I ordered one out of there sale flyer and got it today, not a bad little piece for 25.00 but when I looked at the edge it wasnt there. The grind lines are really uneven and in some places the edge is totally flat. Can I file and stone a better edge on or do I need to make friends with somebody that owns a belt grinder.
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Anybody know how to put an edge on a CS Vietnam Tomahawk
- Thread starter Cyblade
- Start date
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- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 1,385
I used a good file, then a large benchstone. I followed the contour of the factory "edge". If you reprofile to a thinner edge, it will take some work to remove that amount of metal.
I ground leading and trailing edges on to mine so that it will cut better on a thrust or a pull. It took the better part of an hour with a file and a Hewlett Jewelstick. The leading/trailing edges were uneven and I couldn't use the benchstone effectively, so the Jewelstick was substituted.
I also wrapped the handle with some fabric rigger's tape to get a less slippery grip. I've heard of people using tennis racquet handle wrap or bicycle handlebar wrap.
I ground leading and trailing edges on to mine so that it will cut better on a thrust or a pull. It took the better part of an hour with a file and a Hewlett Jewelstick. The leading/trailing edges were uneven and I couldn't use the benchstone effectively, so the Jewelstick was substituted.
I also wrapped the handle with some fabric rigger's tape to get a less slippery grip. I've heard of people using tennis racquet handle wrap or bicycle handlebar wrap.
I did pretty much what DwK did (above thread) with my CS Frontier, used a file & "free handed" with a medium Sharpmaker stick. Not a great edge but it'll stick when thrown & cut smaller branches well, which is all I use it for.
Not a bad $20.00 tomahawk at all, but it'll never be mistaken for a "premium".
Not a bad $20.00 tomahawk at all, but it'll never be mistaken for a "premium".
- Joined
- Nov 9, 1999
- Messages
- 1,137
The great big "Taiwan" on the head pretty much says it all. I bought one a week ago (saw the exact same CS flyer) and when I got it I was slightly disappointed. Being too lazy to send it back however I have stripped the ugly paint off of it and am currently in the process of making it quite a nice looking hawk. I don't like the spike. It's uneven. Not to mention there isn't a sharp edge or point on the damn thing. Still, $25...
- Joined
- Jan 26, 2000
- Messages
- 2,573
I got a few from the same flyer. They don't have a cutting edge at all. I guess I'll be spending a lot of time with a file. I'm surprised because everything else I have from Cold Steel has good edges, even the Bushman which is usually under $20.00, so it isn't a price thing. I don't really feel ripped off, though, but I would if I paid the original price. The factory second SRK and recon Tanto I got in that order were great, though.
I have some questions for anyone who may know the answers:
Are all Cold Steel tomahawks like this? I was thinking of buying the others, but after the ones I have I'm not so sure.
I have a hard time getting the tomahawk out of the sheath. I can't imagine actually drawing it in a self defense situation. Do the other Cold Steel tomahawks or tomahawks from other companies like American Tomahawk have similar problems?
How are the edges on the other popular brands?
Thanks,
Ben
I have some questions for anyone who may know the answers:
Are all Cold Steel tomahawks like this? I was thinking of buying the others, but after the ones I have I'm not so sure.
I have a hard time getting the tomahawk out of the sheath. I can't imagine actually drawing it in a self defense situation. Do the other Cold Steel tomahawks or tomahawks from other companies like American Tomahawk have similar problems?
How are the edges on the other popular brands?
Thanks,
Ben
- Joined
- Apr 21, 2001
- Messages
- 1,385
Ben,
Many times the other CS hawks also come pretty dull. The sheaths are no faster, but it's hard to expect a quick-draw concealex rig for that price.
The more expensive hawks come sharper. Two Hawks' work will shave your arm, no problem. www.2hawks.net I'm not familiar with the carry options offered by all the major makers so I can't answer that question.
Many times the other CS hawks also come pretty dull. The sheaths are no faster, but it's hard to expect a quick-draw concealex rig for that price.
The more expensive hawks come sharper. Two Hawks' work will shave your arm, no problem. www.2hawks.net I'm not familiar with the carry options offered by all the major makers so I can't answer that question.
CS tomahawks in the Peter LaGana format are best sharpened for use in the following manner.
Contact a knifemaker or a professional sharpening service and ask him or her to do the work for you.
I've had 3 CS VN style tomahawks professionally sharpened by knife maker Bill Buchman. They were returned with an exceptional working edge on all those surfaces that require being sharpened per Mr. LaGana.
These include the primary cutting/chopping edge, the bottom edge (for hooking / slicing), and those edges on the spike portion of the tomahawk head (4 in all).
