Anyone ever drilled a titanium military for tip up?

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May 25, 2013
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I have a spyderco ti Millie on the way. It's my first military because I always like tip up (or rather lanyard hole up) carry. Well, I broke down and bought one anyway. Now I'm wondering how hard it would be to tap the titanium scales for tip up carry. Anyone?
 
Just curious, what are you planning on using to drill the initial holes before you tap them? (i.e. drill press and fixturing, mill, ect.)
 
This of course is not the same, as it is G10, but here's a pic nonetheless. It was done by a prior owner. With titanium, one would have to know what one is doing. And that's a knife you don't want to screw up too.

 
Just curious, what are you planning on using to drill the initial holes before you tap them? (i.e. drill press and fixturing, mill, ect.)

No no, I don't have the tools for it. I was considering a machine shop. I've also got a buddy that's a jeweler and watch smith. He might be able to do it. I don't know. I was hoping to hear from someone who had done it before and could offer some tips.
 
I am a machinist by trade, which is why I was curious. A small center drill run at very low speed and a solid carbide drill have always been a good combo for me in Ti. Some type of fixturing would seem only logical too. I am sure there is someone who has already done this many times and has a fixture ready to go. The actual tapping isn't much of an issue.
 
The origial clip is curved. If you want to move the clip to the ass end of the handle, you need a left hand clip. It curves in the other direction. Spyderco sells these. Slow down the speed and feed of your tap drill and use a lubricant. If you break the tap off in the Titanium, you can dissolve it out with battery acid. The Spyderco RH and LH clips are actually designed to fit around the pivot bolt. If you move the clip to the rear end, you don't really need the layout involving a triangle with a big hole in the middle, but there aren't a lot pocket clips out there that have a curve that follows the curve of the Military handle.
I have broken more taps in Titanium than drills, but the acid works on either.
 
I am a machinist by trade, which is why I was curious. A small center drill run at very low speed and a solid carbide drill have always been a good combo for me in Ti. Some type of fixturing would seem only logical too. I am sure there is someone who has already done this many times and has a fixture ready to go. The actual tapping isn't much of an issue.

Thank you. Sorry to show my ignorance, but what is "fixturing"?
 
A fixture is essentially a device or setup that will hold a part in a known location by pins or bump stops or whatever, and by knowing the location of your pins vs. the part, you can dial in the location of the screw holes. The only fixture I have seen for a military, located the scale by having pins that go through the screw holes into a plate.

As far as taps breaking in Ti goes, with my limited experience working in Ti, I have found that a spiral flute tap seems to work better as it pulls the chips up, instead of pushing them down through the part. But like I said, I have limited experience in Ti. Probably only drilled and tapped around 100 holes in varying diameters.
 
Ah, I think I understand. Would it be possible to get the holes drilled accurately without a fixture?
 
Yes. If I had to do a few of them I would build a fixture, But I wouldn't bother for one part. Even if I was going to drill and tap both sides I would just top clamp it on a piece of aluminum with strap clamps. Cheap and dirty.
 
I just drilled 25 holes in a plate. Took about 3 minutes with my press set at its lowest setting, using a hss bit and a little wd-40.

IMAG1811_zpsfc33b52d.jpg


The plate is .07" and is pure ti, not what I assume is 6AL4V in the case of your knife. Still, I'd guess that it won't be very hard to do. Especially with holes as small as you'll need to drill.

Good luck!
 
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