Anyone re grind an Adamas 275?

Joined
Feb 28, 2007
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Got my Adamas used and the edge was in pretty terrible shape. I played with it for a while on my sharpmaker, but it wasn't aggressive enough. Thinking about sending it off and having it reprofiled. It's a thick piece of D2, I would think a fairly aggressive grind could be applied and it would still hold an edge.

What are your guys' experiences?
 
My 275 came from the factory seriously shaving sharp, with an uneven 30° back bevel by eye, but an even 30° apex according to a sharpie. Not knowing what grits came with a Sharpmaker, I happily sharpened away with the medium and fine stones and levy pants stropping, and while I could get it plenty sharp, I never matched the factory using the technique given in the instruction video. I then bought a pair of ultra fine Sharpmaker stones, which turned out to be so fine, as to have been reported as a good alternative to a 16,000 grit strop for straight razors! At that point the 275 was better, plenty sharp, so I used it. One of the boys took a shine to the Adamas and used it for much rougher stuff than I: rock hounding, bamboo, tree limb removal, etc :-) I now use 320 and 400 wet and dry sand paper held on the Sharpmaker stones with bull clips to iron out the edge b4 going to medium. (I should say that I told my son that the 275 could be used to make a fire pit if need be which was his rationale for digging up some cool stones)
Sal is reported as stating the following: "both our diamonds and CBN are 400 mesh, or ~40 micron." and
"mediums, 12-14 microns, 800-900 grit, fines, 7-9 microns, 2000-3000 grit, ultrafines, 3-4 microns, 4000-6000 grit."
 
You know HotRodColt - Grinding is something I am interested in for a benchmade 810-1401, in the 710 form factor, but with the thicker m390. My 710s are too small for my hands so I was thinking of finding someone to take an 810-1401 re-grinding, melting, adding a stand off, and gimping like the 275.
 
Josh from Razor Edge Knives does regrinds. These photos are of someone else's 810 that I shamelessly stole for future reference, my apologies for not remembering who was the "donor".

 
Thank you for Josh's reference! I looked everywhere for the website that that picture came from and couldn't find it. In that state of fail, I second-guessed all these pictures I'd saved of that 810, thinking they were different model. duh… I think I'll add Josh's contact as I do not intend to build the toolset to do what I want to do with an 810–1401 unless one of the kids or the grandkids expresses passion to work in metal.
 
Something like this not only cuts a ton better, but also is SUPER easy to maintain on something like the sharpmaker ;)

As far as the 810, that pic was mine, no worries if you post it up or use it. It and others can be found on my google + account

IMG_20160128_011938-X2.jpg
 
Because of this extreme abuse and use testing done by vininull, Project Hard Use knife testing by vininull
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...h5LlU/edit?pageId=115268730612377129025#gid=0
I am thinking an extra standoff will help the 810–1401 approach more closely the potential of that form factor; maybe bigger standoffs and screws as well…
Applying re-grinds as part of a modifications punch list could include user fit custom grips if you could use something like air dried clays or other material as a standard gauge for a specific users hand or gloved hand.

I know folks jump all over extreme abuse testing with claims that, it seems to me, speak to 20th century arguments. I personally take comfort in tools that are proven in the crucible like evolving classic mill specs following the work of inventors and creators. The 44 Russian becoming the 44 special and then the 44 Magnum comes immediately to mind as a 19th thru 20th century progression; as Brownings AND 1911's spawned 10mm.
MIPS, energy and storage along with composites, steels, and LEDs emerge with 21st century definitions and new applications. Sorry got carried away...
 
I knocked the shoulders off, convexed the edge bevel by hand on wet and dry paper then waterstones. Sold it on recently but I'll see about digging out some pics. Was as sharp as I could get it without thinning the blade out on a grinder.

Came decently sharp for a factory edge, but there was room for improvement.
 
The 275 Adamad needs a satin or stonewashed finished blade version.
 
The 275 Adamad needs a satin or stonewashed finished blade version.
Yeah been saying this for awhile. Heavy Ritter type stonewash with 20CV blade and gray G10 with maybe orange backspacer or accents in the spine area of the G10. Would be hard to resist.
 
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