Having purchased one of the numbered LaGana Tomahawks from BQ recently I discovered it, too, required additional sharpening of all those edges noted above. I had this 'hawk professionally sharpened by knifemaker Woody Woodcock. In this instance the spike was acceptable given its intended design use to puncture light headwear and skull bone. The primary and bottom edges of the 'hawk needed to be brought up to snuff and this took about 20 minutes for Mr. Woodcock to accomplish.
Because the head is affixed to the handle in the manner it is, the handle was marred during the sharpening / buffing process. This cosmetic issue was squared away by 5 minutes of staining and hand rubbing. Clearly if one is buying such a piece for its collector value then leaving it intact as sent from the vendor is necessary.
I've owned an original VN Tomahawk (pristine condition) and noted it would have required final sharpening by its owner upon purchase, as well. I've also enjoyed the opportunity to have interviewed Mr. LaGana formally, and have both his throwing and VN Tomahawk manuals as published during the heyday of the American Tomahawk Company in the 60s.
Sheathwise the CS leather sheath is acceptable if you weatherproof it as you would a pair of leather hiking boots. The Eagle sheath that comes with the numbered model from BQ is sturdy to beat the band. It is also near impossible to draw the 'hawk from swiftly, and is a bear to replace the 'hawk in afterward if you've mounted it on your belt or combat harness / rucksack.
I just saw where Jeff Loffer of Cutlery Shoppe is offering both a kydex-style belt sheath and / or shoulder harness for the VN 'hawks. This is the way to go for those who are planning to carry this piece of "cold weapon" into the combat environment. The multiple sharpened edges require the best possible user protection during storage and carry, as well as during the draw stroke and replacement into the sheath. I believe Loffer has this covered with his kydex-style sheathwork.
Training 'hawks used to be available from Jim Keating at COMTECH (VN 'hawk model). Sadly, I don't know that Mr. Keating offers this wonderful training tool any longer. Initial schooling in the use of the VN 'hawk first began at Keating's Riddle of Steel on the Snake River. Jim once did a video (as I best recall) on tomahawk work and this may still be available from him at COMTECH.
It would be wonderful if Mr. LaGana would consider re-releasing his "how-to" handbook on the VN Tomahawk. This is a handy little guide for this specific 'hawk and from the man who designed it and made it happen. I particularly enjoyed learning how to fully use the entire design matrix of the VN 'hawk, to include handle strikes / hooking / choking / and slapping. The handle itself is designed for swift reversal of the head so one can (for example) hook, drag, reverse, then strike with the spike. Using the 'hawk to parry incoming strikes from different weapons systems (knife, empty hand, rifle, rifle with bayonet, machete, opposing 'hawk) is likewise possible and was taught by Mr. LaGana.
Overall this is a fine weapon with as much practical application today as when it first was made available in the 60s to our forces in VN. I'm delighted to see Peter once again in control of his design and offering high quality product to those who value its worth as either a collector piece or working tool.
I trust the above is helpful to those of you looking for such information.
Contact a knifemaker or a professional sharpening service and ask him or her to do the work for you.
I've had 3 CS VN style tomahawks professionally sharpened by knife maker Bill Buchman. They were returned with an exceptional working edge on all those surfaces that require being sharpened per Mr. LaGana.
These include the primary cutting/chopping edge, the bottom edge (for hooking / slicing), and those edges on the spike portion of the tomahawk head (4 in all).
Having purchased one of the numbered LaGana Tomahawks from BQ recently I discovered it, too, required additional sharpening of all those edges noted above. I had this 'hawk professionally sharpened by knifemaker Woody Woodcock. In this instance the spike was acceptable given its intended design use to puncture light headwear and skull bone. The primary and bottom edges of the 'hawk needed to be brought up to snuff and this took about 20 minutes for Mr. Woodcock to accomplish.
Because the head is affixed to the handle in the manner it is, the handle was marred during the sharpening / buffing process. This cosmetic issue was squared away by 5 minutes of staining and hand rubbing. Clearly if one is buying such a piece for its collector value then leaving it intact as sent from the vendor is necessary.
I've owned an original VN Tomahawk (pristine condition) and noted it would have required final sharpening by its owner upon purchase, as well. I've also enjoyed the opportunity to have interviewed Mr. LaGana formally, and have both his throwing and VN Tomahawk manuals as published during the heyday of the American Tomahawk Company in the 60s.
Sheathwise the CS leather sheath is acceptable if you weatherproof it as you would a pair of leather hiking boots. The Eagle sheath that comes with the numbered model from BQ is sturdy to beat the band. It is also near impossible to draw the 'hawk from swiftly, and is a bear to replace the 'hawk in afterward if you've mounted it on your belt or combat harness / rucksack.
