 3.5" with the 3" being an excellent edc when your just cuttin cardboard, paper, and just normal edc stuff where a larger knife is not needed. I would suggest a flipper as it gives you 2 ways to open the knife and the flipper also serves as a guard which I can not say enough about. The non flippers are nice, but after trying both, its fliper all the way for me. The only other flaw I can think of is they kinda have a weak detent. Not sure why, but it does. Sebenzas and striders have better detents I think. And out of all the xm's I have had, every detent feels a little different. I have 4 of them now that feel great. If your able, get one and try it, if its not for you, you can easily sell it for what you paid for it. $650 and under on the forums is a good price. Over that is getting too high I think unless its a 24 which go for about 1K
Click to expand...

I'd like to get the flipperer version, but that has even less chance making it through Customs :(. I believe the screws on the one I'm looking at isn't the flat variety so I should be OK.


On a more positive note; Great news !!! I have acquired my Grail knife (and Grail light). Thank you all for your help and guidance. And for answering my stooopid Noobie questions :o Now I have a long and nervous wait to see if it gets through Customs.....:eek:
 
Congrats! If it's not too late having the seller tighten the pivot down so that you cant flip the blade open with your wrist or the flipper has been known to help knives get to where they're going.
 
upsidedownviking said:
Congrats! If it's not too late having the seller tighten the pivot down so that you cant flip the blade open with your wrist or the flipper has been known to help knives get to where they're going.
Click to expand...

I sold an XM to a guy in Australia and this is what I did to get it through customs. This is what Rick advises as well. It makes it un-flippable. Hope it makes it through with no problems and make sure you post pics of your two grail items, we all wanna see !!! Welcome to the XM family.
 
I think you are overthinking this. Its not a life changing decision. Buy the knife, if you dont like it, sell it.
 
upsidedownviking said:
Congrats! If it's not too late having the seller tighten the pivot down so that you cant flip the blade open with your wrist or the flipper has been known to help knives get to where they're going.
Click to expand...

nyefmaker said:
I sold an XM to a guy in Australia and this is what I did to get it through customs. This is what Rick advises as well. It makes it un-flippable. Hope it makes it through with no problems and make sure you post pics of your two grail items, we all wanna see !!! Welcome to the XM family.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I've instructed the seller to tighten it as much as he can so that it takes two hands to open it. It's also being shipped along with my Grail light (Ti HDS Clicky) so hopefully will help it go through Customs.

Will I need the special tool to loosen the pivot ?
 
TerryL said:
I think you are overthinking this. Its not a life changing decision. Buy the knife, if you dont like it, sell it.
Click to expand...

Normally I would agree with you........but when there is a real possibility that the knife will not even make it to me (i.e. seized by Customs), then I have to make sure that it will be worth my gamble. It would be very difficult for me to sell it once Customs has destroyed the knife. If the knife was around the $100-$200 price range, then i wouldn't even hesitate. At the very least, my thread has garnered some very useful info and has reinforced my decision to roll the dice on this knife. Advice such as tightening the pivot has increased the chances of this knife making it through. :D
 
If customs is that much of a threat, would disassembling the knife and mailing the blade in a separate package help?
 
Vege-Taco said:
If customs is that much of a threat, would disassembling the knife and mailing the blade in a separate package help?
Click to expand...

I considered that but in the end I decided that it would make it more suspicious and may attract extra attention. I've been told that even Bali trainers have been seized because someone can modify it and turn it into a proper Bali. The stupid thing is the worst reported knife attacks are commited with kitchen or chef knives, yet as far as I know there's no restriction on their importation. :confused:
 
Belstaff1464 said:
Thanks for the advice. I've instructed the seller to tighten it as much as he can so that it takes two hands to open it. It's also being shipped along with my Grail light (Ti HDS Clicky) so hopefully will help it go through Customs.

Will I need the special tool to loosen the pivot ?
Click to expand...

No you dont need the special Hinderer tool. Before I got the Hinderer Tool, I just used the largest gunsmith style sloted screwdriver tip and it worked great. Just take care so it does nto slip nd scratch the knife. I had a spanner tool I made out of Craftsmans largest screwdriver ( ground the middle out with a dremel cut off wheel ) that I used to use at work. The spanner fits the Hinderer like it was made for it. So for a couple of bucks, just buy a screwdriver set with some bits. Many of them have the hex heads that will work for the scale removal. The Hinderer tool is great and it as well made as his knives are, but you can definately go the cheaper route. Sometimes I adjust mine with a dime also...lol, so you have options !!!
 
nyefmaker said:
No you dont need the special Hinderer tool. Before I got the Hinderer Tool, I just used the largest gunsmith style sloted screwdriver tip and it worked great. Just take care so it does nto slip nd scratch the knife. I had a spanner tool I made out of Craftsmans largest screwdriver ( ground the middle out with a dremel cut off wheel ) that I used to use at work. The spanner fits the Hinderer like it was made for it. So for a couple of bucks, just buy a screwdriver set with some bits. Many of them have the hex heads that will work for the scale removal. The Hinderer tool is great and it as well made as his knives are, but you can definately go the cheaper route. Sometimes I adjust mine with a dime also...lol, so you have options !!!
Click to expand...

That's good to hear. I'll definitely be choosing the cheap option. :D
 
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