It's very common for the edge angle to be more obtuse (steeper/wider) at the tips of blades, compared to the angle further back from the tip; in fact, it's rare when they're not. It's also common for one side of the blade to be 'thicker', relative to the centerline of the blade. In other words, if you bisect the blade along an imaginary line drawn from the centerline of the spine down to the apex of the factory edge, the steel will be thicker to one side of that line, than on the other. That creates the asymmetry you see in grinding the edge bevels on each side. When taken to a full apex, the bevel will finish up wider on the 'thicker' side of the blade (because more steel has to be ground away on that side, to apex the edge), and narrower on the 'thin' side. If there's any bend or curve of the tip to the left or right, that'll also affect how the Lansky's guided hone makes contact, also creating the asymmetry in finished bevels. With a bent or curved blade, it'll curve toward the hone when grinding one side (making the angle more obtuse), and curve away from the hone when grinding the other side (making the angle more acute).
Best thing to do, when grinding the tips with the Lansky, is to just make sure you apex from both sides. Don't worry so much about the visual asymmetry when doing so, as that's just an artifact of imperfect (asymmetrical) grinding from the factory. It's very rare when a factory grind is perfectly symmetrical in thickness and grind angle to each side; in fact, I don't think I've ever seen it.
The primary grind (of the whole blade) is what the clamp is referenced to, as it's foundation. When the grind is asymmetrical in thickness or angle (or both), the reference for the clamp will be different on each side, which is the basis for the asymmetrical results in using the Lansky, most of the time.
David
