Anyone ever come across an axe that was too hard to file ?

Hickory n steel

Hickory n steel

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Last weekend I found a no name Dayton hatchet ( modern and probably a cheep import ) that I took a chance on for 50 cents and it's too hard for me to file. My files are old, but still file my other axes relatively easily.
So have you ever encountered this before, and did it cause any real problems ?
I had to carefully sharpen it on my bench grinder, but not very sharp to avoid damage.
What would you guys do?
 
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Yup, my favorite boys axe. Get a fresh file and alternate between file and a course stone. Once the file smooths the bit to where it skates take the stone to it till it roughs the surface. Wipe with a damp rag and repeat.
 
Hacked said:
Yup, my favorite boys axe. Get a fresh file and alternate between file and a course stone. Once the file smooths the bit to where it skates take the stone to it till it roughs the surface. Wipe with a damp rag and repeat.
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OK I'll have to try that 👍
 
Bridger said:
Is it rusty?
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No rust on the bit.
I went and bought a 6" mill bastard from the hardware store ( cheaper than another 10" in case my file wasn't the problem )
And even it won't file it, so I'm probably gonna have to use the hacked method.
 
Surface-rust hardening can (and does) often throw 'newbie' folks into believing that they possess a mythical-hard axe. Commercial axes don't (and never have) feature these properties because a chopping implement that 'chips like crazy' or 'shatters like glass' can't/won't do serious work and will receive much more publicity then does an inferior blade that camly curls or dulls 'real quick'. Reputable axe makers have spent an inordinate amount of time and effort in trying to balance these qualities over the past 200 years.
 
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Try the coarse side of a Norton Tradesman's Stone. It has a handle like a file, and the shape of a file. I have used them for many years to sharpen broad axes with very hard tempers. There is another thread on this someware on this forum, with pictures.
 
The back and forth file / stone trick didn't work, but just the coarse side of my stone did eventually work. At first I thought it was surface hardening from rust because it does have some hard rust on the rest of the head that won't wore wheel off, but even after it been on a bench grinder it's still hard to file. Since it may have been tempered too hard have been surface hardened from rust, I'm just gonna leave it as is to maintain durability. I did discover that it says CHINA faintly on the bottom side, so I'll probably just give this one to my brother for kindling when I find something better.
I gave it a good look over when I got it home, so I'm not sure how I missed it 😳
 
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I have a Sager double bit what a file skates on. Sagers probably the hardest USA axes I experienced.
Actually right at limits of too hard. A file will just cut with alot of pressure and the instant pressure is slightly less, instantly skates. Thats a good way to ruin a file too.

I used to modify Harbor Freight axes to resell, some of those were awfully hard. That really made no difference as I was hot working their 'mods & tempering again anyway.
 
Lieblad said:
Actually right at limits of too hard. A file will just cut with alot of pressure and the instant pressure is slightly less, instantly skates. Thats a good way to ruin a file too.
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Well put. :thumbup:
 
I've come across both axes and scythe blades that are too hard to reliably file, like Lieblad mentions. But most people who think they have axes that are too hard to file either have dull files or files that are too soft. Usually both. A good metal file should not only be sharp, but it should be glassy hard. 64 RC or above, preferably--don't settle for anything lower than 62. The closer in hardness the file is to the hardness of the target material, the slower it cuts and the faster it dulls.
 
H, The first link you brought up is the one about the Tradesman's Stone. Thanks for finding that. The second thread you found is about Broad Axes.
 
I think you're right. I'll remove that one. I was just thinking of the section where you and Square_peg were coaching me on how to use the utility stone properly.
 
I like the idea of that utility stone and may eventually get one, but this hatchet is made in china so I think I'm gonna wait until I've found another axe that's too hard to file ( who knows how long it'll be before I find another head at a yard sale )

This hatchet is actually fairly sharp just not really shaving sharp.
 
If my file won't bite, I'll set the secondary bevel with my belt grinder, and file the primary edge. Saves time in my opinion.
 
A cheap diamond plate will get you started. Go to a big-name chain hardware or fishing/outdoor store, and you should see the three-packs of diamond sharpening stones China cranks out at a rate of knots.
 
If you decide to go the diamond route, Chef Knives to Go sell an extra coarse plate that's a great value. It's not a high quality as the DMT plates, but it's big and very coarse. I took a chance on one about a year ago and have been very happy with it considering it's used just to hog off metal before I switch to my coarsest waterstones.
 
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