Anybody convex their Scrapper 5LE ???

[Marvin8]

Was gonna round the shoulders on the secondary bevel, but am a bit concerned due to the rather steep grind of the blade. Thoughts? Can it be done safely without thinning the blade too much?

Also, anybody know the difference between a Scrapper 5 LE and the SE version? One person listed the SE as a tiny bit thicker than the LE, but I'm not really sure if that was an accurate measurement.

Thanks!

 

[knife hunter]

Marvin, I know that the CG is not INFI and was not near as much as the LE/Se's. As far as thickness variance I cant help.

Will York, has a gorgeous S5 LE I believe that Ban convexed and its incredible!

 

[UDDwaine]

Marvin, I know that the Se is not INFI

Trevor - Are you sure? I believe that the S5 SE was INFI, at least the ones in Easton were.

Edit to add - This pic shows the LE and SE models.

 

[knife hunter]

Trevor - Are you sure? I believe that the S5 SE was INFI, at least the ones in Easton were.

Edit to add - This pic shows the LE and SE models.

I meant the CG wasnt infi:foot: THe Se/Le's were both INFI. I miss read the OP.

 

[resinguy]

Somebody (DWRW?) did a full height convex on a CG Scrapper 5. PeterPHWS has an LE or SE, he may have convexed the edge.

 

[Marvin8]

Would sure love to know who it was that did the full height convex. Seems it would thin the blade out too much, but I'd love to know how it turned out. If you remember who it was, that'd be cool. As for that PeterPHWS who convexed the edge, I'll see if I can look him up and send a message. Thanks!

 

[PeterPHWS]

Was gonna round the shoulders on the secondary bevel, but am a bit concerned due to the rather steep grind of the blade. Thoughts? Can it be done safely without thinning the blade too much?

Also, anybody know the difference between a Scrapper 5 LE and the SE version? One person listed the SE as a tiny bit thicker than the LE, but I'm not really sure if that was an accurate measurement.

Thanks!

Yes you can do it safely :thumbup:

I did just that on mine. I took a black marking pen and coloured the edge then gently took it to the belt sander .... up towards the top pully where the tension is tight .... made a few passes either side to give the "V" grind an appleseed shape .... used a jewllers loop or a maginifying glass would work just as well to examine the removal of metal from the edge .... the idea being to leave ink right at the apex of the edge and just "round" the outer edges .... then use a leather strop and green rouge to strop the factory edge apex to a finer/sharper level .... as there is no sense in wasting steel doing a full reprofile .... the new edge was "great" .... worked well for a good while and since then all I have done is maybe give the knife one pass either side and then strop it again if I want to bring the edge back.

Testing edge angles to determine if the edge is perhaps a little "too fine" and prone to "rolling" is easily done by doing a bit of carving ....

I make either "pot hangers" or maybe just do a "practise stick" using various different cuts to see how the edge holds up. Do enough of these things and you soon get a good idea of what works best .....

All edges will "roll" after a lot of work .... I try and carve a point on one end of the stick I work with and after some hard use with "right handed cuts" I use the knife in my left hand on the point whittling it back to re-align the edge if I think I might have took it a little thin ... it works well in the field for a simple resolution. Next time I come to sharpen the knife I just strop it at a slightly higher angle ....

Whichever way you do it though .... you won't tear the edge unless you go crazy thin .... and convexing the edge makes for a much longer lasting edge which is easier to maintain in the field by "stropping" ....

 

[Marvin8]

THANKS ever so much for chiming in, Peter! Will follow your suggestions and see how it turns out. Thanks for the pics as well.

Ran

 

[DWRW]

Somebody (DWRW?) did a full height convex on a CG Scrapper 5. PeterPHWS has an LE or SE, he may have convexed the edge.

I have actually stripped and convexed two S5CG's. One for myself and one for a friend. However, I didn't full height convex my blades. I wanted and left the saber grind on both that I did.

Full height grind would thin out the over-all blade and make the blade a bit more of a slender slicer (more like the Bog Dog), but the blade should still be plenty stout and tough for most uses of a knife of the S5's size (still thicker than the Bog Dog). I already have a Bog Dog, so I wanted to keep the thicker saber grind for variety and seperation from my super-slim/super-light Bog Dog. IMO, the S5 is not a prybar styled knife. But, a GREAT knife and great tool. So, if using for cutting, a Full height convexed blade on the S5 should be fine and arguably better in some ways. :thumbup: - these things always have some compromise.

On obth of the two I did, I removed the ramp, rounded the choil and blended (reshaped) the index finger portion of the Res-C forward into the back of the metal portion of the guard for closer more natural and balanced feel (IMO). - Basically, I removed the "Nub" of Res-C in front of the index finger and created a "single" guard of Res-C blended into metal guard as opposed to the double bump - effectively double guard of Res-C and metal.


