Any sword makers out there, want to commission a Claymore

silenthunterstudios

silenthunterstudios

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Feb 2, 2005
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I am interested in commissioning a Scottish Claymore sword, and I would like to get some price quotes, and better yet, opinions on what to use for a good steel. I am looking to purchase this in the next five years, but will definitely not be purchasing it in the next few years. I am interested in getting the old V shaped hilt style, a link is below

http://www.knifecenter.com/knifecenter/cas/images/077pp.jpg

I'm not trying to advertise for the above company, nor do I want any makers to violate copyrights etc, but this is the type of sword I am interested in getting. I would really appreciate any makers ideas for price quotes, and any makers opinions on blade steels. I am looking for a functional sword, obviously I am not going to use it for what swords were originally designed for, but I would like a strong blade and a razor sharp edge, this will be a wall hanger, but I would like to have a sword to pass on as an heirloom. Thank you in advance for your comments. My email is silenthunterstudios@hotmail.com.
 
There are sellers, like Del Tin or Cas Iberia
Del Tin
http://www.deltin.net/home.htm
Cas Iberia
http://www.casiberia.com/

I have to warn U. The Cas Iberia swords sells their swords based on their quality (I think this is very honest approach). You have to look to the Functional category.

I would prefer Del Tin, as their swords are high quality pieces. I've read reviews on many sites, the Del Tin is very similarly forged and furbished like old times. You will find the sword at a price of 300 $ from Cas Iberia, I think the sword will be much more highly priced at Del Tin's..
Best Wishes
Emre KIPMEN
 
The 'proper' steel for a 'user' sword is 5160, tempered to about 52 on the Rockwell scale. This enables the sword to be flexible enough to withstand the impact of another weapon, yet hard enough that the blade edge will not deform to any significant degree when struck. As always, there are tradeoffs between hardness and flexibility, but what would you rather have when facing an opponent, a broken sword in your hand or a knick in the blade?

As for cost, it is kind of useless to take bids for a project that is upwards of 5 years away, as things change. Heck, for all you know Armageddon could occur, and we'll all be back to looking like Conan the Barbarian ...with good swords commanding a premium price ...say, your firstborn child :)
 
jiminy said:
As for cost, it is kind of useless to take bids for a project that is upwards of 5 years away, as things change. Heck, for all you know Armageddon could occur, and we'll all be back to looking like Conan the Barbarian ...with good swords commanding a premium price ...say, your firstborn child :)
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I just wanted to preface my question with the fact that I can't afford one right now, I just wanted a broad price quote anyway, one of the replies stated that I might be looking at 100 bucks an inch! Thanks for the opinions, I'm sitting here thinking how cool a damascus claymore would look :D :eek: :D .
 
One idea you may not have considered (since you have five years to kill) is filing your own blade.You could get a six foot bar of 1/4 or 3/8 by 2" wide 5160 steel for not much money.Mark the profile of the blade blank on it with a magic marker (leave a little room for filing).Take it to a metal shop and have them saw it out on their metal saw.Then get yourself two big Nicholson files (about $20 each) and start filing the shape.It will take a lot of time,but time you've got.By the time you have the blade filed and sanded to shape,you will be ready to have someone make the guard.You can do the handle yourself quite easily.If it is to be a wall hanger you would not even need to harden the blade.If you want it hardened,you can send it to a heat treating company.
I would be glad to help you get started on this,and would help with the parts you can't/don't want to do.I'm right down in Virginia.If you are interested let me know and I'll drop you an email.I come up to Fredrick.MD for the Moran Hammer-in in October.We could get things started then (or earlier).I would make the sword for you,but I believe you would treasure it more if you did most of the work.
 
That is a good idea, I'm going to send you an email and think it over, are you going to the Frederick knife show coming up?
 
No,but I will be at the Harrisonsburg,Va. show the 1,2,3 of April. Come down and see me.I,ll be in Fredrick in October.
 
jiminy said:
The 'proper' steel for a 'user' sword is 5160,...
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Or any number of other alloys heat treated correctly for that application.

tempered to about 52 on the Rockwell scale...
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Or slightly harder if the right alloys are used to allow better performance than the ancient steels.

Sorry, I am not dissagreeing at all, but my experience has shown me that the horizons and possibilities in the modern sword business are much broader than traditional wisdom would account for.
 
Kevin R. Cashen said:
Or any number of other alloys heat treated correctly for that application.

Or slightly harder if the right alloys are used to allow better performance than the ancient steels.

Sorry, I am not dissagreeing at all, but my experience has shown me that the horizons and possibilities in the modern sword business are much broader than traditional wisdom would account for.
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Well said, Cashen.


silent, go seek Earl at hellfireforge, he could make it, and with a good price. I love my blades from them.
 
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