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Anybody else prefer Sheepsfoot and Wharncliff because they're easy to sharpen?
- Thread starter Ribeyeguy
- Start date
I've gotten some pretty impressive edges on my Spyderco Yojimbo II, which has a wharncliff type blade. It's the only blade of that shape that I've owned. The lack of belly makes it much, much easier to sharpen. I'm not at all impressed with S30V's edge holding, but that's another story. 
Brian.
Brian.
I've gotten some pretty impressive edges on my Spyderco Yojimbo II, which has a wharncliff type blade. It's the only blade of that shape that I've owned. The lack of belly makes it much, much easier to sharpen. I'm not at all impressed with S30V's edge holding, but that's another story.
Brian.
Which steel do you like over S30V?
I'm far from any kind of authority. I'm only speaking from my very limited experiences. From those experiences, I don't know what's so "super" about S30V. For an EDC type blade, it doesn't seem to have much additional edge holding compared to something "not super" like 8Cr13Mov.
Anyway, I'm now doing some informal testing on a blade in ZDP-189, and so far it seems to be holding it's edge quite a bit longer than S30V. It's not any kind of exact comparison though, as it's two different blades with pretty darned different shapes, grinds, and angles.
In summary I guess I can't really recommend anything. But there are a lot of people here who can! Maybe make a thread with a question about a particular type of use and a particular type of blade and I'll bet you'll get some steel recommendations.
Brian.
Anyway, I'm now doing some informal testing on a blade in ZDP-189, and so far it seems to be holding it's edge quite a bit longer than S30V. It's not any kind of exact comparison though, as it's two different blades with pretty darned different shapes, grinds, and angles.
In summary I guess I can't really recommend anything. But there are a lot of people here who can! Maybe make a thread with a question about a particular type of use and a particular type of blade and I'll bet you'll get some steel recommendations.
Brian.
I'm far from any kind of authority. I'm only speaking from my very limited experiences. From those experiences, I don't know what's so "super" about S30V. For an EDC type blade, it doesn't seem to have much additional edge holding compared to something "not super" like 8Cr13Mov.
Anyway, I'm now doing some informal testing on a blade in ZDP-189, and so far it seems to be holding it's edge quite a bit longer than S30V. It's not any kind of exact comparison though, as it's two different blades with pretty darned different shapes, grinds, and angles.
In summary I guess I can't really recommend anything. But there are a lot of people here who can! Maybe make a thread with a question about a particular type of use and a particular type of blade and I'll bet you'll get some steel recommendations.
Brian.
Anyway, I'm now doing some informal testing on a blade in ZDP-189, and so far it seems to be holding it's edge quite a bit longer than S30V. It's not any kind of exact comparison though, as it's two different blades with pretty darned different shapes, grinds, and angles.
In summary I guess I can't really recommend anything. But there are a lot of people here who can! Maybe make a thread with a question about a particular type of use and a particular type of blade and I'll bet you'll get some steel recommendations.
Brian.
- Joined
- Jan 9, 2006
- Messages
- 9,684
I love straight edge blades, particularly wharncliffes (more useful tip than sheepsfoot), mostly because they suit my cutting needs so well. The fact that they're uber easy to sharpen is just icing on the cake. :thumbup:
AFAustin
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2,494
I usually set an initial bevel with my Work Sharp KO. With wharnies, I find that can be a bit of a challenge, for me at least, in that I sometimes end up with a slight amount of upward curve at the tip instead of leaving it straight across.
Brian, did you use your WSKO on the Yojimbo?
Andrew
Brian, did you use your WSKO on the Yojimbo?
Andrew
Yes a couple of times. I was experimenting with very coarse edges, which seemed to improve edge retention for what I use that blade for. I used the stiff X100 belt on it and did some light deburring on the stiff X5. I haven't had any issues with rounding the tip on any blades I've tried, but I'm also not sharpening any soft carbon steels, which is what I assume your traditionals are made of (but I might be wrong of course). I also tend to use the WSKO at speed 7 or below, so that limits how much metal can be taken off per pass.
It's too bad you don't live close; we could compare techniques in person.
Brian.
- Joined
- May 30, 2013
- Messages
- 117
I tend to like heavy bellied for their look but i always spend more time than i would like when maintaining them.
As an EDC i like a slight amount of belly and a more or less centered tip ( delica, ppt, police3 ) and i feel i'm much more efficient in time when sharpening them than extreme bellied / recurved blades no matter the method used (204, sandpaper+ strop or freehanding on a ceramic)
Results are about the same, i just stop when i can treetop arms hairs.
I also have a yojimbo 2 but surprisingly i don't use it that often in edc as i just feel i'm needing the slight amount of belly yet nearly straight edge of my ppt.
As an EDC i like a slight amount of belly and a more or less centered tip ( delica, ppt, police3 ) and i feel i'm much more efficient in time when sharpening them than extreme bellied / recurved blades no matter the method used (204, sandpaper+ strop or freehanding on a ceramic)
Results are about the same, i just stop when i can treetop arms hairs.
I also have a yojimbo 2 but surprisingly i don't use it that often in edc as i just feel i'm needing the slight amount of belly yet nearly straight edge of my ppt.
AFAustin
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 2,494
Yes a couple of times. I was experimenting with very coarse edges, which seemed to improve edge retention for what I use that blade for. I used the stiff X100 belt on it and did some light deburring on the stiff X5. I haven't had any issues with rounding the tip on any blades I've tried, but I'm also not sharpening any soft carbon steels, which is what I assume your traditionals are made of (but I might be wrong of course). I also tend to use the WSKO at speed 7 or below, so that limits how much metal can be taken off per pass.
It's too bad you don't live close; we could compare techniques in person.
Brian,
Thanks for your reply. You're right, it's a shame everyone is so scattered since in person learning would be very helpful.
You're also right that I mainly own and sharpen softer steels. As for wharnies and the WSKO, there is some experimenting I want to do if I ever find the time.
Andrew
I like having both a straight and bellied blade available. I keep a sheepsfoot folder at my work bench, and have an AG Russell trapper with a clip point and a wharncliffe that gets a lot of carry. But I usually have something with a skinner-type profile on me too....