I just saw where Jeff Loffer of Cutlery Shoppe is offering both a kydex-style belt sheath and / or shoulder harness for the VN 'hawks. This is the way to go for those who are planning to carry this piece of "cold weapon" into the combat environment. The multiple sharpened edges require the best possible user protection during storage and carry, as well as during the draw stroke and replacement into the sheath. I believe Loffer has this covered with his kydex-style sheathwork.
Training 'hawks used to be available from Jim Keating at COMTECH (VN 'hawk model). Sadly, I don't know that Mr. Keating offers this wonderful training tool any longer. Initial schooling in the use of the VN 'hawk first began at Keating's Riddle of Steel on the Snake River. Jim once did a video (as I best recall) on tomahawk work and this may still be available from him at COMTECH.
It would be wonderful if Mr. LaGana would consider re-releasing his "how-to" handbook on the VN Tomahawk. This is a handy little guide for this specific 'hawk and from the man who designed it and made it happen. I particularly enjoyed learning how to fully use the entire design matrix of the VN 'hawk, to include handle strikes / hooking / choking / and slapping. The handle itself is designed for swift reversal of the head so one can (for example) hook, drag, reverse, then strike with the spike. Using the 'hawk to parry incoming strikes from different weapons systems (knife, empty hand, rifle, rifle with bayonet, machete, opposing 'hawk) is likewise possible and was taught by Mr. LaGana.
Overall this is a fine weapon with as much practical application today as when it first was made available in the 60s to our forces in VN. I'm delighted to see Peter once again in control of his design and offering high quality product to those who value its worth as either a collector piece or working tool.
I trust the above is helpful to those of you looking for such information.
- Joined
- Nov 9, 1999
- Messages
- 1,137
For anyone interested in how my customizing of the CS Vietnam hawk is going I've taken a picture. Crummy picture, agreed, but it looks good in person. Stripped off the paint, ground the egde and spike even, blued the head, stained and sealed the handle. Also note the 'skull crusher' spike I've added to the bottom. Not very usefull I'll admit but it looks pretty cool, right? Made it with a bolt, a nut, and a piece of mild steel.
I have a question for those of you who have seen/held a real one: Are the top and bottom on the front of the head supposed to be sharp? I assumed not or I would have sharpened them.
I have a question for those of you who have seen/held a real one: Are the top and bottom on the front of the head supposed to be sharp? I assumed not or I would have sharpened them.
Yes.
The bottom edge is sharpened to assist in cutting while using the 'hawk to catch or hook an opponent's foot, leg, wrist, arm, neck, and so on. Top edge, as well, to cut / slice during backstrokes / cuts or under those conditions where, for example, the fighter might find himself using that portion of the head to hold down / attack his opponent (gripping the handle with one or both hands and pressing / cutting using the sharpened upper edge of the head).
Every aspect of the VN 'hawk was designed to be useful in CQB. The originals were semi-sharp and like many issue or production blades it was felt the end user would be responsible for finishing off as best he could the "rough" edges to his satisfaction.
Further customizing of the 'hawk is smart as long as the additions are indeed practical for CQB. The use of "sticky" tape on the handle to improve grip; sealing the handle to protect the wood from the elements; and adding the skull crusher pommel piece (not too much, just enough) are good examples.
Pete LaGana created a wonderful design which then underwent some subtle evolutions until the final VN production model went its course. He, as most such designers, made what he believed was the best possible design and product for both his use and experience as well as the general user group he wanted to reach at the time.
Any good product can be enhanced. Any good product can be loused up. In the end knowing the history of the product and developing - if this is your desire - the skill to use it under those conditions it was designed for - is the best combination to fully appreciate the tool and whatever it is one might add to or take away from it.
The bottom edge is sharpened to assist in cutting while using the 'hawk to catch or hook an opponent's foot, leg, wrist, arm, neck, and so on. Top edge, as well, to cut / slice during backstrokes / cuts or under those conditions where, for example, the fighter might find himself using that portion of the head to hold down / attack his opponent (gripping the handle with one or both hands and pressing / cutting using the sharpened upper edge of the head).
Every aspect of the VN 'hawk was designed to be useful in CQB. The originals were semi-sharp and like many issue or production blades it was felt the end user would be responsible for finishing off as best he could the "rough" edges to his satisfaction.
Further customizing of the 'hawk is smart as long as the additions are indeed practical for CQB. The use of "sticky" tape on the handle to improve grip; sealing the handle to protect the wood from the elements; and adding the skull crusher pommel piece (not too much, just enough) are good examples.
Pete LaGana created a wonderful design which then underwent some subtle evolutions until the final VN production model went its course. He, as most such designers, made what he believed was the best possible design and product for both his use and experience as well as the general user group he wanted to reach at the time.
Any good product can be enhanced. Any good product can be loused up. In the end knowing the history of the product and developing - if this is your desire - the skill to use it under those conditions it was designed for - is the best combination to fully appreciate the tool and whatever it is one might add to or take away from it.