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Anybody use TufGlide lube on their Sebbies?

Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Messages
1,801
Just as the title says, I'm wondering if any of you guys/gals have used Sentry Solution's TufGlide dry lubricant on your CRKs instead of the fluorinated grease? I've been using the fluorinated grease, but I'm starting to feel it's more hype than anything. I've owned a lot of pocket knives, and I've never had a knife that I had to take apart and clean/lube every two weeks to keep it opening and closing smoothly like I do with my Sebenzas. It's kinda frustrating to be able to pick up one of my Benchmades that I haven't cleaned or lubed in months, and have it just as silky smoothe as ever. I mean, I know the BM Axis lock isn't putting the same pressure on the blade like a frame lock is, but when my Sebenza goes from pretty silky smoothe after a clean/lube to gritty and sticky feeling after 2 weeks of use, it's time to do something different. I just feel like the CRK grease gets gummy and dirty too quickly. I can clean and put fresh grease in my knife, and a week later, pull it apart and find pure black grease in the washer holes. Anyway, sorry for the long winded post, but what have you guys/gals found to be a better option for lubing your CRKs? I use the Tuff Cloth on all my knife blades, but haven't tried the TufGlide yet. Is the "active ingredient" in the two the same thing? I guess I could try just wiping my washers and blade with the cloth and put it back together to see how that works, but figured I'd ask you guys as well.

TIA
 
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Yes I do. Serves me well.
Is it possible to apply too much of the flourinated grease?
red mag
 
Yes I do. Serves me well.
Is it possible to apply too much of the flourinated grease?
red mag

I believe it is possible to put too much, but I don't feel like I'm doing that. I smear a small amount on the blade, and then set the washer on top of it, then put little tiny dabs of lube in each hole. When I slide the blade/washer assembly back into the handles, I get very little if any lube collecting on the scales. I don't put lube on the outer edge of the washers since the washers don't even move in relation to the handles once assembled, so there's no need for lube on that side to begin with. The only thing that moves is the blade. I know it's supposed to be a sin to mess with the lockbar tension on your CRK, but I have done that on mine to make opening smoother. It's still enough tension to keep the lock in place, and hasn't affected the lockup, but it has made a difference in the opening smoothness. I don't spine wack my knives, or baton with them, so I don't feel I've done anything to compromise the safety of the locking mechanism by adjusting the tension. I think I may clean the knife again, and rub my Tuf Cloth on the blade and washers, and see how well that does. I seem to recall the Tuf Glide being the same stuff the Tuf Cloth is impregnated with, so we'll see.
 
I use Tuf Glide on my Sebenzas. I feel that it is better than the grease.
 
I started using TuffGlide on my knives fifteen years ago but I stopped using it maybe five years ago. It's a great anti-corrosion product but as a lubricant I found a lot of grit and $h!t in the knives when I took them apart.
 
Well, I took my Sebbie apart just a bit ago, cleaned everything of the fluorinated grease (which I had put there less than a week ago and it was already turning dark grey), and I rubbed everything down with my Tuf Cloth (washers, blade, ceramic ball on lockbar, pivot bushing) and put the knife back together. Well, that sucked. Not smoothe at all. Not sure if the Tuff Glide is any better after it dries, but it definitely wasn't as smoothe as a new coat of Fluorinated grease. So needless to say, I pulled the blade out, and added another thin layer of grease to both sides of the blade and in each washer hole, then put it back together. Very smoothe. I just wish this buttery smoothe opening and closing would last more than two weeks before starting to feel gunky again. Oh well, my search for a better lube continues I guess....
 
I have found that when you first apply the Tuf Glide, the pivot is not very smooth. However, it smooths out overnight.
 
I use tufglide on a lot of my knives but I do tend to use the CRK grease for my Sebenza, Mnandi and Umnumzaan. I don't know if it's any better or worse but I've got it so I may as well use it. Both have done me just fine at the end of the day. :):thumbup:
 
I have gotten good results from Militec-1 havent tried the tuf glide but I will now...the crk grease I find feels a little gritty if opened too many times in a short period of time.
 
I have found that when you first apply the Tuf Glide, the pivot is not very smooth. However, it smooths out overnight.

TG is mostly mineral spirits as a carrier out of the bottle. It takes a day or two for the carrier to evaporate.
 
I ordered some Militech-1 today. I remember that being highly recommended by Benchmade years ago, and buying a bottle on that account back then. Not sure what happened to that little bottle though, so I just ordered another. Should be at my house when I come home next week from Afghanistan. I also read up on the stuff again, and found it's pretty harmless, so I won't have to worry too much about cross contamination of food I may cut if some happens to 'bond' to my blade during application or use. If I find it doesn't work that well on the Sebbies, I still have plenty of Benchmades and firearms to use it on, so all won't be lost...
 
The problem with the grease may be your enviroment. Saw in your last post that your in Afghanistan. Grease is not the best idea in that type of enviroment.
I personally have great luck with the Benchmade Blue Lube. I have used TufGlide, but not by itself. I usually use it mixed with some other lube.
 
In a sandy environment, my personal choice would be a CLP-type product to promote flushing/cleaning of the lube. I might even run it dry. Let's face it - these are not Formula 1 engines turning ~19K rpm. :D
 
I use a lot of different stuff but for these knives I like Mobil 1 or RIG's +P Stainless Steel Lube. I bought a two oz jar of the RIG grease more than twenty years ago and I think it still has 90% plus left in it. Still has the price tag on it. Back in the 80's in $3.40 :)
 
I might even run it dry. Let's face it - these are not Formula 1 engines turning ~19K rpm. :D

Tried that too, and it was not even close to being smoothe. Formula 1 engine or not, it shouldn't feel like it has square wheels on it either. I can run my Osborne Benchmades dry, and they're still like bearings on glass. I just wish my $400 knives were half that smoothe. I'll get it worked out eventually, or I'll just have to keep cleaning and re-lubing every two weeks. :rolleyes:
 
I find that the tuff glides and millitecs are to thin and lack the viscosity needed for the all metal pivot area.
I also find they dissapate alot sooner than the longer lasting grease although its pretty easy to just squirt a
few more drops of oil in the pivot to lube it up again.
Also the thinner oil seems to attract more lint and dirt because it can spread to places you didnt intend for
it to go. The grease does a good job of staying in the exact area in the pivot.
 
I use CLP on my Sebenzas with very good results. Slick and smooth. Not sure that it lasts a long time but it does make for smooth action. I am ordering some CRK grease today to see how it compairs.
 
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