Any sheathmaker recommendations?

[Garrett Lucas]

I was just getting geared up for an outing tomorrow, and I noticed that the cordura sheath that came with my BM is falling apart. The stitching has broken or something and the seams are coming apart. God knows I've beat it to death the past few months. I have been considering going ahead and getting a Kydex sheath for the BM anyway.

I was going to send a note out to Normark since I've heard great stuff about his work, and he seems like a genuinely nice guy. However, I noticed on his page that he doesn't make Kydex sheaths that drop low and hang at the thigh level. I am looking for a quality sheathmaker that can make a drop sheath for my BM in much the same style as a Tactical drop holster. It would need to have two slots on each side of the sheath for webbing to secure it to my leg. Simple holes for paracord won't do. I also want a good snug hold on the knife. I would like for the sheathmaker to be versatile enough to add a couple of other little extras like a holder for a firestarter, and so on.

Any ideas who can do this kind of work? I'd appreciate any help anyone could give.

 

[Normark]

Hey Garrett...

Thanks..

As you have mentioned I don't do dropper sheaths...

I don't do them for a particular reason....

If they aren't done properly, using the right materials the blade hangs sloppy and flops against the body...With a sheath like this a leg strap must Always be worn.. The knife bounces around and the handles always seem to stick out and catch on everything you walk by...

Another reason I don't do them is because All of my sheaths are of a pouch or fold over design, and there is No good way to marry webbing to a sheath of this style...This method however does work well on two piece sheaths...

I've worn many large blades with sheaths like this over the years..I've Never found them comfortable...Drawing the knife is nice because it put the blade in a good position,,but the bouncing and flopping side to side,,drives me Mad...

The reason I build my sheaths the way I do is so they lay flat against the body, no bounce no flop what so ever... The handle is also tight against the body with just enough room to grab the handle properly. No straps,snaps or and funky stuff needed...

I understand that some people like a really Low Hung rig,,I just don't do them..Too many parts and things to go wrong....Something I'm just not comfortable doing...

If you have any questions, Please feel free to drop me a note anytime..


ttyle

Eric...

 

[HJK]

If you are looking for leather,Kenny Rowe has a sheath that might fit the bill, and of course, he does custom work. He has a low=ride and one that extends lower and swivels too. I use that as my main sheath for my SH II. You really should tie it down if you wear it low. With the bigger knives like the BM you should tie it down anyways.

I Love the Busse knives, but I can't say I like the cordura/kydex sheaths much.

If you are looking for kydex or concealex, Normark/Eric is the Man. Great work, Great guy. I'm more than happy with his sheaths. In fact, I've ordered another one gor one of my Busses. He raises some very good points.

I have always been partial to leather, but for convenience and practicality [except maybe in very extreme heat and cold, for example- I don't want to start that old debate again, however] I don't think leather is the best choice.

But in the end it's mostly personal.

 

[Dark Nemesis]

Just got to see my first Kenny Rowe sheath today, its awesome to say the least.

 

[SALTY]

Garrett, I have used and like very much Normark's products.

I have recently gotten hooked up with Chad Pirtle who makes what appear to be tough functional sheaths. His prices are very fair and he provides good C.S.

I am awaiting receipt of two sheaths from him now. The Busse Natural Outlaw and Buck-Strider at the below site are mine - can't wait to get them back.


http://home.neo.rr.com/thepirtles/

 

[RokJok]

I'll concur on the recommends for Normark's fine work. But, as he himself says, he doesn't do Lo-Ride on the thigh drop sheaths. Too bad, given the consistent high quality of his workmanship in both his standard models and his custom work.

As alternatives, you might consider contacting Dave Brown of BuyBrown or Mike Sastre of River City Sheaths.
http://www.buybrownholsters.com/
http://www.rivercitysheaths.com/

 

[Normark]

Hey Rok....

Thanks Bud..

As far as doing dropper rigs goes,, the problem stems from trying to properly marry webbing to a fold over sheath of my type...

A webbing attachment works best with a two sided sheath,rather than a fold over design like mine is...You need the webbing attached to the top part of the sheath so it hangs properly..

There is a way of doing it however and I'm working on it right now...It will be a little different,,but I should be able to do it so that it can be converted utilizing my regular sheaths....

As you know,, if I don't feel comfortable doing it,, I won't do it..It has to be done right....

Stay tuned,, I'm working on the problem now...

Again Thanks for your interest..

ttyle

Eric..

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Garrett :

I was just getting geared up for an outing tomorrow, and I noticed that the cordura sheath that came with my BM is falling apart. The stitching has broken or something and the seams are coming apart.

This is one of the weak points of cordura sheaths when the stiching wears it will unravel and thus a small break can fault the whole join. There are a few ways around this problem. The first is to just use multiple rows of stiching. SOE does at least three on most of their joins and more on some. As well you can use a very wear resistant thread, personally I would experiment with something like a braided fishing line if I was making sheaths as they are very cut resistant. Also you can underlay the stiching with an adhesive so that even if the stiching gives way it will not ravel because the adhesive will hold it in place. Finally you can cross stitch. Every inch or so you run a line of stiching perpendicular to the main lines and thus make a series of independent attachments.

I am looking for a quality sheathmaker that can make a drop sheath for my BM

The kydex sheaths that Busse used to offer a few years ago were exactly of this configuration. The only problems they had were the webbing attachment is relatively weak (I can pull mine right off the Kydex without much effort), and the extra low ride clip is some kind of plastic which does not appear to be that impact resistant. If you are attaching webbing to kydex via a bolt, you have to use very wide heads and/or washers because you can pull webbing around them otherwise. As well the webbing should be an inner/outer attachment not all on one side as that is too much of a force focus. You could probably just glue the webbing on, if you are doing this though be sure to run it through a slit in the sheath body so that any force exerted on it will not cause a perpendicular pull at the adhesive join but rather a shear across it. In fact if the webbing was ran through a slit in the sheath there would be no need to attach it to the sheath body but its shape would hold it in place and it could just wrap around the front of the sheath.

-Cliff

 

[Blues]

The Fallkniven kydex sheathes are of a "fold over" variety and feature the nylon drop loop. I find them to be great in the use I've given them so far.

Granted, the S1 and A1 are smaller than the BM and some of the larger Busse's.

So, it appears it can be done. However, I agree with Eric that if it isn't done well, or if retention isn't optimal (with or without a keeper), the knife may flop around or the handle protrude away from the body making it a pain in the butt.