Anyone else have an issue with CRK wood?

Joined
Nov 14, 2006
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I just took possession of my second Mnandi (with a Damascus blade) and I noticed again that their woodworking skills are not up to their metal-finishing skills, specifically, wood inlays suffer from small grain marks not being filled in.

I know final finishing of wood is costly and time consuming with a not inconsiderable learning curve. That said, it seldom takes me more than about five to ten minutes of work to fill any grain and knock the finish flat on CRK products.

I'll disassemble the knife, use a clear stock varnish to fill in any grain then sand flat on 400 grit wet-dry paper and finish with 800 and/or 1200 grit to the polish level I want.

I've done this to both my first Mnandi and an Ebony inlaid small Sebenza. It takes just minutes (once you're set up) and really improves the look of the knife.

I've noticed the same on his wood-handled fixed blades too, like the NICA Limited recently on this forum.

Anyone else suffer from this same fetish?
 
I suffer from OCD when it comes to iron wood...
But I'm a one peice freak... Not a folder nut.

But knowing what I know and from experiance I'd seriously stay clear of any varnish. When I polish up I go way out from 400 to 3000 wet sand. But with iron wood, you can do that. And also with iron wood, if you do it right, you will not need to treat it with varnish. Just a light coat of oil evey now and then... Jojoba is a light oil to use.

But prior to varnishing anything... Please give Chris' team a call.

Side note... I know production is exploding at the Reeve's shop, but I sure wish a customer could be allowed to provide their own exotic wood for in-lays...

Be groovacious,
Toe Jam
 
I believe all their woods are stabilized and I have had no reaction in two years to the tiny dabs of stock varnish (actually just a highly refined linseed oil) I've used on the others.

I've always been partial to the matte look of a hand rubbed oil finish that has painstakingly eliminated all the pores.
 
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