Anyone ever taken there F1 convex edge and put a V grind on it?

M

Mrbladedude

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Aug 2, 2010
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Just curious. Im thinking about doing this. Would it have less edge retention? Would it still slice through wood like butter?

Am i better off leaving it convex? I have an edge pro apex and i cant seem to get good at convex sharpening. I can sharpen V grinds to a razor blade.
 
I'd leave it convex and practice with paper and strops. I've found that the shoulder on a bevel is the main thing that impedes cutting.

... but your bevel will probably be micro sized so it probably wont matter much.
 
you can do it. see if you like it, you can always convex it back again. the final edge seems to be a little v anyway (microbevel) and the way the company advises to sharpen the knives puts a vgrind on it (see the dc4 instructions).
I've been sharpening/maintaining mine on a fine stone and stropping it and so far so good. I haven't done much convex sharpening on it, only once or twice in the beginning..
 
Haven't done it myself, but many have. Fallknivens own site recommends sharpening on a diamond/ceramic rod or stone combination which would result in a micro V bevel of sorts.

I'm a fan of convex, but believe the best sharpening method is the one that works best for you.

As suggested, give it a try, you can always go back to convex.

Kevin
 
If i sharpened it V grind or Convex and after a few years went up past the lamination line, will i have 420 j2 as a cutting edge or will the VG10 remain? Would it make the edge more brittle if i brought it down to a V grind?
 
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The VG10 will still be your edge. It's sandwiched through the entire blade. That's a lot of sharpening, though! A V grind should not make the edge more brittle. I usually sharpen on a stone which turns it into a V grind, just because I'm used to doing it that way. I'm not convinced either way is a big deal, as long as you have a sharp edge.
 
this topic is really interesting to me! thanks for all your statements so far.
 
sodak said:
The VG10 will still be your edge. It's sandwiched through the entire blade. That's a lot of sharpening, though! A V grind should not make the edge more brittle. I usually sharpen on a stone which turns it into a V grind, just because I'm used to doing it that way. I'm not convinced either way is a big deal, as long as you have a sharp edge.
Click to expand...

X2 :thumbup:
 
Mrbladedude said:
Anyone have pics of a V edge Fallkniven f1?
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Some Fallkniven knives are delivered from factory with a V grind bevel on the convex blade.

Not an F1, but here is a pic of a PXL folder with factory V grind, before I convexed it.

Kevin

Factory Bevel
PXLBevel.jpg


Convex Bevel
PXLConvex.jpg
 
@Dag-nabit: I sharpened my PXL using a DMT DiaFold Coarse/Fine by freehand and the pictures you have shown seems to prove that my sharpening style leads to a V-edge.

I was thinking of getting a S1 or A1 but held back due to my lack of flat stones (diamond or waterstone).

Does anyone of you think that a DMT Diafold with freehand might work on these convex-ground knives?
 
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Sandpaper and a mouse pad, no need to wreck a superior cutting geometry.
 
mesoscopic said:
@Dag-nabit: I sharpened my PXL using a DMT DiaFold Coarse/Fine by freehand and the pictures you have shown seems to prove that my sharpening style leads to a V-edge.

I was thinking of getting a S1 or A1 but held back due to my lack of flat stones (diamond or waterstone).

Does anyone of you think that a DMT Diafold with freehand might work on these convex-ground knives?
Click to expand...

I'm a fan of convex sharpening, but I honestly believe that the best way to sharpen is whatever system gives the desired results for each individual.

If you are getting satisfactory results with the DMT Diafold on your other blades, I see no reason why it wouldn't give you the same results on a Fallkniven, or other convex blade.

I have no hands on with the DMT Diafold, but two things to remember:
1. Fallkniven's own site recommends freehand sharpening with a diamond/ceramic stone or rod system.
2: When freehand sharpening it is impossible to hold an exact angle every pass, so you inadvertently create somewhat of a convex edge anyway.

So the short answer is yes, I think it would work just fine on an A1 or S1 if it is working well for you already.

I will put in a bit of a plug for convex sharpening. Sandpaper is cheap. It costs very little to pick up a sampling of grits from about 220 through to 1200 (even going just to 600 will give good results). then use a mousepad, or lay a piece on a leather strop, and give convex sharpening a try. I found it very easy to learn, and even if it doesn't pan out, it hasn't cost a bunch to try it.

Kevin
 
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Mrbladedude said:
Anyone have pics of a V edge Fallkniven f1?
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The V that I put on it is so small, I can't get it in a picture. That will change through years with many sharpenings, but my F1 looks pretty much stock after about 6 sharpenings.
 
Mrbladedude said:
Just curious. Im thinking about doing this. Would it have less edge retention? Would it still slice through wood like butter?

Am i better off leaving it convex? I have an edge pro apex and i cant seem to get good at convex sharpening. I can sharpen V grinds to a razor blade.
Click to expand...

Whether your knife will cut better or worse all depends on what angle you sharpen at. A thick edge will be tough and a thin one will be weaker. The thin edge cuts better, the thick edge, well, you get the picture.

If you're not worried about massive blunt trauma (such as smacking your knife into a rock with a full force chopping swing), you can thin the blade out and give it a micro bevel, which gives a very usable edge, but keeps the overall profile very thin. This is IMO the ideal EDC blade profile.
 
Dag-nabit said:
I will put in a bit of a plug for convex sharpening. Sandpaper is cheap. It costs very little to pick up a sampling of grits from about 220 through to 1200 (even going just to 600 will give good results). then use a mousepad, or lay a piece on a leather stop, and give convex sharpening a try. I found it very easy to learn, and even if it doesn't pan out, it hasn't cost a bunch to try it.

Kevin
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+1 :thumbup:

I've been very pleasantly surprised at how easy it is, and the quality of the edge produced, using sandpaper on leather (on wood backing). And once it's convex, it's VERY easy to touch up using the same convexing technique, with some fine grit sandpaper and/or stropping (which, as a bonus, is also the same exact technique).

I'm quickly learning to love this technique.
 
The only decent sandpaper that I can find in a nearby hardware store is the 3M brand with grits varying from 80 to 220 (can't remember the exact grits).

220 is more for "repairing" fairly worn edges or so I think.

Couldn't find sandpapers in 600 or higher.

DMT Fine is 600 mesh (25 micron) which I have for now.

A sheet of 3M sandpaper costs around 1.80 SGD (1.38 USD approx) not sure how much sandpaper is needed or how long one sheet will last.

Thanks for the replies anyway. :D
 
^ go to any auto store, they will have grits from 220 to 2000- many sell them by the single sheet, sometimes you can get combo packs that have several grits
 
I put a bevel on mine, because I couldn't get the hang of convex sharpening for some reason. Now that I'm better at convexing, I'm planning on putting the convex back on it. It still takes an amazing edge with the bevel, I just think the convex is more durable.
 
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