Anyone else ever throw their arm out sharpening?

OilMan

Gold Member
Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
4,283
It took me around 2 1/2 hours the other day of continous grinding on a DMT stone layed on my sharpmaker stones to re profile a Swamp Rat Battle Rat to 40 degrees inclusive and now my elbow hurts like heck. To make it funner yet the straight edge was pretty close to 20 degrees to start out but the belly and point had a slightly different grind to it so that's where I spent most of my time. (Besides the Penitrator tip) To get the belly and tip angle correctly I had my shoulder way up in the air for just about the full time. Ow. It's also the biggest knife I've ever reprofiled on my SM which was kinda weird.

Does anyone else sharpen BIG knives on their Sharp Maker? I've been meaning to make wood blocks set at 20 and 15 degrees for my DMT stones for exactly this but haven't gotten around to it yet. And if I'm ever brave enough to use my 2 x 48 grinder this would be a lot easier on the arm I'm thinkin.:thumbup:

Or... maybe I'm just a whiny wuss. You decide.:D

later,

oil
 
I never really hurt my arm sharpening/reprofiling knives, but I did spend about a week reprofiling some bargain (aka junk) kitchen knives that I got to about a 20 degree angle per side (this was just on the big chef's knife). I ended up getting tired of spending all day with my course Lanskey stone, so I broke out a file and files it down. Once I got it close, I put it into my Chef's choice sharpener grinding wheels stage. This was a lot easier than filing it all day and made it to where it is usable (untile I get some decent kitchen knives).

Anyway, you might want to try a file next time you reprofile and edge to get quicker rough results, then move down to coarse, med, fine etc stones... Then again, this may not be the best thing for your blade, but it worked fine for me (and I didn't really care if I messed the knife up at that point).
 
ThreadMoving.jpg
 
I sharpen my katanas on them, but I found it easier to drag the stones instead of the blades. :>)
 
OilMan said:
It took me around 2 1/2 hours the other day of continous grinding on a DMT stone layed on my sharpmaker stones to re profile a Swamp Rat Battle Rat to 40 degrees inclusive and now my elbow hurts like heck.

This is 5-10 minutes with a x-coarse waterstone. Break out the belt sander, it isn't as hard as you think it is, just try it with something cheap.

planza said:
I...you might want to try a file next time.

Files won't work well on a lot of harder and high alloy cutlery steels. On some the cutting action will actually be reversed.

-Cliff
 
GFarrell3 said:
I sharpen my katanas on them, but I found it easier to drag the stones instead of the blades. :>)
...how do your katanas get dull?????
;)

I'd say the file idea sounds good... Personally, the only knife I'll sharpen on a powered grider is my old bait knife (no-name lockback, probably cost me <$2 at a tackle shop a decade ago, purchased when I had no other knife on me and was already on the fishing pier).

Bengay? Icy Hot? Sexy Swedish masseuse?

Peace.
Alex.
 
How many cold ones were you hoisting with that elbow while you were sharpening? Are you sure you were using the right side of the DMT whetstone?

Get well soon!
 
Cliff,
I've been meaning to ask you, I have a Busse Basic 9? and it came with directions on how to sharpen it the Busse way (only sharpen one side and the other side is convex IIRC). Would you sharpen it the regular way, both sides, or would you do it the Busse way? I currently use it as my weed wacker if that makes a difference. And I'm gonna let my arm un sorify before I even think about re profiling the Basic.

And while I'm on the subject, the Basic 9 seems like it was what the Battle Rat was designed from but I like the handle on the Basic better. The Battle Rat's handle was actually more comfortable for me if I held it backwards. (Not upside down but backwards so the spine is where the sharp side would normally be.) Just thought I'd mention it.

thanks,

oil
 
I would sharpen it as with any other blade, the one side honing was mainly for field sharpening to allow similar methods to be used as on chisel ground edges without the drawbacks of such. Interesting comments about the handle.

-Cliff
 
Oilman this may sound radical but part of the problem you have is a obsession with getting a certian angle on the back bevel.

Lighten up and enjoy life then try this.....

Grab the knife in your hand and grab the DMT stone in the other using it like a file knock the edge back until it looks right. With a little practice you can do this really fast and well.

Polish that rough cut back bevel up with a ceramic stone or rod.

You should have less than 20 mins in at this point.

Using a fine stone or rod cut your microbevel. ( About five passes on each side of the blade)

Then strop. Less than 30 mins for a big reprofile job.

It is my OPINION (for me) that balanceing a stone on a sharpmaker or anything else is silly.
 
bigjim said:
Oilman this may sound radical but part of the problem you have is a obsession with getting a certian angle on the back bevel.

I agree, it has to be perfect.:thumbup: Finally, someone who "gets" me.:D

oil
 
6 hours with a sharpmaker... made the mistake of using my paramilie to scrap paint off of a BM clip. boy was that thing dull afterwards, but at least the clip was bOOtiful.
 
Back
Top