Any opinions on Strider CTS-40CP?

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May 13, 2016
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I just saw that Strider has some SnGs out in CTS-40CP. I have been considering one in S30v for quite some time. I was wondering if anyone has experience with CTS-40CP or any opinions on it vs S30? Thanks, Corndog
 
Its just another company's 440c. Not a bad steel. Actually, done correctly, it's a good steel. It has lost some of it's shine in the last several years because of the rise of the PM "Super Steels". I wouldn't choose it over S30V at all. Many folks forget that S30V was and is a darn good steel. I prefer it to S35VN, but that's just me, in my uses. My experience with Strider's S30V has been very positive. I think they do it as good or better than anyone.
 
If you want one for the collectable aspect then get it, otherwise s30v IMO is a better option...

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Its just another company's 440c. Not a bad steel. Actually, done correctly, it's a good steel. It has lost some of it's shine in the last several years because of the rise of the PM "Super Steels". I wouldn't choose it over S30V at all. Many folks forget that S30V was and is a darn good steel. I prefer it to S35VN, but that's just me, in my uses. My experience with Strider's S30V has been very positive. I think they do it as good or better than anyone.

Correct...

It's a reworked 440C, and there's nothing bad about that.
I love how Strider is constantly putting out different options on the SMF/SnG

Try to find a 3V version or even PD1, those would be the two I would recommend the most.
 
What about its corrosion resistance comparatively speaking? Money Edge is selling theirs suggesting its better than other steels (presumably S30) in this regard.
 
It's in the 16-18% chromium range. That would rate it as very stain resistant. I'm not 100% sure how much of the chromium is used up in carbides vs. being free to act stainless if you will. I seem to remember 440C as being pretty good in that respect. I would say you likely wouldn't be disappointed if you were looking for a stain resistant knife steel.
 
Every website I look at, all the new stock Strider's feature this steel. I'm guessing it's more of a cost reduction strategy than wanting to try something new. I'm sure it's also easier to work with and maybe less prone to chipping than S30V.

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It is a PM 440C. And 440C is great stuff. I 2nd the 3V or PD1. Those steels are amazing!
 
Saw one up for sale and was tempted but it had some use and I couldn't determine if it had the flat tang or not.


Might have been this exact one. I picked it up second hand here. Was filthy and used. But broken in, very solid and smooth.

If you can find one in CPM154, grab it fast. It's the next best thing. I prefer it over their s30v. Holds a great edge fora very long time.

The Pd1, 3v, and Zwear are getting harder to find everyday. And when they do go for sale, they claim big $$
 
I just got this today, great deal new. I know nothing about cts40cp but this came right from strider and I have yet to see one like this. Anybody have any thoughts on rusting with cts40cp? That's the main concern I have with Striders bead blasted blades..since mines ghost striped the area that's blasted has a better chance of rusting. Usually around the blade stop stud is where it happens from what I have experienced. I just don't know how well 40cp will hold up in humidity with me working outside in TX.
 

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I just got this today, great deal new. I know nothing about cts40cp but this came right from strider and I have yet to see one like this. Anybody have any thoughts on rusting with cts40cp? That's the main concern I have with Striders bead blasted blades..since mines ghost striped the area that's blasted has a better chance of rusting. Usually around the blade stop stud is where it happens from what I have experienced. I just don't know how well 40cp will hold up in humidity with me working outside in TX.

Since it's basically 440C it should be quite rust resistant. Probably as much or more than any blade material strider has used. If you have an issue I found baking soda and a toothbrush works real well at removing rust from blasted blades.
 
Since it's basically 440C it should be quite rust resistant. Probably as much or more than any blade material strider has used. If you have an issue I found baking soda and a toothbrush works real well at removing rust from blasted blades.

I had a feeling, good to hear..I'll make sure to keep it clean and oiled just to be safe. Thanks for the tip I'll definitely keep that in mind!
 
I can't speak for the CTS-40CP but I will throw in my opinion of Strider and their knives.

