Anybody got a Queen fixed blade?

Guyon

Guyon

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Been looking at some Queen knives to try D2 steel.

They make a few nice looking fixed blades, including a Canoe model and a Deer Hunter model. They even have "stag bone" handles from Argentina cattle; these look decent in the pics.

Anybody tried one of these? Any reports on Queen D2 (fixed blade or slip joint) in general?
 
Queen has fabuluous quality. They made all the "Case Classics" a few years back. They also produce folders for Winchester and Marbles. They are not a well known brand but the quality is superb. Try one of the Schatt & Morgan models for a really great limited production knife.
 
I have seen, handled and used all the new models. The steel seems to have a decent heat treat and holds an edge well. The blades are of thin stock (approx. 1/8") and they are ground fairly thin as well. I have seen some with the edge bevel quite obtuse and uneven. They cut quite well once the bevels are evened up and thinned if necessary. I don't really care for the aluminum guard as it still has noticeable casting? marks. The handles are pretty well finished though. Sheaths I would give a 5 out of 10. They look OK but could really use a nice welt in there to keep them from cutting the stitching at the tip. The little plastic liners that come with them are basically worthless IMO.

The best thing about these new knives is their blade profiles. There just are not many companies making the long, slim blade like that featured on the deer hunter. In my neck of the woods, this style defines "deer knife". Kabar and Case come to mind, and neither currently offers the value that these new Queens do.

All in all, I think they are a great knife for $30. Definitely not junk.
 
I agree completely with baldeman 13's assessment. I have a Canoe FB and find the handle shorter than I'd prefer for my average sized hands. A diamond hone is necessary to sharpen, but it does take and hold a good edge. I gave the sheath a "paraffin bath" and that improved my sense of security with it considerably.

I also have the Canoe slipjoint. It's a hefty piece of steel. Took some work to get it sharp. The large blade does exhibit some lateral looseness.

I'd say Queen quality is far from "fabulous", but for the money it is quite good.
 
The other's comments pretty much concur with my own. I have the skinner model in jigged bone. The handle is a bit compact, the guard has casting marks on it and the blade needed to be re-ground to a more acute edge bevel. After taking the edge down to ~20 degrees it cuts like crazy and holds a great edge. It looks like they have a good heat treat on these D-2 models.
The sheaths are not first rate, but, they are fairly serviceable. They are about 7-8 oz leather with a plastic insert and are the pouch type variety and cover about 90% of the knife's overall length.

All in all, IMO, these knives are pretty much no frills workers and do a decent job of it for the money spent(all $30.00+ of it).
 
Thanks for all the great input. I might just go ahead and order one of the deer hunter models. One thing that attracts me is the long, slim blade profile that blademan 13 mentions. If you've ever dressed a deer, you know that such a profile is quite handy when you have to cut around the anus and remove the last part of the large intestine.

Couple of questions....

Can the cast marks on the blade guard be buffed out? (Dremel with polishing wheel and some Flitz maybe?)

What does a paraffin (wax, right?) bath do for a leather sheath?
 
I don't see why the casting marks couldn't be dealt with easily. As for the paraffin, I actually use a mixture of paraffin wax and bees wax, but there as many "receipes" as people who do this. You dip/paint, again many methods, the sheath with the melted mixture. It darkens, stiffens and increases the density of the leather. The degree to which it does all this is a function of mixture and method. And of course it completely and permanently waterproofs the leather. If you search on BF you'll find threads on the subject that detail methods and receipes.
 
Guyon,

The casting marks can easily be removed. They almost appear more as a burr running vertically down the front of the guard. You can use either a sharp blade or a fine jeweler's file to remove it first and then polish it.
 
I just got mine in...and it is an amazing knife for the money. The blade is flad ground D2, measuring 5/32 at the thickest part of its spine. The handle is checkered slab micarta (other options avalible, but mine is the bottom one in the picture)

4180.jpg


It came very sharp...along with a nice D2-steel Winterbottom-Series (model 64WB) canoe pattern and a Model 45 FIL/EOB "big chief" knife (great & inexpensive backcountry small game/fishing knife at only $12.50!!!).

The only thing I don't like is the checkering on the handle and the "Queen Cutlery Co #4180" etching on the blade. The sheath is well-made from high-quality kydex-lined leather.

All in all, (3) great knives. :)

Interested? Try: http://www.queencutlerycollectors.com/
 
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