Anyone own a PHR-1 for Rockwell testing?

Outdoor Gear Dad

Outdoor Gear Dad

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Jun 1, 2019
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I can’t afford a large expensive Rockwell tester, but I would like to get more accurate than the files. I’ve seen people talks about a Chinese knock off of the Ames tester....the PHR-1. Anyone own one that can shed some light on the quality, the accuracy, and if you think it’s worth the $600. Also see there is a PHR-2....anyone know the difference?

thanks
 
I have an AMES model 2 and your right, the PHR looks like a direct knockoff. Although I can't say anything about the PHR, the AMES is surprisingly accurate. I have a test standard and it's bang on each time. I'm always surprised at how consistent the hardness comes out on blades when following a HT and temper recipe. Good test standards are expensive.

There is a bit of a learning curve though and a testing standard is necessary. With this design, the position of your eyes can vary the reading 1 HRC. Thats where a test standard comes in handy.

I don't know about the PHR's but they look the same and are actually really simple devices but very accurate.
 
I have a phr2. It works well. Accuracy is the same as a benchtop tester. The difference between the 1 and 2 is the width of the opening. The 1 is fine for knives. If you get a 2, you have to use the anvil extender that comes with it.
 
scott kozub said:
I have an AMES model 2 and your right, the PHR looks like a direct knockoff. Although I can't say anything about the PHR, the AMES is surprisingly accurate. I have a test standard and it's bang on each time. I'm always surprised at how consistent the hardness comes out on blades when following a HT and temper recipe. Good test standards are expensive.

There is a bit of a learning curve though and a testing standard is necessary. With this design, the position of your eyes can vary the reading 1 HRC. Thats where a test standard comes in handy.

I don't know about the PHR's but they look the same and are actually really simple devices but very accurate.
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Do these machines come with test standard steel? Or are there sets you can buy??
 
Willie71 said:
It looks like it to me. I’m happy with mine.
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Any idea where you can send them to get calibrated? I just got mine today...Seems to reading relatively close to the test blocks. Do you place the red “zero” dont on the middle of the needle or above or below?
 
Outdoor Gear Dad said:
Any idea where you can send them to get calibrated? I just got mine today...Seems to reading relatively close to the test blocks. Do you place the red “zero” dont on the middle of the needle or above or below?
Click to expand...

I use the middle of the line. Don’t move your head or you lose your reference point. I find it easier to do sitting down. I never had to have mine calibrated. It was pretty accurate when using the test blocks. I replaced the indenter once, as I was getting super high readings. It’s been fine since.
 
Willie71 said:
I use the middle of the line. Don’t move your head or you lose your reference point. I find it easier to do sitting down. I never had to have mine calibrated. It was pretty accurate when using the test blocks. I replaced the indenter once, as I was getting super high readings. It’s been fine since.
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Yeah it’s hard trying to watch the dial and then bring your test back to the reading.

Where did you buy the indenter?
 
Willie71 said:
Ebay. I had to really search for it.
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I’ve noticed mine is reading a point or two low. If I adjust my dial to start a point or two low it’s on the money, but I shouldn’t have to do that being brand new. I’m also wondering if there is some technique too it that I am missing. Should I be checking it against the test block before each real test?
 
Outdoor Gear Dad said:
I’ve noticed mine is reading a point or two low. If I adjust my dial to start a point or two low it’s on the money, but I shouldn’t have to do that being brand new. I’m also wondering if there is some technique too it that I am missing. Should I be checking it against the test block before each real test?
Click to expand...

I don’t think there is a need to test against the block each time. I just set the dial to where it is zeroed, and mine has been pretty accurate.
 
You might be able to calibrate it. With my ames I can loosen the screw on the back of the dial. You then rotate the dial so the plunger contacts the metal arm at a different point. This moves it closer to or further from the fulcrum and may adjust the reading a point or two. See if you can get it to match your test std but as long as your readings are consistent it doesn't really matter. You should also be able to turn the plunger (its threaded) to adjust where the needle sits. You're not risking any damage by doing any of this and it's an easy thing to try. As noted above, I clamp mine in a vice to do the test. Also make sure the blade isn't resting against the arm when testing. Once at the miner load I rotate the blade to ensure it's only contacting the anvil and diamond.
Outdoor Gear Dad said:
I’ve noticed mine is reading a point or two low. If I adjust my dial to start a point or two low it’s on the money, but I shouldn’t have to do that being brand new. I’m also wondering if there is some technique too it that I am missing. Should I be checking it against the test block before each real test?
Click to expand...
 
scott kozub said:
I have an AMES model 2 and your right, the PHR looks like a direct knockoff. Although I can't say anything about the PHR, the AMES is surprisingly accurate. I have a test standard and it's bang on each time. I'm always surprised at how consistent the hardness comes out on blades when following a HT and temper recipe. Good test standards are expensive.

There is a bit of a learning curve though and a testing standard is necessary. With this design, the position of your eyes can vary the reading 1 HRC. Thats where a test standard comes in handy.

I don't know about the PHR's but they look the same and are actually really simple devices but very accurate.
Click to expand...
I just bought an ames model 2 from ebay , inspired by it's great reputation and good words by people like you😉. May I ask what do you use as a bench stand? PHR-2/PHR-1 have a similar stand which has socket for a 1" handle. Is your ames handle 1" thick? (My ames is still on the way). Thank you so much🙏
 
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