Anybody Fileworked a Khukuri?

J

Josh Feltman

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Feb 12, 2001
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I'm interested in adding some filework to the spine of one of my khukuris. Has anyone done this before? Pics? suggestions?
--Josh
 
I have not done any file work on anything I am afraid. I know that it would turn out...badly. I would imagine that it wouldn't be to bad if you have the basic skills, since the spine isn't fully hardened. You might want to post a question over in the shop talk area if you haven't already. There are a few guys there that do beautiful work I am sure that they could give some general pointers. Sorry to answer without really having anything to help. Good luck.:)
 
I've seen some tutorials over in the shop talk forum. I was just curious if the spine of an HI khukuri was soft enough to work. I would definitely practice on a piece of scrap metal first to minimize my chances of ruining an already beautiful khuk.

Feth-- I've been meaning to ask, is that your kitty in your avatar? I love the expression on her(?) face:)
--Josh
 
I have used a file (before I got a belt sander) to sharpen the top of a clip point. It was not alot of fun but it went fine. You would be able to work it at almost any hardness BUT it would be much harder to do in time, the physical work and it would be really rough on whatever tools you used. I would think that you would need a very good set of files and alot of desire to do it. If you do make sure to post some pics please.
 
I think Yvsa has - or at least he has wanted to do it. He offered on the Pen Knife.

You have plenty of steel to work with and the spines are softer than the edges. I would think that filework would go quicker with a Dremel-type tool, but I prefer to use Norton Needle Files for better control and more design options.

Dan
 
Dan--I was thinking of using chainsaw files. I saw a set at Wal-mart that looked like it would produce some interesting shapes. Do you think these would work?
--Josh
 
Josh - the chainsaw files are nearly the same thing and would work fine.

Just remember that the work will go slower.

Dan
 
Start out with a more basic design and only do about 1-2 inches. There are many tutorials, but nothing like doing it yourself for the first time.

It's easy to get lost on what it looks like from the top and forget that the face (sides) need(s) to be even as well. ;)
 
Another thing to consider - get some 220/400/600 wet/dry sandpaper and use it to smooth out your work. Wrap it around a small bar or dowel, or a 1/4" wide strip of leather. It does wonders for blending "oopsies". :D

Start out on a villager, that way you can give it a new finish as well.

Dan
 
I have done several spines with chain saw files. It works great, and you can make an undulating ridge by alternating sides. Try it on a piece of mild steel or brass to see if you like it first - and to get the spacing thing down. It's important to use the same angle every time so thay look the same. Good luck!
Brian
 
Hmm. Sounds like an interesting project. I might pick up some files and give this a shot myself. I'll post pics if I do.
 
Weeeeelll, it's not quite rue that I have done it to one of my khuk's, but as has been said, "I've wanted to."
However I did do the two kardas I made for my 18" AK.:D ;)
On the thin bladed one I was about half sick that day and tired as well, I know better than to work when I'm like this, but went ahead and did it anyway. It's alright, but not nearly as nice as the file work I did on the karda I made from 1/2 of a pruneing shear.:D
Really I've been waiting on a certain special khuk to do file work on.
The Foxy's Follie just might be the one!!!!

Chainsaw files are excellent for file work as they are straight instead of tapered, makes it much easier to control!!!!
But I like to do a large part of the work with my Ryobi hand grinder with carbide bits. They make a nice cut if you have the work clamped down solid and can use both hands to control the motor. any slips and you've done screwed up, especially if the bit goes Willy Nilly across the blade!!!!:(
But it's best if you clamp the work down solid even with hand tools because two hands in this case is a thousand times better than one!!!!
Dan gives some good tips!!!! Pay attention to what he's saying.:)

Oh yeah.
I like to use a magic marker to mark the work area and after it's good and dry I mark the centerline of the work and the depth or distance I'm going down the blade with.
I also mark the depth or distance I'm going to cut into the spine as well.
I mark off each side from the centerline whatever depth I think will look good.
I also like to taper mine so that the area near the handle is deeper both down from the spine and into the spine and go shallower both ways the further down the blade I go.
It takes some practice to figure out what you want and how to do it, I think it's a good idea to work on a piece of hardwood the approximate thickness of the blade I'm gonna do.
A practice pice lets you know in advance what your filework is gonna look like and about how difficult it will be.
Keep it simple at first and then work up to the more complicated designs.

Good Luck!!!!:D
 
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