Anybody ever seen or broken a CS Trailmaster?

While the main body of the Trailmaster is decently strong, the tip is very weak because of the slender profile. I put a bend in the tip digging in wood (extended back about 3") and snapped a large piece off (about 2 inches) with a side pull with low force.

The guard also loosens quickly. Mine didn't come off, but did start rattling very quickly as it was used for chopping.

The handle is also not very durable. It wears quickly and becomes smooth. It is also not very resistant to being torn.

-Cliff
 
I have heard several credible stories from several sources of TM damage, especially the handles. I have great respect and regard for Cliff's opinions, [and I certainly don't doubt his test results] but I am surprised at how easily the Trailaster disintegrated in his hands. Too strong for your own good, Cliff
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Maybe they don't build 'em like they used to.
My own TM [Carbon V] took tremendous abuse over the years without serious damage. Maybe i was lucky. A coated Carbon V blade [which I asked for for quite a while before giving up] and a different handle material [isn't stag available?] would improve the knife substantially.
But my Carbon V did rust terribly. Ridiculously terribly for tough arctic use. It is a great knife, and I feel the loyalty one should always feel to an old friend, but my Busses really are better knives in every way, except perhaps speed and balance.
 
I think for the price one can get a Trailmaster, (they can be had for much less than retail), they are a decent value. As Phil stated, my friend Cliff can destroy ANYTHING but his "real world" tests are appreciated. As Cliffs' tests show, anything CAN be broken with enough hard use. What constitutes hard use or abuse is subjective and can be argued forever. One person's "hard use" is another's "abuse". I agree that the TM handle could be much better. Beside the blade, of course, guards are usually the first to show weakness on fixed blades in extreme hard use. That's why Chris Reeve one piecers are so highly regarded. Less stuff to come loose but they are more expensive. But CS or any manufacturer has to work within price guidelines and that is the case with any production knife. The TM is a good survival knife nonetheless.
As an aside, I recently aquired a knife that for me, makes me forget my Trailmaster in a hurry and for me is a far greater value. That's the Falkniven A1. This thing is a brute. It is tough, easier to carry, and is even less expensive than a TM. It also has, (again IMHO), superior steel and works far better than the TM as a camp knife if needed. I'm sure Cliff could break this one also but it is a "sleeper". If I had to choose between my TM and my A1, it would be "bye-bye" to my TM.
 
I got one comin' my way real soon in Carbon V and I'm gonna find out if this thing is as tough as what I have heard. I have a nice, knotty, 8" hard maple log ready and waiting for starters. The log, the knife or me
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. Bets?
 
has anyone tried to use gun-blue on one of these things to help rust-protect it? does it work?
 
I forgot to mentioned as HJK pointed out that yes the Trailmaster I had (as well as the Recon Scout) did rust quite readily. The sheaths are also quite poor unless CS has upgraded them in the past few years.

Concerning the A1, it is far stronger than the Trailmaster. While I don't doubt that VG-10 is stronger than Carbon V, the A1 has a much thicker tip which is probably the greatest factor in the strength difference.

-Cliff
 
...Thanks, alot Mike.
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The photo of that busted CS Trail Master almost made me lose my lunch.
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Now, I'm going to have to go sit in a dark corner somewhere and think about this one, as I thought for sure that no mortal could ever bust one of these thick monsters!.
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Dann Fassnacht
Aberdeen, WA
glockman99@hotmail.com
ICQ# 53675663

[This message has been edited by glockman99 (edited 04-04-2001).]
 
Cliff makes another good point, about the sheath. The standard sheath that came with my knife was really poor. I had a great leather one made up for me by John Freeman, who really is a knifemaker - first rate knifemaker.
 
:
Pergatory I bought 2 CS Trailmasters
2nd's. several years ago. The 1st one I bought for myself and the 2nd one for my son (because I was impressed with mine) who was at the time a platoon sergeant in charge of training at Camp Shelby MS, and I used Birchwood Casey's Cold Blue on both of them. I actually did his for tactical reasons and I liked the blue finish so much I did mine as well, not really thinking about the possible rust prevention.

I cleaned both blades immacuately(sp?) and then ran scalding hot water over the blades until they would dry instantly when removed from the water.
I then blued the blades following the directions. It has held up very well IMO.

My son's knife which saw a lot of use at Camp Shelby has never been reblued nor had mine until I dicovered a cut in the kraton and removed the handle discovering some rust underneath.
I also had a major reprofiling job after I let a friends young son use it in the woods in Arkansas cutting small saplings.
The cold blue helped a tremendous amount in preventing rust IMO.
And the fact that my son's knife didn't have a rust problem in Mississippi shows how much it helped as well. And I don't know how well he took care of it either.
I usually just wiped mine off and oiled it down once in a great while.
So the short answer is, Yes it does help to prevent rust.
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I still haven't replaced the handle on the TM, but I am replaceing the brass guard with steel and going to solder it on. The new handle will be some old time christmas tree micarta I bought several years ago at a gun show. I still haven't decided on the shape of the handle, but I do know I want it so I will know which way the edge is if I pick it up in the dark.
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HTH

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"VEGETARIAN".............
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