any way to adjust the Strider Military?

hardheart

hardheart

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
Messages
8,968
I just took this knife out of the box, and I need to know if there's anything I can do with the liner lock. It engages at about 3/4+ of the blade width, and I can make the ball detent touch the other liner with mild thumb pressure. The knife is riveted together, so I'm guessing there's not much hope of me altering this in some way, but I thought I'd ask. It really has little room for wear, especially since such little lateral force is needed to move the already engaged lock. There's no blade play, though.
 
You could send it back.
The only way I can see to "adjust" the engagement, is to replace the stop stud with a larger one.??
 
I can't stand the fact they put rivets in the handle... when I get mine one of the first things I'm gonna do is drill em out and replace with screw pins..

I would say send it back with a nasty letter.. that is a pretty good chunk of change to pay for a knife that operates like a Chinese knock off..
Shame on buck.. lol
 
Looks like the thumb stud/stop pin is also riveted, and I don't wanna try to hold the blade and drill the stud out.
 
I have just looked at all three of my Strider Buck military folders and the liner is dead center in the middle of the blade on all three. If you are concerned about the placement of the liner, instead of adjusting it, send it back to Buck they will make it good. I suspect you wanted to tweak the knife to avoid having to be without it for a month. PM Joe Houser and I'm pretty sure he will help you out. There is no need to send them a nasty letter, they will take care of you.

I just looked at the thumb stud/stop pin and right you are, even the screw construction G-10/ ATS 34 Strider/ Buck/ Tarani folder has the thumb stud/stop pin rivited on. So the only thing adjustable is the blade pivot. So if you loosened the pivot and there was a hair of front to rear blade play, would pushing the blade to the rear change the position of the liner lock up? I guess I will have to defer to someone more knowledgable than me.

I don't know about Chinese knock offs, I buy knives made by Americans, at $46.00 shipped to me the Strider Buck military folder is a great buy.
 
OK so maybe I went a bit far.. but I am also wanting to purchase one of these and if I had to turn around and send it right back off and wait around for a month to be replaced or fixed.. I would be pissed.. :)
 
jefff

At any price point you should get the knife you are satisfied with. Placement of the liner on the blade or the thickness of the liner is a personal thing to many people. Unless it is to the point it is a safty issue.

The Strider Buck Military folder is a massed produced item and I'm sure the Buck factory is cranking out 100's per hour, I have three and I am happy with all three. If you had these three knives you might think the liner is too far over for your liking. In that case send it back to Buck and they will do their darndest to make it right. If you get time pull out and read the warranty information from Buck knives. "All Buck knives are warranted for the lifetime of the original purchaser..."

If I buy from a brick and morter store I will look through the stock until I find the knife I am satisfied with. With internet dealers it is a little tricker, if you are a good customer they should bend over backward and send you a knife with the lock up you want.

hardheart
Sorry if I have hijacked your thread.

Brian
163 Buck 110's and counting.
 
BR549 said:
So the only thing adjustable is the blade pivot. So if you loosened the pivot and there was a hair of front to rear blade play, would pushing the blade to the rear change the position of the liner lock up? I guess I will have to defer to someone more knowledgable than me.
Click to expand...

Just tried it, and it does affect liner position. Unfortunately, the liner will of course force the blade forward from lock pressure. I have the pivot tight enough that it takes two hands to open and close the knife slowly, and I'm able to force the blade to move enough on the pivot to significantly change the locking position-from barely enough room for the liner to touch the edge of the lock face all the way to the liner moving across the tang as it originally did. Maybe there is some way Buck could shim up this sloppiness in the pivot, it appears to be the problem.
 
Done some more research:
1. If you don't have the tools, send it in.
2. Two channel locks, 3/32" SS pinstock, 1/4" SS pinstock, drill press.
a. Grasp stop studs with the two plyers, turn and twist them off.
b. With the 1/4" pinstock, cut to proper length and drill a 3/32" hole,
in center, (a doughnut) do this twice.
c. With the 3/32" pinstock, cut to length (add the two studs plus blade
thickness, plus a little for peening).
d. Peen both sides. Grind flush.
e. Check locking lug position. Adjust if stud is too big by fileing metal
liners till locking lug is just right.

The disadvantage is, your stud is not black, and it is a heck of a lot of work.
 
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