I've owned a few more than a few and I've been overall pretty happy. They heat treat their steel right and you won't find anything to complain about in that department. I don't think a standard S30V Strider would dissapoint you in the slightest. One of my most used and even abused knives is a Strider SMF in 154CM. It's a tank and it will not die. It's at the point where the lock travels all the way over to the other scale (I've done deplorable things to this knife) and it keeps on trucking. Plus, Strider's warranty is legit. Their customer service stinks (only because they have no phone number that's in service and they take weeks to respond to emails) but you really don't need to contact them in terms of sending your knife in. Just send the knife in with instructions of what you want done, they do it, you get your knife back roughly a month or so later. They've removed finishes for me for free as well.

That being said, I really wish they'd just add a freaking lock bar insert. It's the one reason I have sold the majority of my Striders.

Happy trails.
 
I can't speak for the CTS-40CP but I will throw in my opinion of Strider and their knives.

I've owned a few more than a few and I've been overall pretty happy. They heat treat their steel right and you won't find anything to complain about in that department. I don't think a standard S30V Strider would dissapoint you in the slightest. One of my most used and even abused knives is a Strider SMF in 154CM. It's a tank and it will not die. It's at the point where the lock travels all the way over to the other scale (I've done deplorable things to this knife) and it keeps on trucking. Plus, Strider's warranty is legit. Their customer service stinks (only because they have no phone number that's in service and they take weeks to respond to emails) but you really don't need to contact them in terms of sending your knife in. Just send the knife in with instructions of what you want done, they do it, you get your knife back roughly a month or so later. They've removed finishes for me for free as well.

That being said, I really wish they'd just add a freaking lock bar insert. It's the one reason I have sold the majority of my Striders.

Happy trails.

Thanks for the info, I have only had half a dozen Striders both smf and sng, but have not had the time to really use em..this one I plan on keeping for a very long time as it is the best I have ever felt, smooth as my sebenzas, has ridiculous early lockup like 10% so it'll have a very long life, perfectly centered which is a bonus.
 
I have my issues with Strider's knives (LOCK BAR INSERT. I WANT ONE.) but I can tell you without a doubt they will stand the test of time. I have stabbed countless paint cans, opened countless boxes, stabbed sheets of metal, particle board, and have dug holes in 2x4s simply to say that I have and the knife is still functioning. Plus, IF you ever manage to kill one, they will stand behind their product and replace it.

Not sure what more you could ask for.

With yours being perfectly centered/early lock up you'll probably have an even better experience than me. The SMF I'm referring to is one of the oldies with the old lock face and larger thumb studs (the old lock face SUCKED). I'm sure had it been one of the newer models I wouldn't be so hell bent on having a lock insert. I've owned a few of the newer ones but have never seriously used any of them.
 
I have my issues with Strider's knives (LOCK BAR INSERT. I WANT ONE.) but I can tell you without a doubt they will stand the test of time. I have stabbed countless paint cans, opened countless boxes, stabbed sheets of metal, particle board, and have dug holes in 2x4s simply to say that I have and the knife is still functioning. Plus, IF you ever manage to kill one, they will stand behind their product and replace it.

Not sure what more you could ask for.

With yours being perfectly centered/early lock up you'll probably have an even better experience than me. The SMF I'm referring to is one of the oldies with the old lock face and larger thumb studs (the old lock face SUCKED). I'm sure had it been one of the newer models I wouldn't be so hell bent on having a lock insert. I've owned a few of the newer ones but have never seriously used any of them.

I mean I'm not joking when I say it's REALLY early lockup...this picture I just took is even with me flicking it out pretty hard. Definitely the earliest I have seen, even on any other knife I have owned, my xms are later. Can't really get much earlier, almost too little.
 

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I had a tanto SMF in S30V and loved it. Sold my PD-1 SNG because it would get deep red, pitted rust just carrying it in my back pocket.
 
I just got this today, great deal new. I know nothing about cts40cp but this came right from strider and I have yet to see one like this. Anybody have any thoughts on rusting with cts40cp? That's the main concern I have with Striders bead blasted blades..since mines ghost striped the area that's blasted has a better chance of rusting. Usually around the blade stop stud is where it happens from what I have experienced. I just don't know how well 40cp will hold up in humidity with me working outside in TX.

I don't think you'll have any worries.
I walk 5-6 miles every morning and my SnG with this steel rides in my soaking wet sweaty shorts on a daily basis.
No problems yet!
 
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