Anyone sharpened their 25?

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Jun 13, 2007
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Curious to know what angle you use.

Anyone use an Edge Pro? What grit do you go to? Any tips? I'm thinking about trying a 120 grit followed by 1500 grit ceramic. Works absolutely fabulously on my m4 Contego.

I've only sharpened a 21, but I've read that the S35VN *might* be a tad harder on the 25. Anyone find that to be the case? Not looking for a debate here...

Thanks for any tips/advice/opinions, as always. :)
 
I sharpened mine 30* per side marker on the edge pro. I held the blade on a slight angle and not on that small flat surface on the spine. I went to 1000 grit and have had good results. I haven't gotten hair popping sharp, but sharp enough for my liking.
 
I have an EP as well. I run 24 per side. For my 21's I go to 320, then use the EP ceramic rod very gently. Gives a pretty toothy edge that works for me. I sometimes also strop after that, but not always.

I can touch up the edge on the ceramic rod several times between using the EP. This approach works well on all my knives.
 
Man, you guys put some crazy obtuse edges on your knives. I was thinking 15° per side.

I do 15 degrees per side maximum on my knives. I freehand though, but I cant see why S35VN would give you trouble. Do the same as you do on the Contego and let us know how it works for you.
 
I put 15 DPS and works great for me. I don't know about S30V, but I'm really digging this S35VN. Used it on thick cardboard and rope cut testing...no problems.
 
Mine was actually pretty dull out of the box. Would not shave hair on my arm or slice paper. I touched it up on my sharpmaker that I use for ALL my knives. I used the 40 degree setting which is 20 degrees per side with the ultra fine stones and it was razor sharp. I did the sharpie trick and the ceramic rods were hitting right where they are supposed too. So like all my other CRK, its the 40 degree setting like always on the sharpmaker.
 
I free hand sharpen, probably about 15 DPS. I normally finish with a well broken in DMT extra fine. Sometimes I take it to a Hard Arkansas or strop.
 
On my 21 I go about 17 per on the EP and leave it nice and toothy with the 220, and for touch ups I just use the grey compound from BRKT on a strop and it keeps it toothy..
 
I freehand sharpened mine today. Other than that just running it over the strop. As far as my dps I'm pretty sure I'm sticking with the 40 inclusive. But I'm new to free hand so.... It is dang sharp though! And still learning. What were you going to sharpen it on?
 
I freehand sharpened it at about 18-20 per side, works good for me but it depends on what you are planning on using it on as far as material.
 
17 deg each side on the wicked edge---grits-100,200,400,600,800,1000,1200,1600 and then stropped with 5, 3.5, 1, .5 micron pasted leather strops

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It will br more then stable at 15 dps. I normally sharpen to 10-12 dps and all steels have been stable at that. I have only experienced one steel stable at 5dps and thatis really pushing a knife steel.

IMO a knife edge above15 is a waste as that approaches axe edge angles.
 
It will br more then stable at 15 dps. I normally sharpen to 10-12 dps and all steels have been stable at that. I have only experienced one steel stable at 5dps and thatis really pushing a knife steel.

IMO a knife edge above15 is a waste as that approaches axe edge angles.

That's pretty much my experience. I almost always go below 15dps, but with some of the angles I'm seeing here it's got me concerned about this knife. I've sharpened plenty of knives, but haven't done a lot of microbevels. I guess if I go 12dps and it rolls in can practice the microbevel. Shouldn't be hard with a guided system anyway.
 
30 degrees inclusive is the widest I go on modern steels.

I also have a folder in M4 and take it to 20 degrees inclusive at 400 grit, so far the edge has been stable.

If a knife is going into a hard work construction setting, that's the only time I go over 30 degrees, the thickest I'll do is 48.
 
30 degrees inclusive is the widest I go on modern steels.

I also have a folder in M4 and take it to 20 degrees inclusive at 400 grit, so far the edge has been stable.

If a knife is going into a hard work construction setting, that's the only time I go over 30 degrees, the thickest I'll do is 48.

At 10 dps M4 is good. Dont go to 5 dps.

I have been decreasing the edge angle on my Gayle Bradley using the shoulders as a guide.

Finally finished with it and the edge is around 5 Degrees Per Side (DPS). Finished it up on a Spyderco UF stone.

The edge was shaving sharp in both directions and felt very crisp to the touch.

Mandatory glamour shots.

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I went ahead and did some woodwork. This piece has been dried out for some time so it was nice and hard.

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Results where....well interesting to say the least. Significant edge deformation in terms of chipping.

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Sharpened to 10-12 DPS.

[video=youtube;qzzzrcaEQE4]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qzzzrcaEQE4[/video]

There remained a small chip:

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Rerun of the test on the same piece of wood, focusing on an area with a small knot. Did not experience the same deformation.

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What can I conclude:

Nothing much, this is just an fyi for those that might have wondered how CPM-M4 might perform at this low angle.

Just as a disclaimer. I have some drastic views about edge performance.....My maximum is 15 dps. For everything and if you want to see what I tend to put my knives through search youtube for mwvanwyk
 
I'm not cautious with my blades, too experienced with sharpening, too much time to sharpen and experience regrinding.

I say modern with ats-34/154cm as my standard for 30 degrees inclusive, there are a lot if steels I haven't sharpened yet, they all 'melt' under my stones, I went to about 14 degrees inclusive on my 950-1201, with moderate work (cutting a mild steel cable) it chipped out impressively.
 
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