Any particular concerns about mahogany sawdust?

K

Kevin the grey

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Aug 26, 2005
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I am filing and sanding square lengths into arrow shafts. All the filings fall to the ground as they are coarse and heavy. When I hand sand the file marks out the finer dust swirls about a fair amount.

I don't think this is a signifigant amount unless there is something of particular concern about this wood.

I am fairly certain this is louan (sp). The same wood commonly used as inexpensive door panels.

Also is this a strong wood? As it will be used for arrows there will be a lot of flexing and front end impacts. When it is sanded smooth it looks very nice. It kind of reminds me of cedar. When I put the file to it there is a definite suggestion this could be a splintery wood.
 
i built cabinets during the summer in college. we used a fair amount of mahogany. any dust is harmful. mahogany dusts up more than a lot of woods. err on the side of caution, and wear a mask. as to its strength, if you look at it wrong, mahogany dents. i can't attest to frontal impacts as you'd experience with an arrow, but i wouldn't be surprised if you experienced broken shafts. i'd suggest cherry or maple. they're stronger woods, with a close grain. if you can find viburnum, it was called "arrowwood" for a reason. just my $.02
 
Yeah good advice. I think I will pick up a simple mask .

As for the wood? I can only use what I have. I have enough of this to make 500 arrows. It did not cost me anything. If I don't use this I will be running awful short of arrows very soon.
 
mahogany should be fine with 500. you use what you have on hand. def get a mask, the cheap paper and elastic ones work fine
 
dusk mask is a must.

Plain red mahogany?


Honduran Mahogany has oils in it that you probably don't want to inhale. Some dust is ok...the body is built to handle it. Constant inhalation can be a problem. And we haven't even talked about allergies yet...:(
 
Those simple paper w/ string varieties don't really protect you all that much. Invest in a good quality mask with removable filters.
I worked Mahogany in woodshop in high school and didn't think it should qualify as hardwood.
Good luck
 
Its a nice wood to work. It is fairly soft. I akin it to cedar. The surface seems a bit more open than cedar.

This wood is from packing crates which originated in Maylasia. Beautiful straight grained wood. One of my buddys thinks it is Luan. I showed it to a woodyard owner. All he could say is that he thought it was mahogany. He could not say what type. Cedar red streaks with tan streaks. Think of Louan door panel with light tan streaks.

http://www.harpsichord.com/All Instrument Images/2457fp.jpg The flat side panel on the piano seems very similar. I have seen other pictures of luan that are much redder. Mine is very light in color similar to the piano. It is hard to say as there is a finish on the wood.

I am anxious to see how it will take an oil finish.

If this wood turns out to be too soft on its own I will foot it. That is the process where a harder more durable resilient wood is spliced into the wood to become the front of the arrow. When it is done it can be spectacular. There are purple heart footed Ash arrows which have to be seen to be believed.

http://www.ancientarchery.com/Arrows.htm scroll down to see the purpleheart arrows.

I am afraid Mine would be much simpler affairs. If I can get a green tinted wood that would make a nice compliment to the red of the mahogany.
I am kinda getting ahead of myself. Its fun to do. I still have a lot to learn.
 
jude_061 said:
oil on mahogany looks awesome, IMO. i like it better than varnish.
Click to expand...

Which would you say makes a nicer finish ? Boiled linseed or tung oil.

That having been asked would a laquer or varnish help in keeping it less prone to splinters?

One trick arrowmakers do is to use very fine steelwool on a shiny finish. This gives a satin finish which is a little easier on the eyes.
 
All sawdust is harmful to your lungs. It is a carcinogen. It is also extremely flamable. Woodworking shops have been known to explode when a spark gets let out into a shop with the air filled with sawdust.
 
A great combination finish is to mix some linseed oil, varnish and turps - 1/3 each. You get the increased wear and durability of the varnish but with easy application. I recommend using a good oil based spar varnish for this.
The oil will be good for appearance. Wait until dry before applications - at least 1 day.
 
arty said:
A great combination finish is to mix some linseed oil, varnish and turps - 1/3 each. You get the increased wear and durability of the varnish but with easy application. I recommend using a good oil based spar varnish for this.
The oil will be good for appearance. Wait until dry before applications - at least 1 day.
Click to expand...

This sounds very nice. It sounds like it would affect the strength of the varnish by diluting it. Would it still keep the wood from getting splinters?
 
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