Here is the one I did for a friend (prior to flared tube being re-installed):

Here is mine with a bit of a drop to the point (I think the above version came out nicer - I removed the Res-C handle on the above knife to be able to do better work. But, I did mine first and I did not remove the Res-C handle on mine - which results in a slightly lesser quality end result - especially at the ricasso. Now I feel I need to work on mine a bit more. ) - However, they both "WORK"/function/cut VERY well and both feel great in hand. I like the S5 a lot. But, I am partial to satin, convex edges, rounded choil and no ramp. (.... and I prefer the Res-C modification as well.) :

Ban did a full height convex. His work looks PRO-fessional. I think my home-hobbiest-hack work comes out decent, but "looks" home-hacked compared to Ban's.

Ban's:

Ban's blade and edge both appear to be thinned a fair amount. His edge looks to have a thinner convex than mine. I am sure Ban's edge cuts VERY well. Mine may not be as thin, but I know mine cuts VERY well. SR-101 gets WICKED sharp.


See Ban's post: http://www.scrapyardknives.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=328505&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Norcalblacktail does VERY fine work as well. :thumbup: He may have done a S5 (???) I can't remember.

.

 

[resinguy]

Oh man, those look good. :thumbup:

Now I think I need to do a convex/ghetto satin job on mine.

 

[thebrain]

I have a quick Question, If you remove the flaired tube does the Res-C just slide off?

 

[resinguy]

I read a post by Ban where he said it's on pretty tight. You have to clamp the blade in a vise and drive the handle off.

 

[Marvin8]

DWRW,

FANTASTIC work!!! I hope mine comes out half as well as yours, but I can foresee having some difficulty with the Res-C handle. Btw, how in the world did you remove the handle? I would think it would have been epoxied on. THANKS for the pics!!!
Yeah, I'm a little afraid to do a full-height convex for the reason you've stated...it might thin the blade out too much. If I was gonna go that far, I think that handing it off to a pro might indeed be the best idea. I LOVE convex grinds!

 

[gofastalot]

Excellent work DRDW. Both of the ones you did look amazingly sweet.

 

[DWRW]

I have a quick Question, If you remove the flaired tube does the Res-C just slide off?

Not exactly. No. But, they are not glued on either.

They are "TIGHT" friction fit with the flared tube "locking" them on.


*** Disclaimer, I am not responsible for you damaging your knife, damaging yourself or voiding your warranty. Modify knives at your own risk.

Drilling out the flared tubes could potentially be tricky as well. You need to make sure your bit doesn't lock into the tube and spin the tube. If the tube gets loose and spins, it won't cut very well with a drill bit anymore. You have to start getting creative on how to keep it from spinning or try something else like a Dremel or something.
Further, you need to make sure your bit doesn't cut and tear up the Res-C. If you tear up the Res-C, you won't be able to flare a new tube onto the Res-C.

In my opinion, cutting the flared tube isn't exactly hard, but it could be a problem in some cases and especially if done wrong.

Prior to drilling out the flared tube, I "HIGHLY" recommend taping up the blades edge for safety!.... Then leave the tape on for removing the handle as well!


To remove the handle, I actually learned a trick from Ban. I hope it is OK to share. Clamp the blade secure (use more tape on blade if concerned about clamp damaging the finish). Use a square stick up against the tang at the Ricasso above the Res-C and basically baton the Res-C off of the tang with light taps alternating sides if needed. Try not to damage the Res-C with the stick. The Res-C tends to be locked/pinched on at first, but it tends to break free and then starts sliding off a bit easier - although still tight at first and loosening as it gets further off.

The thicker the tang, the tighter the Res-C is likely to be.

.

 

[DWRW]

Oh man, those look good. :thumbup:

Thanks. :thumbup:

.... Now I think I need to do a convex/ghetto satin job on mine.

Post pics if you do

 

[Bigfattyt]

All look great to me!

 

[DWRW]

...I would think it would have been epoxied on.

No epoxy is used. And epoxy is not needed the way the handle is engineered to be attached to the tang. The handles stay secure with the flared tube and tight fit quite well. :thumbup:

..... Yeah, I'm a little afraid to do a full-height convex for the reason you've stated...it might thin the blade out too much.

Don't get me wrong, I would have "NO" problems with a full height grind on the S5. I would VERY likely like it a lot. The saber grind adds a bit more steel for toughness. But, for my uses and how "I" use my knife, truthfully, the full height grind would probably serve me a bit better as a thin slicer.

I kept the saber grind on my S5 mainly because I already have a thin full height flat grind on my Bog Dog and didn't want too much of a duplicate. The saber is a little tougher, but mostly for me it is aesthetics. My Bog Dog is only about 0.14" thick at the spine of a full height flat grind. VERY thin and very light weight. GREAT slicer and yet STILL plenty tough for my needs. I would have NO concerns about SR-101 at full heigh convex that would still be significantly thicker throughout the full dimensions of the blade.

... I LOVE convex grinds!

My preferences for function and use are full convex followed close enough by a convex edge with smooth transition into full height flat primary grind. :thumbup:

But, sometimes a convex edge into a flat primary grind with saber grind is fine as well. :thumbup:

.

 

[Marvin8]

Yeah, I prefer full height as well, but can make due with just an edge convex if the rest of the grind isn't too steep.