the family who owns the rights to the cumbus design in turkey initially designed it to be capable of having interchangeable necks. most notably is the ability to effectively turn a plucked instrument into a bowed instrument by changing out the flat fingerboard-ed neck for a radiused neck and bridge.
the really unfortunate part about that design is that they are located in turkey, so it doesn't do anything for those of us in the u.s.

... If I had a shop theres a lot of stuff I'd do with it though, just making necks and probably selling them for a small profit to the cumbus market.
violins are classically designed to be fretless, but there are several examples of standard violins having been made with frets in the 1800's and earlier. there are some variations that are meant to be fretted, like the viola de gamba (a 7 string fretted cello). The viola de gamba uses gut string for its frets I think? pretty much fishing line
sooo, my fretters got here... and they are definitely interesting. I expected a piece of nylon that was thick enough to maintain a rounded form, almost like a thin shaving off the top of another fretboard.
in reality, it is a sheet of double sided sticky contact paper that has either brass wire, or fishing line laid on top of it, with a sheet of one sided clear plastic tape laid on top of the frets to keep them in place.
I would advise that if anyone orders one for their violin that they give measurements to the maker even if you have a standard sized violin. my standard 4/4 cremona sv175 violin has a fretboard that is noticably to big for the fretters that were sent to me.
The way that the fret position is determined is by the length of vibrating string. if you know the length of vibrating string, you can mathematically determine how much distance is required to create a specific note, given a specific string thickness. so technically it really would not be hard at all to make one of these yourself, I just don't know anything about resonance to be able to functionally make one. I could probably just mark the fingerboard before frets were applied and use those distances for the bras wire, but ya. thats a lot of work.
While they are not as nice as I had though, they are definitely funcitonal. you have to mess with your bridge position in order to get the scale to match the fret so that the 7th fret = your next string *the g string's 7th fret = d*, but I was able to get mine to be accurate.
I'll have pics up by the end of the night
