Any tips on how to hit this spot on Spyderco blades.

[prime77]

Spyderco has to be my favorite knife company and while I like the leaf shaped blades that they use on their knives I am having trouble hitting the edge near the finger choil. To show this I sharpened my Sage using my DMT stones. I find that if I pay to much attention on the base I mess up the rest of the bevel. So I just give up and do the rest of the edge and leave the base factory. Anyone have any tips that they do with their Spydies.

 

[unit]

Here is what I do. The terminology in the video is probably wrong but essentially I use a diamond file to create a sharpened notch that is very very small (like a line cutter or a sharpening notch but very small).

[youtube]VMvE-b4259A[/youtube]

 

[grizzled gizzard]

I know exactly what you are talking about!

Leave it however it comes out and don't worry about it. It's only the smallest fraction of the blade, and your knife will never know the difference.

 

[Jason B.]

Lower the handle slightly at the start.

Many spydercos have a full curve to the blade, essentially its like a ulu blade in that the whole cutting edge is a belly. Point of contact is very small when sharpening this type of edge and if you sharpen it like a blade that is usually straight through this area you will get the results you are getting.

Lets see if I can explain my bowl trick...... Take a soup bowl and turn it upside down on a flat surface. Place your hands all fingers together on either side of the bowl. Lift the bowl on its rim 45 degrees so that just one point of the rim is contacting the surface. Holding the angle roll the bowl around on it rim holding the X and Y axis the at the same point throughout.

The forward section of the bowl that touching when the raised end is facing you will be exactly like sharpening a knife with lots of belly. If you follow the rim 180 degrees from right too left it would be the exact motion of sharpening a ulu blade. If you started at 75 degrees to the choil side and move to 180 that would be like sharpening your spidie. If you start at 90 and move to 180 that would be like most knives that are straight from choil to belly.

Make an sense????

 

[prime77]

Lower the handle slightly at the start.

Many spydercos have a full curve to the blade, essentially its like a ulu blade in that the whole cutting edge is a belly. Point of contact is very small when sharpening this type of edge and if you sharpen it like a blade that is usually straight through this area you will get the results you are getting.

Lets see if I can explain my bowl trick...... Take a soup bowl and turn it upside down on a flat surface. Place your hands all fingers together on either side of the bowl. Lift the bowl on its rim 45 degrees so that just one point of the rim is contacting the surface. Holding the angle roll the bowl around on it rim holding the X and Y axis the at the same point throughout.

The forward section of the bowl that touching when the raised end is facing you will be exactly like sharpening a knife with lots of belly. If you follow the rim 180 degrees from right too left it would be the exact motion of sharpening a ulu blade. If you started at 75 degrees to the choil side and move to 180 that would be like sharpening your spidie. If you start at 90 and move to 180 that would be like most knives that are straight from choil to belly.

Make an sense????

It took some hand visualizations on my part but I understand what your saying now. Lets see next time is I can maintain a constant angle doing it that way.

 

[pwet]

this is the only gripe i have with spydercos. the lack of sharpening choil is a pain. i never had the balls to create one like on the video but that's a good idea.

notice the belly is under the very start of the edge for a reason, it's to accomodate sharpening, eventually if you use your knife a lot this recurve will disapear as you remove material.