Anyone still using Locktite Speedbonder?

M

Maelstrom78

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Sep 21, 2013
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I was thinking of ordering some of the Speedbonder 325 or 326 for use on gluing scales to liners and using it to glue spacers to bolsters (both metal and micarta/G10). The threads I found were positive on it but they were old threads from several years ago.

It would help me get the handles ready faster as I wouldn't have to wait for the G-flex to cure for the bolsters, then the liners/spacers then finally the scales/pins/tubes. Not that I am in all that much of a rush, and if the product will be more robust with waiting for the G-Flex I'm fine with that but I can only get in the shop now and again through the week so it would be nice to move things along a bit faster.

Thanks!
 
I use epoxy on fixed blades and use Speedbonder 326 on slipjoints.
Also I don't use pins on fixed blades. I use corbys , belt and suspenders type guy.
 
Lot of slipjoint makers still use it, and I know of at least one big production outfit with insane warranties that use it on all of the many many knives they produce.


Seems to be a better bet than 5 minute epoxy. I plan to start using it on pocket knives myself.
 
I use the 326 for attaching scales and bolsters to spacer material on folders and fixed blades and the gflex for attaching the handles to the blade mainly because you have to work faster than I do lining up handles and pin holes with the 326. I had to scrap a handle once that tried to set with 326 to the blade because I was not able to get everything lined up and clamped before it set and could not get it off with out destroying it.
 
I use it for liners and then use G-flex when I pin the scales on. If I use Loveless or Corby bolts then I use the heavy duty 5 minute Loctite. I have never had a knife returned for separation in six years and hundreds of knives. I know a few professionals who use the five minute stuff on everything and they swear by it. Now that I have G-flex I try to use it every time unless I'm in a hurry but for liners and spacers I will use faster epoxy. Just my opinion. Larry Lehman
 
Without getting into specifics. . . .I have researched a lot of bonding agents for non-knife making applications which are very heat and lamination/peel strength dependent. IMO Speedbonder 325 is a superior choices to standard Cyanoacrylates. I have no experience with Speedbonder 326.

Yet, I still feel that high quality epoxy is best suited for bonding handle scales.

I' will occasionally use 325 or (but mostly cyanoacrolates) for bonding spacers between a guard and handle scale where I fear that pinning the spacers to the the thin scale material will initiate cracking.

In the end, if you can pin, and bond all connections between materials, then it will be more durable.

Usually, I only use gflex.

Mike L.
 
Is there any kind of primer, activator, or catalyst needed for Speedbonder 326 or 325?

Has anyone compared 326 to 325? If so, what is the difference and which is better suited for knifemaking?
 
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I snagged up a bottle of 326 at today's ICCE show. The instructions on the back says to apply 7649 primer prior to using it. Is that absolutely needed?
 
The 7649 is the activator. It is needed to activate the adhesive. Speedbonder 325 and 326 are two-part adhesives.

Edited my original reply: It was not technically correct.
 
Here's the Technical Data Sheet for Speedbonder 326. As you mentioned, the directions call for the use of 7649 activator.

http://tds.henkel.com/tds5/docs/AA%20326-EN.PDF

You should be able to purchase this through Grainger, MSC, McMaster Carr, or a large number of other sources.

In any case, I think you will be amazed by the holding strength of this. I think I've mentioned on this forum before that I used to bond a quarter to the pavement outside of my home in the street about twice a year with Speedbonder 325. It would take that long before someone became industrious and determined enough to break it free.
 
Lol I might do the same.

I just got a 4.5oz bottle of the primer on eBay for $21. Between that and the $15-$20 for the 326, this stuff ain't cheap.
 
Continue to use good epoxies such as West Systems for bonding your handle scales, and reserve the Speedbonder for guard spacers with delicate handle materials, and other difficult situations where you'd like to avoid the use of very small pins. . . . IMO.

Mike L.
 
logem said:
Continue to use good epoxies such as West Systems for bonding your handle scales, and reserve the Speedbonder for guard spacers with delicate handle materials, and other difficult situations where you'd like to avoid the use of very small pins. . . . IMO.

Mike L.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Logem.

I've heard of guys(some very reputable) using superglue to attach spacers to handle scales. I thought I might try using this stuff for that if I'm in a hurry to get the handle together. I'm thinking it'll be stronger than regular super glue.
 
I've been using 325 on Micarta scales and even scale pins. I glue one scale at a time, drill the holes, then glue the other scale, then drill it's holes. Next I put the 325 inside the holes using a toothpick and spray activator on the pins. Seems to be way plenty strong enough.

BTW: when the instructions with the activator say to wait a certain number of minutes after spraying the activator before putting the two parts together they aren't kidding. If you don't wait as the instructions say, the activator doesn't seem to activate the 325.
 
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Picked up some 326 and activator at ICCE from K&G also. Plan to start using this on my slipjoints, as 5 minute epoxy IMO isn't adequate and can be messy to clean up, and I don't typically want to wait for acraglas to cure, and in my experience, sometimes you'll get it cleaned up, and come back hours later to find some more squeezed out and cured on the outside of the liner/scale. I'll post back with my experiences.


From what I understand about these anaerobic adhesives, they only cure in the absence of oxygen, so any that squeezes out the sides will be pretty easy to wipe away? That's a big advantage to me, plus the fast cure time works with my construction methods, where every component is typically finished by the time I glue the scales on, and I'm ready to pin together a finished folder at that point.
 
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