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Anyone finds that the convex grind glides over wood and not dig in?

Yes, that seems to be the case, especially with thick blades. It varies with the grind.
 
Just like with sharpening a convex edge, you need to start your cut in at a higher angle then with a flat or scandi. As the edge bites in, lower the spine and push into the wood. if the angle is too low, it will slide more then bite.
Scott
 
Scott is right: I simply start at a little steeper angle. No big problem.

DancesWithKnives
 
DWK2 said:
Scott is right: I simply start at a little steeper angle. No big problem.

DancesWithKnives
Click to expand...

That's all there is to it. I like my Bravo-1 just fine. But if you're used to a Mora, it takes some getting used to the new technique.
 
Gossman Knives said:
Just like with sharpening a convex edge, you need to start your cut in at a higher angle then with a flat or scandi. As the edge bites in, lower the spine and push into the wood. if the angle is too low, it will slide more then bite.
Scott
Click to expand...


What Scott said. Use a slightly more obtuse angle. :thumbup:
 
That's pretty much the reason I put a scandi grind at the base of my machetes. I find I have much more control. That scandi edge does not hold up to impacts though, especially in the softer steel of a machete blade. The convex bites much deeper and holds up far better under repeated impacts.

I just reprofiled my Air Force Survival knife to a very sharp convex but the blade is still too thick and I need to take it down another level. I'm not going to make it into a scandi but lowering the angle will make it easier to work with. Mac
 
If you have a grind that is too steep - I think it will skip - I think if you profile your blade properly - it will be just as hungry as your scandi's.

I think when a scandi edge is made with poor craft, it will be tougher to use.

Walt Davis and I have been talking convex edge for some time - and I think I am learning a lot about the trade off between lazer beam sharp, with a weak edge, and very sharp and a much stronger edge.

TF
 
Its ALL in the edge geometry. A properly executed covex is a dream to work with in the field. That said, there are specific blade geometries for specific tasks. Most folks prefer a flat (0-grind, scandi) for woodworking/carving. Just like the broad in the video.


Rick
 
I' got past the skipping over pretty quick and on to biting a little too deep some times when using a planing motion. I can make them as thin as I like by using a drawing motion...I'm still working on it as a whole though.
 
It took all of 2 seconds for me to realize that I needed to stop watching those video's.

The edge grind plays a small part if the user knows what they are doing.


Convex and 3/16 thick, no problems here.
Camper059.jpg
 
I have generally used thin blades with flat grinds. That is what I'm used to. So when I've had other thicker knives or maybe knives with a convex edge it can feel a bit strange and less under control for me.

Having the blade more in line with the cut I'm making suits my way of looking at things. Thus I prefer the thin blade with the flat grind for carving.

Regards.... Coote
 
I use convex edges and I much prefer them. They do everything I ask of them. I suppose it is just in the technique.
 
This is an example, to me, of why one knife can't generally be the best knife for all cutting tasks, even though I seem to have a subconscious quest to find this marvellous one knife :) .

My best slicer or whittler is unlikely to be my best chopper if I have a selection of blades.

Trying to sharpen a wooden pencil with a knife that isn't sharp or fairly flat ground is something that has bothered me at times. I think this is an example of the type of thing that Bushcraft was getting at.

I have never had much experience of using such a knife for woodwork, but what about those knives that get sharpened on just one side of the blade? I guess a man would need a pair of these for some jobs....one left handed, and one right handed. A knife like that could be held close to parallel with the stick you are whittling.
 
Coote.... Think of two in a stacking sheath....
 

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No reason a convex or flat grind can't cut wood as well or better than a scandi IMO.

I think the reason scandis usually have the reputation of deep cutting is most are groud at or near zero edge.

Bark River has a reputation for great cutting and they do their convex pretty zero. I've had a few Bark Rivers that had secondary convexes and some with the full convex and the full convexes cut about as good as most scandis. Most Bark River though are thicker spined than most scandis.

I tried a full flat grind that Dan Koster did down to a zero edge and it was pretty fantastic.
 
Yes Magnussen, that is precisely the grind I was talking about. Dang they look sharp.
 
Did any of you see the videos ? She talks about convex and flat, but in fact she shows step and shallow convex edge bevels. And the thin convex (Surprise :eek: ) will dig in easier then the steep one ;)
oh and she says a polished blade is better then a non- polished blade at woodcarving.
And we are mostly talking about the small blades on a stockman.

She seems to have the terminology mixed up a bit, other then that she is pretty much right :)
 
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bushcraft said:
Anyone finds that the convex grind glides over wood and not dig in?

I find it to slip easily over hard wood. I get it shaving sharp, yet it will sink in less than my full flat v grind or scandy.
Click to expand...


To a small extent, yes. That's why tools designed for working in wood have flat grind/zero edge....


Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
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