Any reason to NOT use Worksharp MK2 (any cons)

Joined
Dec 7, 2009
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I am a sharpening novice and looking for a good system to maintain a sharp edge. I borrowed a older Worksharp MK2 from a friend. I had never used one and simply read the instructions. I had a assortment of knives to practice on. I had a 10" chiefs knife that i literally found in the woods, almost butter knife dull. My well used Falkniven F1 which i broke the tip off of and had a few snags, chips or roles in the blade. it was sharp but would snag paper when cutting it. A old RH Russel survival knife that had been sharpened in the past. I felt like it had too steep of an angle on it. I could get it sharp but not super sharp. Also had my Bugout in M4, it was sharp but as an EDC it wasn't shaving sharp. That was the only one I didn't want to mess up.

My friend that lent me the sharpener said he only used the medium grit. On the Falkniven and the old chief knife I started with course just a little bit. They all got about 10 passes per side with the medium. Then they all got a few passes with the fine grit on each side. Then a few alternating passes with the fine. Then i stropped then a little on my cheap leather strop.

They all literally turned out shaving sharp. The RH Russel survival knife was the surprise. That thing slices paper insane and pops hairs all day. The Falkniven was supper easy because of the convex grind. The Bugout was the hardest to match the angle and because I didnt want to mess it up. I am sure the convexed the edge. But it is still supper sharp. Sliced my thumb playing with it and pulls hairs off my arm like a razor.

The only downside I can see is that it convexes the edge rather than a true angle. Is there really any disadvantage to this? I have a few higher end knives like Randalls that I would be hesitant to sharpen with it. But for other knives is there ANYTHING wrong with using it? Anything wrong with the slight convex edge it puts on the blade?

I dont really want to end up with multiple systems. But I kind of think a fixed angle system would be the best for the Randalls and things I want to use but preserve. Or maybe using the MK2. But mostly using something like a Sharpmaker and the strop to maintain the edge? But then I still end up with the MK2 and the Sharpmaker.
 
Work Sharps are capable little machines. Be very careful pulling the blade across the belt. Too slow and you can screw up a temper. I have read that 10 cm a second is safe.
If you are going to use a powered machine though, a 1x30 variable speed bench sander is much more versatile IMHO. I have 2 setting on my bench. Even better a 1x42 or longer. The longer the belt, the less heat they generate… so I’ve read.
 
Hi RC! I'm still new to this, but have jumped into the deep end over the past several months.

My $0.02.

My experience is similar to yours using the Mk2. It works. It makes the process of sharpening fairly straightforward. Yes, as a powered machine, there are risks in screwing up the temper. As long as users are aware of the potential, it's an easy thing to avoid happening. That's why there are a number of smaller knife sharpening shops who use the Mk2 as their main tool for their sharpening business. It works and gets the job done quickly.

The convex edge is something that can help strengthen the edge by providing slightly more metal mass around the edge. No idea if this is necessary. What I've discovered along this journey is that there are a LARGE number of professional sharpeners that use belt grinders for their businesses. If it was an obvious flaw to create a convex edge, they likely wouldn't be able to stay in business.

Ultimately, the answer of whether to get one or not depends on you. What do you want?

Some folks really enjoy using a set of stones manually to get their knives in shape. There IS something sort of meditative about the process...being focused on the task, doing what you can to maintain the proper angle, testing, adjusting, repetitive motions...

Other folks just want to get on with their day and don't want to spend the time using a manual, unguided process with stones.

BTW: The instructions that come with the Mk2 are...not all that there is. The instructions suggest starting off with a course belt, doing several passes per side, then moving to a less course belt and doing alternating passes, then moving to an even less course belt and doing alternating passes.

What I've learned in this process is that for the usual task of just taking a basic dull knife and getting into great working shape with a toothy edge requires only two belts (~ 120 grit and a 600 grit) and a strop with a good polishing compound (I've had terrific results using a diamond 1 micron compound on either a leather strop or a felt strop on the Mk2). That process won't create a mirror edge. It creates an edge that will do great work and last a reasonable amount of time. This was my experience after watching Cliff Curry videos on how he approaches the typical kitchen knife, then applying it. It's faster than the instructions that come with the Mk2 and likely removes less metal. As always, YMMV.

Good luck!
Bruce
 
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